Stihl bar stud remove tool - need recommnedation!

[dswensen]

OK, MS290 take down.

Can't get the rear bar stud out. Tried heat and the double nut method, and only suceeded in stripping both the nuts and stud threads. The threads on the stud just aren't long enough for two nuts. Put the stud in a vise, and tried to turn the saw - no joy. Now I need a stud remover tool that doesn't cost a fortune (Stihl tool is not an option).

I want one of the "socket" types that has the tightening cams in it. I read (using search) that some of you have a type that destoys the threads (no thanks), but others have found one that just leaves dimples in the threads (this is the one I want) - a thread chaser and you are good to go again.

Anyone have a favorite?

Thanks

Dan

 

[bucknfeller]

Snapon makes a nice one. But if you've already stripped two nuts on that stud, you may as well just go on and put the vise grips on that one, and replace it with a new one. Cheap fix.

 

[k5alive]

i use these little guys in a pinch. you can grab em' at wally world and they actually do work

 

[FATGUY]

get two jam nuts next time, now you're gonna have to use vise grips or some other Neanderthal type method.

 

[dswensen]

get two jam nuts next time, now you're gonna have to use vise grips or some other Neanderthal type method.

OK, help me out, apparently I'm "challenged". What's a jam nut?

I have a new stud on order. Vice grips and heat to release the thread locking compound? If yes to heat, what's the best way to apply heat? Directly to the stud with a small torch - slowly so as to not burn anything surrounding?

Do I have to remove the top half of the clamshell engine coming out to get to the inside to apply heat?

 

[cutforfun]

i have never had a bar stud that would not come out, but you might try smacking the end of the stud a few times inward to see if it helps free it up. it is going to be hard to heat the stud and not melt the plastic housing.

 

[o8f150]

i have run into the same problem,,, if all else fails i get my trusty small pipe wrench out

 

[FATGUY]

basically, it's a "thin" nut.

 

[barneyrb]

On those I usually just use two bar nuts, screw the first one all the way down, jam the second to it by holding the first one and tightening the second to it, and then remove using the nut nearest the saw. It works for me, takes very little time but the down side is if I lose the stud I have to find two new bar nuts too.....

 

[dswensen]

On those I usually just use two bar nuts, screw the first one all the way down, jam the second to it by holding the first one and tightening the second to it, and then remove using the nut nearest the saw. It works for me, takes very little time but the down side is if I lose the stud I have to find two new bar nuts too.....

Yeah, this method was "no joy" for me. The threaded portion of the stud is just too short.

 

[axlr8]

time to tack weld a long handle to the end...ehh??? give it some leverage!

 

[Patrick62]

Not a handle...

time to tack weld a long handle to the end...ehh??? give it some leverage!

Weld a 1/2" nut on there, and break out the wrench. Bonus, is that the heat of welding will help loosen it.

 

[bucknfeller]

Can't say I've ever had one that wouldn't come out. I don't use the bar nuts, they seem to strip easier than regular grade 5 nuts. Last couple times I've used serrated flange nuts, you just have to put the wrench on first. They worked really well for me. I don't know how you'd go about heating it without melting the plastic around it. I second the pipe wrench suggestion on this one. Good luck.

 

[rupedoggy]

I think that engine has an extension of aluminum from the clamshell for one of the studs. It is locktight frozen into place and a real bummer to get out. The locktite releases at 300+ degrees. That stud is probably not in plastic. Heat!

 

[TPA]

In my former life, I removed frozen sheared bolts a time or two, but not from chainsaws.

Drill a hole (about 2/3 the diameter of the stud) all the way through the stud. Apply heat, then squirt water into the hole. The theory is that the water in the hole will cool the stud and cause it to contract while the surrounding metal will remain in an expanded state. Stud comes out easily.

If the saw is magnesium, you should be mindful of how hot you get it. Simple propane torch should do.

 

[bcorradi]

IMO I found the threads to be too shallow to use the jam nut method. I used to use a craftsman stud remover that cut the threads, but you could reuse the studs if u really had to. I now use the stihl stud remover that has the tightening cams in it and it works real well. However, the craftsman stud remover will get out more stubborn bar studs than the cam style one imo.

 

[deereguy]

Ebay "8MM stud Remover" $20

 

[roostersgt]

I've had success with all but this last saw. Same problem you're experiencing. I just put the biggest vice grips to it and will have to replace the bar stud due to the threads being buggered. Never had one that didn't come off using the two bar nut method, until this last one. Thought I might be the only person. Thanks for the company.

 

[ckelp]

Ive taken a stud welded a nut to it and backed it out with the 3/8" impact

 

[Fish]

This was a big discussion a few years ago and ended up with a video from THall.

I just lock them in a vise and spin the saw counter-clockwise, as even with the best puller they
will get chewed up a little anyway, and I wouldn't try to resell them.

And I have done hundreds.

If you watch Tom's video, he does remove one with a double nut, but the threads are boogered up
as well.