The Skidder Thread

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problem; front cradle is worn sloppy. here is my fix on the 666 clark skidder. a lot of skidders are similer. started by carefully measuring and marking where weldments to go.
next to cut out with torch and make sure weldments line up properly

Nice work TS. Some measuring and you'll be set. When I did that prentice boom fix I made card board templates. dont know if you could do that but it would help if you could.
 
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I cut the whole block out of the skidder, this way I can comfortably weld the repair in standing up.
I will still have to weld the block back in but its a little easyer ta get to. so this part is all but done, still a little welding ta do on the block itself. when the wheel loader comes home i'll get the axle cradle assembly in the shop ta weld a repair in it, then ta put her back tagether.
 
I must apologize to nhlogga, I told him his 3-53 must have a blower shaft. after reviewing the service book it appears that a 2-53 and 3-53 does not have a blower shaft. I was wrong about that logga sorry man.
 
I must apologize to nhlogga, I told him his 3-53 must have a blower shaft. after reviewing the service book it appears that a 2-53 and 3-53 does not have a blower shaft. I was wrong about that logga sorry man.

No prob. I have had the same discussion with many others. I believe the blower is driven by the cam gear. I may be wrong.
 
should be around 150, less they put in a new rod add 100 more. it's easy, get a kit from deere unscrew the gland, then take the nut off rod. it's apart, replace seals and put her back tagether. kit should cost around 50
 
Deere say's 165. and some change here... I know its just a couple few o-rings and a seal, so I'm not sure what it is they are trying to sell me on...

Good news is the retaining nut on the end is already loose so that should help with the tear down...
 
Deere say's 165. and some change here... I know its just a couple few o-rings and a seal, so I'm not sure what it is they are trying to sell me on...

Good news is the retaining nut on the end is already loose so that should help with the tear down...

wow, that's to high. a hydro shop can prolly match the seals a lot cheaper
 
NM as TS said you can easily do that yourself. If you have a bench vise or a vise of some sort. As long as the rod is not burred up any where, even if it is take some fine emory cloth and take the burrs off. a guy with a hammer and a pipe wrench can do one in an hour. That retaining nut being loose is probably what took out the seals to begin with. If you do it yourself put a touch of loctite on the threads and torque that bad boy down as tight as you can.
 

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