The best *homeowner* saw only costs $298. brand new!

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This thread is about compatibility and value for the homeowner, nothing else!.

After being on this forum for several weeks now, there is lots of advice to potential new chainsaw owners given. Much of it is good; however, a lot of it is overkill.

What I mean is that I don't even think I can count as high as how many times I have read others suggesting new homeowners go out and buy a $600 Stihl ms361.

Yes, they are fantastic saws, no qualms there, but for the "occasional" user who may just cut down a few modest sized trees or a few cords of wood per year, these people really don't need to spend more than $298 for a fantastic brand new saw that is very *compatible* for what threy are doing with it.

The saw I referring to is a Husqvarna 350, plain and simple. This is a very powerful saw (by homeowner standards), producing 3.2 hp...[more than powerful enough for firewood cutting], and is also VERY light @ just a tick over 10 1/2 lbs.

A 3.2hp saw, weighing only 10 1/2 lbs and costing only $298.00 is proportionally about as good a ratio as the Dolar 5100 producing 3.8hp, weighing 11 lbs, and costing around $400. These are just fantastic specs!!!

Some members may suggest to get the husky 353 over the 350, but in reality, the only difference is the magnesium vs plastic case and around $50-$75 more money!.

While magnesium may be stronger than plastic, don't forget the main theme of this post.......that being COMPATIBILITY!!. Magnesium is used on PRO level saws that see many hundreds if not thousands of hours on them. If you are a "homeowner", ask yourself...."am I a PRO??". "Am I going to be cutting a few hundred cords of firewood this year? or maybe just 3 or 4??.

What I am really trying to say is that in my opinion, too many people are buying "PRO" level saws and spending much more money than they have to when a high quality "homeowner" saw like the Husky 350 will work out perfectly for many, many years.

Now don't get me wrong, if you have the cash and desire to by a top of the line saw like a Stihl ms361, then by all means do. The only purpose of this post is just to let the "average" occasional user know that there are certainly other options that will accomplish the same goal for a lot less money.

For the occasional user who needs to cut down a few modest sized trees a year or several cords of firewood, go out and take a look at the Husky 350. It's there best selling saw for a reason as for the price, power, weight and value, it is one of the best "bang for the buck" saws you can buy..

I'm impressed MSH, you've proven my early assumptions of you wrong. Your post is very fair and well thought out. I completely agree with your views that many here are hyper-critical of non-pro saws. Nice job proving me wrong! :)
 
Whew! It's settled then. The Husky 350 is a fine HO saw. I'm running down to Lowes right now and get me a Husky 350.

Ummmm... maybe not. :hmm3grin2orange:

Soooo.....nobody has fully addressed the premise of this thread yet imho. The husky 350 is indeed the best value for a NEW homeowner chainsaw. It has full features and without actually running one yet I can say that if I had not been a reader of this sight (for this long) I would be running to Lowe's. Pros and experienced saw men (ok the girls too) will have different opinions. The Husky 350 is a marketing miracle...just look at sales of the NASCAR editon of this brand. For a first, second or third time homeowner saw the H350 is a total winner. What you all say makes great sense to the more experienced sawyer, but the economics of the marketplace puts features and price way ahead of anything else. Hence the poor sales of the MS 280 and the strong sales of the Husky 350. :deadhorse:
 
This is not a "smart arsed" reply, but rather a very serious one. Why does everyone think that if a Husky needs to be worked one, then the rule of thunmb must be to circumvent or avoid altogether the many established Husqvarna dealers and go straight to the big box store??. This makes no sense to me!.

If I owned a Husky and needed work done on it, I would just bring it to one of the numerous authorized husky dealers in my area, (who would stock most parts needed), and just have the obvious thing done by having them work on it!!.

Am I missing something here??

My dealer is higher than Lowes, where would you go? This is how most people think. They don't think that if the saw has a problem, they can run back into lowes and get it fixed quick and be on their way.

