Step by step porting

[little possum]

I may be over thinking

Is that were the bevel goes? Or do you continue it all the way around the port?

And do you widen all the way out to the edge of the port? Like where the exhaust gasket goes?

 

[rms61moparman]

I take mine all the way around.
More to make sure I don't leave a sharp burr that would score a piston than for its functionality.
Yes widen the port all the way out, as long as you have bolt hole clearance and adequate mating surface.


Mike

 

[little possum]

Thanks Mike

 

[Rounder]

Zach, if you feel using a degree wheel etc is too daunting for the moment, just do your widening and transfers. You can always go back in.

+1, that's how I started to learn. Just like a hair cut, you can always take more later if ya don't like it. Good thread - Sam

 

[WVshooter]

Seems as good a place as any to ask this. When you port, are there not any concerns of the cylinder coating chipping off where you've removed some of it at the port edges?

 

[AUSSIE1]

Seems as good a place as any to ask this. When you port, are there not any concerns of the cylinder coating chipping off where you've removed some of it at the port edges?

You won't have a problem with the OEM's as the adhesion is excellent. I haven't had a problem with the BB kit's except for one which Bailey's promptly replaced.

 

[PLMCRZY]

So whats the latest on it?

 

[Diesel Pro]

I go 70% on the curve if the skirt will allow.


Mike

Now that is an interesting statement that brings up a question:

Do you measure the port straight across like you measure the bore, or do you measure "on the curve" as the statement quoted suggests?

 

[blsnelling]

I measure straight across. That's considered the max for a work saw.

 

[nmurph]

:agree2::agree2: it's called chord width.

 

[Diesel Pro]

Thanks for the clarification guys. This is what I have gone by as well just wanted to make sure.

 

[blsnelling]

Not everyone does it the same. If you want to be a little more conservative measure along the curve, or go with 65%.

 

[Diesel Pro]

My 359 is running fine at about 72% and the JB weld is holding where I got carried away, but I did buy a new takeoff P&C so I can keep at the ready. I'm looking to go back into the 372 and 359 with a degree wheel as well as work the inlet to the carb and check the intake boot to cylinder match. I'm doing a 357 right now and am running the ports closer to 65% as it is not mine. Things are going well, but I'm waiting for Snappy to drop off a pencil grinder so I can run the tiny tools and get the corners more square as well as dig up into the transfers a bit.

A buddy landed 14 cord of oak so I should be able to do some sawing although the plan is to saw rig most of it.

 

[blsnelling]

You have JB Weld in the exhaust port, and it's holding up to the heat?

 

[Diesel Pro]

Yes i do and yes it is. This is NOT my standard MO, I just patched it and ran it to see what it does. I did extrude the JB through the perforation so it is inside and out. It's rated to 600°f so we'll see how it does.

Again, this is not how I do things and I consider this crude. Actually I call it "guarranteed experimental" and so far so good. I hope to find some solid wood to get into and run it hard.

 

[blsnelling]

I'm not knocking you. It was either that or trash it. That's some amazing stuff.

 

[Diesel Pro]

I'm actually quite curious to see how it holds up. Heat is one thing, but heat and vibration...

My only fear is flake off and having a chunk come back on reversion in the exhaust port.

 

[blsnelling]

I'm actually quite curious to see how it holds up. Heat is one thing, but heat and vibration...

My only fear is flake off and having a chunk come back on reversion in the exhaust port.

The good thing is that all you wold really loose is the piston, and they're not expensive. The cylinder's already compromised, and you've made plans to replace it if need be. It's a good test.

 

[AUSSIE1]

Yes i do and yes it is. This is NOT my standard MO, I just patched it and ran it to see what it does. I did extrude the JB through the perforation so it is inside and out. It's rated to 600°f so we'll see how it does.

Again, this is not how I do things and I consider this crude. Actually I call it "guarranteed experimental" and so far so good. I hope to find some solid wood to get into and run it hard.

What is a "takeoff" P&C? Aftermarket?

Good to see you were able to salvage it.

This is why I suggested earlier an aftermarket kit to play with. As you gain experience and discover things that work, you can transfer that over to the OEM if you wish.

 

[torence 20]

this may be a stupid question, but can any saw be ported?