Fish
Tree Freak
Here is a pic so you all can see what it looks like.
Stihl bar stud remove tool - need recommnedation!
- Thread starter dswensen
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Fish
Tree Freak
roostersgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Not quite understanding your pictures. I know what the saw looks like. Am I understanding you "lock" the bar stud in a vice, and then spin the attached saw to un-loosen the bar stud?
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
If I understand correctly & the threads on the stud are US you could try grinding/filing two flats on the stud opposite each other to be able to get a more secure grip with vise grips/ pipe wrench
roostersgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
On this build, I just wrenched the crap out of the stud with the vice grips and will have to spend a little for a new stud. First one I've ruined so far, so I guess I'm a little ahead.
TermiteBuffet
ArboristSite Guru
I've done the vice on the stud , twist the saw ,like Fish said ^^^on the last few i've done. Before all i did was get frustrated and booger it up any way . So now i booger it up to begin with and get it over with, and it comes out fairly easy with the vice method. Termite
Fish
Tree Freak
I just put up the pics for the torch guys. The heat has a way to travel to reach the threads!!!
Of course, I take off both studs, the front one first, which comes out easily, then I pinch the back stud in a big vice and really tighten it down,
then just turn the saw body to break it loose. They really glop in the loctite as you all can see.
Last edited:
dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
I tried the vise too - even took a three pound sledge to the vise handle to get it to tighten - no joy. The stud just turns in the vise. Those of you using the vise method - are you removing the front stud first to allow for vise access???
EDIT: I see Fish and I were typing at the same time. Thanks Fish.
Fish
Tree Freak
I think the quality/grip of the vice jaws can be a factor too. Yes, I remove both to aid in shipping the case.
I have found that the older the saw, like the 029s, the harder they are to tear down, they used some serious loctite back then, as well
as the engine mounting bolts.
Probably why I hated working on them so much when they first came out.
I have found that the older the saw, like the 029s, the harder they are to tear down, they used some serious loctite back then, as well
as the engine mounting bolts.
Probably why I hated working on them so much when they first came out.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
Those studs are actually very cheap. I show $4.71 retail. The factory stud puller will mash the threads, as I have just bought one in the last few months. I do not remove the pan if I can help it on a rebuild, but if I am forced to I just throw in the towel and get a new stud. I have had luck with jam nutting it, but the nuts and the stud usually get a little fouled no matter how hard you try. For $5 it is just not worth fooling with.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
And not to stir the pot, but I have to wonder if the king had previously loosened that one in the video before turning the camera on. :msp_rolleyes:
To the OP. Get a new set of vise grips with sharp jaws. NOT old raggety ones. You asked how to get it out, and this is how. NEW vise grips with brand-new fresh teeth. Put them on the side with full contact of the teeth on the shoulder part of the stud. Yes, they will hit when you turn them around, but once broken loose you can reset your grip.
To the OP. Get a new set of vise grips with sharp jaws. NOT old raggety ones. You asked how to get it out, and this is how. NEW vise grips with brand-new fresh teeth. Put them on the side with full contact of the teeth on the shoulder part of the stud. Yes, they will hit when you turn them around, but once broken loose you can reset your grip.
Fish
Tree Freak
SSShhhhh!!! With talk like that, he might come back out of retirement!!!!!!!!
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
I was hoping.
How about this.?
Demi is ugly, Elvis can't sing, Thall loves to sharpen rocked chains by the dozen, Hair gel is out of style, Wendy's number 2 is crap, Annnnd DH1984 is Thall's cousin.
That should flush him out.
And When The Threads are Gone
+1. That works when the threads are still there. A buddy and I figured out how to remove that stud when it's snapped off at the base with ordinary tools:
(1) Drill a hole straight down and and close to the center as possible about 5/16" deep. The bit diameter should be a tad less than a 25 Torx screwdriver.
(2) Pound the Torx screwdriver into the hole. It's tapered and will jam tight.
(3) Unscrew the stud. She will probably come right out.
+1. That works when the threads are still there. A buddy and I figured out how to remove that stud when it's snapped off at the base with ordinary tools:
(1) Drill a hole straight down and and close to the center as possible about 5/16" deep. The bit diameter should be a tad less than a 25 Torx screwdriver.
(2) Pound the Torx screwdriver into the hole. It's tapered and will jam tight.
(3) Unscrew the stud. She will probably come right out.
dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
Yep, I agree. New stud set on the way. I have heard some good suggestions here I will try before I try to buy a stud removing tool. NEW vice grips first (possibly saving the front stud), then off to the bench vise after removing the front stud.
Thanks to all you experts - your willingness to help a hack like me is what makes this site GREAT.
Dan
Fish
Tree Freak
I wouldn't remove the front one unless I had to....
dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
While using a vise or Vise Grips, has anyone buggerd up anyting on the saw other than the stud trying to get the stud out? In a search, I heard one guy tell of breaking off the chain adjuster by accident - it was in the way of a wrench he was leaning on and it lost the fight.
dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
One more - the studs do unscrew counter-clockwise - right?
Fish
Tree Freak
Unscrew counter clockwise. You can remove the adjuster easily, just remove the screw under the flap.