Now tell me something, If you and your wife were in the blowes or home depot and she wanted blinds real bad, are you gonna look at them with her? I'm not, I'm going to the man-ley section. That is where you see all these fancy signs about the wonderful saws. You think that since you have heard of Husky before their saws must be super. So you grab a buggy and throw that big cc 455 rancher in. Not being introduced to this site at this time yet either. You then meet the wife around the corner with the $1500 blinds:( and say we need this for the firewood honey.....

You get home and cut for a few and the f-ing won't run, wtf you say. You won't be taking it back to blowes because they can tell their azz from a hole in the wall.

All that being said: If more people were educated on power tools they would learn that a dealer is your best friend. I know Husky makes good saws but the box stores kill their sales...
 
This is not a "smart arsed" reply, but rather a very serious one. Why does everyone think that if a Husky needs to be worked one, then the rule of thunmb must be to circumvent or avoid altogether the many established Husqvarna dealers and go straight to the big box store??. This makes no sense to me!.

If I owned a Husky and needed work done on it, I would just bring it to one of the numerous authorized husky dealers in my area, (who would stock most parts needed), and just have the obvious thing done by having them work on it!!.

Am I missing something here??

A lot.:dizzy:

....and the local Husky dealer is going to LOVE you when you bring in your BIG BOX purchase for him to wrench on. This is not a Stihl vs. Husky vs Dolmar vs Jred thing, it's a Big Box vs Local dealer thing. If you're happy paying rock bottom price on the net or big box, fine, but be prepared for having your service work to be denied by some servicing dealers or at the very least put behind loyal customers that actually drop their hard earned dollars in their establishment for the big ticket items. Good enough to wrench on your saw, but not good enough to buy from. If you wrench on your own stuff, god bless, buy where you will for what you want to pay.

Is a "pro" grade saw overkill for most homeowner sawyers? Yes. But if they can afford it and desire the inheirent longevity built into a pro saw more power to 'em. Both Stihl & Husky sell more than enough consumer/homeowner saws to the uniformed that the few pushed towards pro grade here aren't even a drop in the bucket. I don't think anyone here pushes the seekers for advice into something they don't want to do. If you don't want Pro advice on saws, don't go to a website that is geared to the pro saw operator. Not saying homeowners aren't welcome here, far from it, but when you ask pros what they use on the job and have experience with, that's just what you're going to get.:chainsawguy:
 
I recall going through all this more than twenty years ago and refusing to look after the home saw owner who purchased from discount houses it's referred to as chopping your fingers off to spite your hand ....

If your the dealer you reakon you are then it's about making money so when the guy needs something to replace the smaller saw he will hopefully pick the guy who looked after him when he needed him most.

I wonder how many of the advisors on this forum are really pro cutters but fall between the home-owner and the pro.

Different horses for different courses.

I learn't the hard way and it took many years to try and catch up silly me.

Mc Bob.
 
Mr. SH,
Your choice is a personal decision, and you are the only one who can make it.
I happen to own a 350 and there is nothing wrong with the way it performs (for what it is). I bought mine used, real cheap so I figured what the heck.
My opinion is, and remember this is only my opinion, a few more bucks would be well spent. If you figure your firewood cutting time at minimum wage you could easily save the extra expense cutting several cords. I like to cut wood but I also like to pet the kids momma, the quicker I cut the wood the sooner I'm petting.;)
So in my opinion, the money spent on a 3.8 to 4 hp. saw is well spent.

Andy
 
Since this post is going in all directions!The only saw I can get at a box store here is a Echo or Poulan and non are bigger than 45cc!As to dealer support there are those of us who own saws with no dealer support or the saws are too old and not made anymore.I also ran into a problem with getting parts for my 041 and 056 at the Stihl dealer because they are morons!All I wanted to do was get some spare rims and a air filter! I am lucky that the Jred dealer can get me almost anything and by that they can look it up in the parts book or on screen.Some homeowners can turn a wrench so if it breaks after the warranty fix it yourself if it breaks during warranty take it back the big box stores don't ask question and most of the time will just give you another one.But for those that are not mechanically inclined they should buy from a dealer be it a pro saw or a homeowner saw they will at least be better served.Plus there will be someone that can show them how to start it and care for it.
 
