I bought an older used super split split a month ago. I finaly ordered a new subaru motor to replace the anceint briggs that was on it. Got it working today. The only problem is that it wont stay engaged. I need to hold the engagement knob up for the ram to continue to move forward. By the looks of youtube videos I should beable to pull the knob and it will say engaged until it completes the forward stroke. What would cause this? Also if it hits a peice of wood that it cant split it disengages. Shouldnt it bog down but stay engaged? Can someone also post a picture of the springs on theirs. There weren't any springs on mine when I got it so I put on springs from the hardware store. Sorry for so many questions.
Super split issues
- Thread starter Maplekid
- Start date
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goosegunner
ArboristSite Operative
I don't have one but I thought you have to hold up to complete forward stroke. It increases safety.
gg
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Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
Disengagement is what they're designed to do; not bog down. You just hit the log again.
As for not locking, see this post:
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/53224-7.htm#post1472364
and his reply two posts below; not a lot of detail but there's a nut on the engagement lever that can be adjusted.
As for not locking, see this post:
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/53224-7.htm#post1472364
and his reply two posts below; not a lot of detail but there's a nut on the engagement lever that can be adjusted.
Granite Stater
ArboristSite Lurker
The fact that it does not lock in the engaged position means the engagement cam stop arm is probably bent. That keeps the cam from going past center which is what holds the rack down on the pinion under load. If you have the owner manual it describes how to fix this, involves filing the stop arm. Badly worn cam bearings or excessive play in the pivot shaft are less likely possibilities.
BTW, the arm gets bent from the cam disengaging and violently slamming it down on the rack when it stalls, so it is a self-perpetuating issue. And yes, when the ram stalls, the belts should slip (so don't over tension them) and the rack should stay engaged. I was advised by the SS owner to put a couple drops of oil on the clutch shoes now and then as added insurance against disengaging.
You are correct that once fully engaged, you do not need to keep holding the knob. And doing so could be hazardous to fingers. The best thing to do when the ram is stopped, is throttle back the engine so the clutch disengages removing any load on the engine, belts, rack, and pinion then disengage manually.
My original engine is still going strong, was yours a 5 or 3 HP?
BTW, the arm gets bent from the cam disengaging and violently slamming it down on the rack when it stalls, so it is a self-perpetuating issue. And yes, when the ram stalls, the belts should slip (so don't over tension them) and the rack should stay engaged. I was advised by the SS owner to put a couple drops of oil on the clutch shoes now and then as added insurance against disengaging.
You are correct that once fully engaged, you do not need to keep holding the knob. And doing so could be hazardous to fingers. The best thing to do when the ram is stopped, is throttle back the engine so the clutch disengages removing any load on the engine, belts, rack, and pinion then disengage manually.
My original engine is still going strong, was yours a 5 or 3 HP?
sunfish
Fish Head
This is the most correct info so far in this thread. I'd be calling Paul at Super Split next week and ask him what's needed to fix it.
sunfish
Fish Head
Nope, they are supposed to stay engaged, until the end of the ram travel, or until manually disengaged. Seems some in the older thread were tightening the nut on top of the hand leaver too tight.
