Did it act like mine? Run great at wide open throttle and then die at idle?
Stihl 064 AV ?
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Did it act like mine? Run great at wide open throttle and then die at idle?
Is there ANY play in the crank bearings? I've seen the plastic cages in these break up, allowing the balls to collect on one side. I've also seen the PTO side bearing spin in the case. Does this one have the CDIC "Red Light" coil? They're known to have issues as well. The 064 with CDIC won't have the actual light, but have the rev limited ignition.
Bearings where in great shape no play at all. Not for sure on the coil.
Pull the coil and at least make sure the key is good. Do you have a spare coil or 440/460 to borrow one from? Post a pic of the coil.
Leave the idle at 2800 and play with the L screw till it stops crapping out on you. You don't want to go back and forth with the idle screw - it shouldn't be your primary tweaking screw. That's what the L screw is for. That's the one that should be tweaked first and most often. Once you get that dialed-in, theeeeeeen you can set your idle appropriately and leave idle alone. I don't think you have any more leaks, you just need to learn that carb. Like a woman, every saw runs a little differently. That's why the best we can do is give you an 80% tuning solution. The remaining 20% is case-specific. Keep at it and you'll learn what she wants. Just get the L screw 100% done before you start messing with idle.
Half choke, as you call it, is not near full throttle. It only holds the throttle open a little, but is often more than it needs to be on most Stihls.
"Half choke" was OP's terminology, not mine.
Holds the throttle open, right. My bad on the WOT. The idea still holds though. Just wanted to point out it wasn't a second choke position. Thanks for catching it. I'd go back and edit, but it won't give me the option since the post was quoted. Oh well.
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I thought you might be talking about a dealer in my area. D&D is a pretty good drive from me.
Yes, where the surface of the carb base touches the boot. That's an area that has leaked on a few of my Stihls, even with the bolts nice and tight. I used a little Blue Silicone on the base and a little on the nozzle where the pulse hose goes onto. Be careful not to use too much, you don't want to plug anything.
There are many Stihl coils that will work on the 064. An 066 is not one of them.
spindrift7mm
Changing the World One Saw at a time !
Do yourself a favor and pressure/vac test ! 064/early 066 have issues with clutch side brg spining the insert loose as Brad noted ,it aint easy to find without a pressure test and you'll chase your tail with hit and miss guessing. Sad thing is most spun bearings/inserts arent repairable you'll need a new case . Good Luck Ken
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AKDriveSprocket
ArboristSite Guru
It was really hard to start, but when it started it ran OK wide open. I had a cracked air cover and when I tighten it, it held the choke close and was flooding the saw. When a saw don`t run right at idle I do the pressure and vac test. And sure enough the crank seals were out. Did you lube the seals when you put them in?
Make sure you have a large enough fuel filter in it and check the screen on the muffler and make sure it is clean. Sounded like a fuel line was collapsing but you put a new one in so that should be good. Also check the tank vent left of the carb.
There is also a bearing under the piston to check. You never said you done a pressure and vac test. Did you do that? Even a new seal will leak if is put in wrong or not put in deep enough. How did you pull the seals? If you damaged the crank when pulling them, it will eat up that seal sooner or later.
When I put the fly wheel back on I make sure the key is ok and clean the wheel and crank with rubbing alcohol. Did the fly wheel have two slots for the key? If so make sure your in the right one. I`m not sure which one it would be if there was two. Did you just get this saw? If so the guy before you could have put the key in the wrong slot. Keep us posted.
bluestripes
ArboristSite Operative
If your flywheel has two slots switch it and see what happens. Mine runs in either slot but wont idle worth a hoot in the one but will run great wide open. Good luck!
Seals where lubed with 2-stroke oil when installed and i just got back from the auto parts store with all the parts to make a pressure and vac tester. Im heading out now to put the tester together and check the seals. When i pulled the old ones i used a small pic and tiny screwdriver making sure not to damage anything other than the seal. The flywheel does have the two slots so if the seals check out good i will try moving the flywheel. Yes i just got the saw. The saw had a missing cylinder bolt and was running crazy from sucking air around the cylinder. Thought it was going to be an easy fix.
AKDriveSprocket
ArboristSite Guru
You got to test the whole saw not just the seals. And turn the crank under test. What did you find out about the coil?
Would not hold vac. so i put about 5 pounds of air to it and the flywheel side crank seal is leaking. Put some soapy water on it and you can see the leak around the bottom side of the seal. I also did the same thing and check the clutch side, it was fine. Any quick fix or pull the seal and replace?
Seals where lubed with 2-stroke oil when installed and i just got back from the auto parts store with all the parts to make a pressure and vac tester. Im heading out now to put the tester together and check the seals. When i pulled the old ones i used a small pic and tiny screwdriver making sure not to damage anything other than the seal. The flywheel does have the two slots so if the seals check out good i will try moving the flywheel. Yes i just got the saw. The saw had a missing cylinder bolt and was running crazy from sucking air around the cylinder. Thought it was going to be an easy fix.
If one is P and one is X the X would be for a standard coil and the P would be for rev limited, or at least that is how it works with the 066.
View attachment 263890
Is it leaking between the seal and case? Sealant is supposed to be used. I hate to be pessimistis, but I don't think this is your problem, although it obviously needs fixed.
Flywheel is 122 400 1203
coil is 1122 1314
That looks to me as if the coil is for a 066 with a polymer flywheel.
Yes thats where its leaking. Blue permatex rtv or 1194? Did you see my reply on the coil and flywheel?
