Teeny tiny Homie XL.

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Well, he lives again, kinda.

I finished assembly this morning and fueled him up. Runs but not well. Starts right up on choke then runs and dies or just dies after choke is off. Did get him to run for about 1 min by richening up the low side then it ran too fast at idle. Looks like an air leak somewhere and I suspect the carb base gasket as that gasket was not in the best shape. I'll order a new carb kit along with my other parts and try again!


I've seen the mufflers get clogged up with carbon on those little Homies and they run terrible. Just a thought........
 
I've seen the mufflers get clogged up with carbon on those little Homies and they run terrible. Just a thought........

Muffler is squeaky clean, see post 17 for info on bad diaphram.:cheers:

Runs great now!
 
the old girl cleaned up real nice

Got the little xl cleaned up, going to see about parts tomorrow, it's kind of fun working on these old saws as long as you don't have to spend to much on them.
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Yeah I picked up one of those that had been "junked" for seven years, checked compression and spark...had good both and a fuel and oil line later she was runnin like she was new. Really has balls for such a small saw.
 
Speaking of mufflers....

I have been wondering about mine because it is basically just an empty box with some little holes on the vent side.
I wondered if it was missing some internal components? It is so loud for such a wee little saw though it is pretty obvious why with that muffler.
I never tried but I wondered if I took off the muffler there would even be any change in the saw..
Thanks to anyone who knows about those muffs.
Sure wish I could find the oil and fuel caps for this saw. I am going to buy some corks next time I am in town so I can stuff them in the filler holes! The old caps wore out got loose and are lost now.

I probably have the caps as I have several of these little Homies in the junk pile.
 
I have one of these. Oiler doesnt work can someone explain how it works and the oil line cofiguration and what about that 'duckbill' valve?? :help:

Well there were actually a couple different oiler configurations, but most commonly, the oil tank is pressurized using a system of one-way duckbill valves (allows pressure from crankcase into oil tank, but not back out). Once the tank is pressurized it forces oil out through the unrestricted oil line, and onto the bar. The catch is that these duckbill tend to soften up, and as soon as they start allowing air back out, your oil output drops and eventually stops altogether.
 
When I started climbing many years ago we used the Homlite super 2 with the double trigger set up, I liked using them, they were pretty good saws.
 
My lil Super 2 has a terrible problem with the crankcase flooding with bar oil! It ran fine until I oiled it up, and then ran and smoked terribly, and then wouldn't even turn over. It looks like the duckbill valve is in place, could the check valve be blocked? I can't even get it to turn over because of the oil all in the crankcase.
 
DuckBill

I just checked mine out today to be sure and sure enough as soon as I made my homemade oil cap air-tight, oil start flowing quite well to the bar. Break the seal and oil would just stop.
As for the duck bill valve. Mine is worn right out. I took it out as it isn't doing anything. Without it, the oiler still works fine but if I tip the saw vertical or on it's side it draws the oil in and just blasts smoke out the exhaust along with a bit of oil.

What I am going to replace the tiny little rubber duck bill with I am not sure.
Might have to improvise with some very small one way valve......

Oh ye.... anyone who wants to sell me an oil / fuel cap set for the XL-2, PM please. Also any spare DuckBills or alternative out there, let me know. My caps are the ones with the thread on the inside of the cap. Kthnx.
 
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Oil in the crankcase

My lil Super 2 has a terrible problem with the crankcase flooding with bar oil! It ran fine until I oiled it up, and then ran and smoked terribly, and then wouldn't even turn over. It looks like the duckbill valve is in place, could the check valve be blocked? I can't even get it to turn over because of the oil all in the crankcase.

My duckbill looked fine when I inspected from outside the saw. but when I took it out it was clear it wasn't doing anything. It is a very delicate piece of the most softest rubber so no wonder it wears out. There is no question to me at all that is indeed where the oil is getting into my crankcase.
After you dump all that oil out of the crankcase you should try filling the oil tank part way and be careful not to splash or submerge the duckbill. I bet that will show that the oil is getting in there. My duckbill and tube is right at the top where the cap is so it was easy to test that.
 
I have one of these little guys. I just dug it out of my basement last night. Took it apart today cleaned out 10 years worth of mold oil and saw dust. After I drained the oil out of the gas tank and filled it with fresh gas it fired right up. It doesn't run right but it does run. I was shocked to say the least. It has been sitting down there since my father passe3d away 7 years ago. It even went through the flood last summer. My oiler too was not working. I went to Paetsmart and bought a check valve for aquarium air pump to replace the duck bill. I haven't tried it yet but it sure looks like it will work. I may try to tune the carb a bit but I doubt I will spend any money on it. If it won't run properly I will **** can it.
 
I have one of these little guys. I just dug it out of my basement last night. Took it apart today cleaned out 10 years worth of mold oil and saw dust. After I drained the oil out of the gas tank and filled it with fresh gas it fired right up. It doesn't run right but it does run. I was shocked to say the least. It has been sitting down there since my father passe3d away 7 years ago. It even went through the flood last summer. My oiler too was not working. I went to Paetsmart and bought a check valve for aquarium air pump to replace the duck bill. I haven't tried it yet but it sure looks like it will work. I may try to tune the carb a bit but I doubt I will spend any money on it. If it won't run properly I will **** can it.

Mine came from my Dad as well.
I was wondering about aquarium parts too.... could you post the results on that valve when you have the chance!
They are tough little saws.
Make sure all the little ports on the muffler are not plugged up.
 
yea im running specials 50% off homelite mcculloch and echo and soon to be poulan

and i have parts on ebay Homelite parts lot so will be adding more on there in the next few days
Calvin, how much would 10 of these duck bill valves cost me? shipped to a 47660 zip?? I am always needing them and they are getting hard to find around these parts.
 
I have one of these little guys. I just dug it out of my basement last night. Took it apart today cleaned out 10 years worth of mold oil and saw dust. After I drained the oil out of the gas tank and filled it with fresh gas it fired right up. It doesn't run right but it does run. I was shocked to say the least. It has been sitting down there since my father passe3d away 7 years ago. It even went through the flood last summer. My oiler too was not working. I went to Paetsmart and bought a check valve for aquarium air pump to replace the duck bill. I haven't tried it yet but it sure looks like it will work. I may try to tune the carb a bit but I doubt I will spend any money on it. If it won't run properly I will **** can it.

Be very careful with this idea as not all products are impervious to petroleum products and can soften and otherwise self destruct. then you could be out more than just your time and a few cents.
I haven't checked in a while but these duckbills valves were fairly inexpensive at either of the above sites one of which is now half off. I think I will have to work on mine now that I can afford parts.
 

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