The best 2 stroke oil?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Guys, this happened within 1 tankful after changing the spark plug. The new plug was an OEM replacement, properly gapped. The fuel was the same as I had been using for years, and it worked fine in the new 500i that replaced it. I do know that some sawdust got in when I removed the old plug. I figured it would just blow out quickly. I won't make that mistake again. I cannot think of another plausible explanation.
I started practice of carry 2" paint brush, and I clear the oil/ fuel caps of chips before and during opening to keep trash out of the tanks, HIGHLY RECOMMEND this practice. Cut the handle shorter to your preferred length.
 
Octane to a 2stroke means quite a lot, if you do not believe it! try some G100UL avgas or tubo blue racing fuel. There's also some 115 Octane low lead (if you know someone with a plane) that can buy it! I use to run it in my WR430 Husqvarna, took the ping-ping right out of it. It run cooler and the rings lasted twice as long! The higher the compression ratio is 2 or 4 stroke engines the more they like high octane fuel. Lead means nothing to a 2stroke engine, it was used to cool the exhaust valves in 4stroke engines. Be more afraid of ethanol in your gas than lead (ethanol alcohol) mixes with water and then separates for the gasoline an causes rust on chainsaw crankshaft bearings and corrosion on aluminum and magnesium surfaces inside your engine! (the reason that you need to use a 2stroke oil that will coat the inside engine surfaces long after you stop using your saw at the end of the year. There was an oil called Golden Spectro that all of us Husky riders used. It left a ugly brown coating inside the engine that did not hurt anything ( did not have to worry about seizing your engine) I use castor927 now it is made with castor oil and clings to the complete inside of your engine! (year around).
 
OTOH,
50:1 never seemed right to me. 100:1 sounds like a new engine. I use whatever 50:1 2 cycle I find and mix it 40:1. Seems to work
I tried name brand dyno 2-cycle dino oil at 40:1 to break in my new $700 saw milling some years back; it seized a ring on last cut of day 2, and I thought out of gas... did not find out until 2yrs later due to back issue.... have always run Echo synthetic oil at 50:1 since, in all equipment, no issues.
 
OTOH,

I tried name brand dyno 2-cycle dino oil at 40:1 to break in my new $700 saw milling some years back; it seized a ring on last cut of day 2, and I thought out of gas... did not find out until 2yrs later due to back issue.... have always run Echo synthetic oil at 50:1 since, in all equipment, no issues.
That sounds like bad luck to me. I doubt name brand Dyno at 40:1 was the cause since full syn is not that old
 
What seized the piston ring was a micro thin layer of carbon, so thin that it looked like MAGIC MARKER, but it locked that ring so tight I had to break to remove ring, and then hammer out the remnants, so Yeah, it was the name brand dino oil. When I installed new ring, (maybe ca.2010?), Echo was the ONLY MFR pushing synthetic and offering 5-year warranty. It was at least 5 more years before Stihl changed from their "1-year warranty". My thought in 2010, and still is "Echo believes in their oil". ECHO POWER BLEND been MY GoTo since 2010. As REDLINE oil website said "At what temperature does your oil change from a lube to an adhesive goo?"
 
I started practice of carry 2" paint brush, and I clear the oil/ fuel caps of chips before and during opening to keep trash out of the tanks, HIGHLY RECOMMEND this practice. Cut the handle shorter to your preferred length.

A used toothbrush secured to the handle with a piece of string ( drill a hole in handle) works too.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top