Stihl bar stud remove tool - need recommnedation!

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Just to close the loop.

I got the new studs this afternoon. Tried getting the rear stud out with Vice Grips - no joy. Last resort - remove the front stud and the chain tensioner, and lock the rear stud in a vise. Turn the saw. Held my breath because if this didn't work, I was quite screwed.

It did work!

Got the new 390 short block in and sewed her back up. Runs great.

Now off to find some wood .......
 
Glad you got it sorted.
Another really good way to remove damaged studs is in a drill chuck. I have pulled a heap of damaged studs, broken bolts, broken screws etc with 18v high torque cordless drills. A well tightened chuck will hang on as good as anything else around.
 
Glad you got it sorted.
Another really good way to remove damaged studs is in a drill chuck. I have pulled a heap of damaged studs, broken bolts, broken screws etc with 18v high torque cordless drills. A well tightened chuck will hang on as good as anything else around.

Best method is to mig weld a bar nut to the stud, have ice or plenty of water at the ready. Only weld in short bursts, cool the metal/weld, another short burst repeat cooling. That ole stud will now turn right out with your regular bar nut scrench.
 
Best method is to mig weld a bar nut to the stud, have ice or plenty of water at the ready. Only weld in short bursts, cool the metal/weld, another short burst repeat cooling. That ole stud will now turn right out with your regular bar nut scrench.

My version is worth trying first before cracking out the welder, ice, water, and scrench.
 
My version is worth trying first before cracking out the welder, ice, water, and scrench.

Mine is always at the ready, flip switch ,pull trigger. Screnches all over the bench, no time for screwing around with hooking vice grips on and releasing them over and over. Ice and snow just outside the door, Great White North here...LOL
Its just the best method, not the only method.
 
I was at Sears last night and seen one of those GaterGrip sockets . I was wondering if one of those would work even though there made for taking of nuts and bolts . They were around 10.00 . I have the socket type with the cam inside I bought from a dealer that was going out of business . I got it at a good price . He said he paid about 80.00 for it but he said it was $ well spent .
 
Stud Removal

When all else fails, in my case.
A 3/8" drill bit and a cape chisel will remove that ##### stud.
As I was replacing the engine with a 039, destroying the engine was not an issue.
I will be picking up the new stud from my Stealer on Wednesday.
I still have the crank, rod and bearing as spares.
Now I know why clam shell saws are held in low regard, they are a royal pain to work on.
 

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