Stihl 036 pro

[s4fitz]

Pictures

Finally here are some pictures of the saw.
1) I have noticed that the oiler is just spewing bar and chain oil. I let it sit on for the night on the table and it left me a nice surprise when i came out to work on it.
2) When i got the jug off i only saw the scoring on the exhaust side of the cylinder and piston. the scoring does not look to be severe so i am hoping that the acid will take care of that.
3) The crank allows the rod to move back and forth. I will post pictures on the post below to show you.
4) I know i am a newb so be easy on me, the impulse line runs from the carb to the crank case? if so the line looked fairly new and in good shape.

 

[s4fitz]

more pictures

 

[s4fitz]

View attachment 264354
View attachment 264355

 

[kr5258]

Looks like you're missing the tank vent cap:

See attached for info as to which cap you need:

 

[watsonr]

Needs a piston and rings. Clean up the cylinder and do a pressure/vacuum test. Side to side is ok, up/down is bad and so is sticking, like it spins and then stick, spins and sticks. Purple power and a garden hose with a nozzle will clean it really good, HP air to dry it off and WD-40 on the bearings right away to displace the water. Put it back together and you'll have a good saw.

Take your time and do the pressure/vacuum test before you run it.

 

[s4fitz]

Needs a piston and rings. Clean up the cylinder and do a pressure/vacuum test. Side to side is ok, up/down is bad and so is sticking, like it spins and then stick, spins and sticks. Purple power and a garden hose with a nozzle will clean it really good, HP air to dry it off and WD-40 on the bearings right away to displace the water. Put it back together and you'll have a good saw.

Take your time and do the pressure/vacuum test before you run it.

The cylinder is toast i gave it the acid scotch brite treatment and i discovered some pitting inside.

My dilemma is do i go ahead to do the crank bearings and the case seals? I ask because i do not want to put it back together and have to rebuild it again (which i wont really mind but my wallet will) or should i just do the piston and cylinder?

Also is the meteor kit that much better? I seen some c/p kits for 90 and then the meteor kit goes for 150. just looking for some direction here.

 

[s4fitz]

Bump, anyone?

 

[watsonr]

If the bearings are good, then don't bother. Clean it up good. Is the pitting above the exhaust port or below? If its above, then a new cylinder for sure, below shouldn't hurt it unless there big holes. I have a bunch that have that.

A meteor is better than some of the lesser expensive kits. Cheap kits may have a little less compression, slightly different timing and you get what you pay for... OEM, Meteor, cheap, in that order.

Buy an OEM cylinder on Ebay or ask in the swap meet thread and get a Meteor piston..... or buy the Meteor kit and be done with it.

 

[kr5258]

I usually do a vac/pressure test before tear down, lets you know where you stand. You can re-install just the jug and do the test. Best to know where the problem actually is before lunching new parts.

I'm surprised the cylinder didn't clean up, it doesn't look bad at all in the pics. You will need patience to clean it up good.

Best to use the OEM cylinder. Meteor makes a good piston.

 

[watsonr]

I usually do a vac/pressure test before tear down, lets you know where you stand. You can re-install just the jug and do the test. Best to know where the problem actually is before lunching new parts.

I'm surprised the cylinder didn't clean up, it doesn't look bad at all in the pics. You will need patience to clean it up good.

Best to use the OEM cylinder. Meteor makes a good piston.

And a great cylinder... maybe you should have a look again. Mastermind did a thread on a 372 jug from them and gave rave reviews... he now sells them, if that tells you anything. They may be even better than OEM quality in both the piston and jug... they are that good.

 

[Woody912]

Exact same situation, had to replace crank bearing last spring and then had maybe 4 gallons of gas thru it . Coincided with a short in the saw, piston was heavily scored and compression was 75 psi. Poured all my gas in a glass jar and nothing has settled out of it so I am pretty puzzled as to cause. Bought a used saw today but gonna look at the Meteor piston pretty hard, dealer wanted almost $300 for OEM piston/cylinder assembly. Never torn down a saw before but I think it is time to learn!

 

[s4fitz]

Well it's been busy over the holidays but I put the saw back together with a new cylinder and piston kit. I did not the meteor kit (just didn't have the much money at the time) I put it back together and did a compression test and was only getting 75-80 psi but it was holding. I'm not to sure why, i haven't had a lot of time to devote to this but I will be making a more detailed post in the next few days.

 

[Oldsawnut]

Well did you ever get it running right?

 

[s4fitz]

Towards the end of winter i got busy with snow plowing and getting ready for the spring, I put gas in it gave it a pull and it started to spew gas from somewhere out of the carb i thing it needs a rebuild. Also it needs the gas tank ventilator which i can not find for it. hopefully some more luck to come soon when all the spring clean ups are done.