Alot of readers here are homeowners not pros.I do storm damage and side jobs. Started with "Pullins" then went with two MS290s, then the 350, 346, 5100, 372, and 361. "Pullin"and 290s didn't work out. My 350 sat after the 346 came and it sat after the 5100 came. If I lost all and only did a few trees a year, I would buy a 350 again. Parts and repair are not a problem.
 
Good enough to wrench on your saw, but not good enough to buy from.
Can you please explain to us consumers why we should want to pay extra to patronize a dealer that views us as good enough to sell saws to, but not good enough to sell service to?
 
well,,, do you own a Husky????

This is not a "smart arsed" reply, but rather a very serious one. Why does everyone think that if a Husky needs to be worked one, then the rule of thunmb must be to circumvent or avoid altogether the many established Husqvarna dealers and go straight to the big box store??. This makes no sense to me!.

If I owned a Husky and needed work done on it, I would just bring it to one of the numerous authorized husky dealers in my area, (who would stock most parts needed), and just have the obvious thing done by having them work on it!!.

Am I missing something here??

Am I missing something here??
 
buahahahahahaha

Not cutting quick enough could cause you to loose the thickness to the bill fold. Which in turn could cause you to loose the pet.:D

Andy

I'm out of bullets tonight. Pets cost too much.:jester: :jester: Chainsaws don't talk back either:chainsaw: :chainsaw: Though the saw does drip some oil now and then. Ok, I'm gonna stop:dizzy:
 
Is it me or is fall coming early this year? Usually these sorts of posts don't show up until September.

Yup, it's a good value of a saw. Dozens of threads on this topic. Yup, HD/Lowes/TSC are not *good* places to buy OPE. Dozens of threads on this topic, too.

I agree that a lot of the suggestions here at AS are overkill and I'm often guilty of doing that, but the truth is that most first-time saw buyers under-buy relative to their present and likely future needs. A 50cc saw is NOT a "one saw for all purposes" machine, even if one does go slap a 20" bar on it. :dizzy:

That said, the 350 for $300 is a lot of saw for the money.
 
MSH,

There are many factors for selecting a saw, not just need. Back when I was buying my first serious saw (replacing a McCulloch EB 3.7 that was almost serious) I looked long and hard at the 350 and decided on the 346. It was about $75 more and either would have done the job fine. It was really "pride of ownership" more than anything else. I liked the idea of a true pro saw and a few 1/10's of a h.p. is fairly significant in such a small saw.

Interesting thing is that I later purchased the 372 because the 346 wasn't efficient at lumber over 16" in diameter. I'm not a pro, but I like to have really good equipment, sized for the job. This is a hobby for me and I enjoy helping my friends and family out. To be honest, most of them scare me to death when they use a saw, doing crazy stuff that will get them hurt or killed. Doing this type work is fun and allow me to keep them alive a few years more!

Several weeks ago a good friend wanted a saw for a couple small trees per year. I recommended the 350 to him and explained he could arguably get the best intermediate saw on the planet (5100) for about $80 more. He's not into the chainsaw thing and selected the 350. I think he made the right choice for his needs. Compared to his tiny, late model Mac, the 350 will seem like a beast and he will be pleased.

I think most of us underestimate the supplier side of the equation here. Most small users don't take care of their equipment, running dull chains, keeping gas in the saw for many months (without stabilizer), running incorrect oil mix, and rarely cleaning filters. Take the 361 or any pro saw and treat it that way and you'll either be throwing it in the trash can in 18 months or pumping $$$ more dollars for a repair and incur bad press for the brand.

I've never seen stats on it, but I bet most homeowners around here (Atlanta) don't run a saw more than 30 minutes per year on average. More than likely they use it about 15 minutes most years to whack a bush or small tree, then several hours every 5-10 years for an ice storm. Lack of use with poor normal maintenance claims homeowner saws in these parts.

By the way, my brother-in-law repairs things for one of the box stores, and you wouldn't believe the stuff he gets back as returns. Many of the "won't cranks" involves the chain brake being engaged. Many of the rest are oil and gas in the wrong tanks or no oil in the gas at all. Simply amazing and scary.
 
Can you please explain to us consumers why we should want to pay extra to patronize a dealer that views us as good enough to sell saws to, but not good enough to sell service to?

I am a consumer as well, so my answer to your question is my consumer's answer. I have yet to meet a dealer that will not work on product they sell (your quote: "...good enough to sell saws to, but not good enough to sell service too?"). But I surely don't mind spending a few extra of my hard earned bucks to buy from a retailer that knows their product and will be there for me when I need them. Not every dealer has great service, but the ones that do get my $ & loyalty. My strategy has yet to fail me.......:clap:

Do what works for you and makes you happy............:cheers:
 
I'm out of bullets tonight. Pets cost too much.:jester: :jester: Chainsaws don't talk back either:chainsaw: :chainsaw: Though the saw does drip some oil now and then. Ok, I'm gonna stop:dizzy:

Hahaha. Chain saw's don't talk back, but there are a lot of other things they don't do either. :laugh:
I think I'll cut fast, try to keep my bill fold fat, and try to keep my pet at home. Best of both worlds.

Andy
 
Thread Recalibration:

Remember this thread is about a homeowner buying a "compatible" saw for his needs. If his needs are moderate, he may only need a moderate, (mid range) saw. While it may be nice to have a monster powerful saw, if someone only cuts a tree or two a year, or only a couple cords of wood, the 'PRO" level saw is not only incompatible, but in my opinion, it also discounts the level fo the supposed "pro" level if every ****, joe and harry own them.

This thread has nothing to do with buying at big box stores; however, I also wanted to point out that potential husky buyers can easily go to a local authorized Husky dealer to not only purchase, but have future work done as well.

Furthermore, the big box stores (which I am now de-railing my own thread!), only carry a very few select models of chain saws. I doubt any husky dealer would try and get a lot more money from the same model saw as the big boxes carry. Instead, they may offer a very attractive package deal including some tuning or service pro bono that the big box stores can't offer.

If you must split the smallest hair when it comes to tiny amounts of money (price of big box store vs dealer), then you probably should be out working instead of reading and posting on this forum anyway!!:biggrinbounce2:
 
Thread Recalibration:

Remember this thread is about a homeowner buying a "compatible" saw for his needs. If his needs are moderate, he may only need a moderate, (mid range) saw. While it may be nice to have a monster powerful saw, if someone only cuts a tree or two a year, or only a couple cords of wood, the 'PRO" level saw is not only incompatible, but in my opinion, it also discounts the level fo the supposed "pro" level if every ****, joe and harry own them.

This thread has nothing to do with buying at big box stores; however, I also wanted to point out that potential husky buyers can easily go to a local authorized Husky dealer to not only purchase, but have future work done as well.

Furthermore, the big box stores (which I am now de-railing my own thread!), only carry a very few select models of chain saws. I doubt any husky dealer would try and get a lot more money from the same model saw as the big boxes carry. Instead, they may offer a very attractive package deal including some tuning or service pro bono that the big box stores can't offer.

If you must split the smallest hair when it comes to tiny amounts of money (price of big box store vs dealer), then you probably should be out working instead of reading and posting on this forum anyway!!:biggrinbounce2:

I would still say get the 353, the plastic cranckcask doesnt bother me as much as the plastic on the bar oil housing. I have had people that have had the bar wrench bust through the housing on any brand by being droped in the case. It can happen with a mag. casing but not as likely.

The 350 is a good saw and you can get into the whole engie casing unlike the 290 frame which is very nice. I do agree with your write up though, but Id still pay extra for the mag. case because of other factors.
 

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