Thinking of starting square filing

[mdavlee]

Mabye I'll give it a try then Mike, just for fun. If you get sometime one of these days it would be nice you could post how you go about doing some of these procedures.
the tools/techniques you use. A short video would really help.
I've never even heard of "stoning", Well maybe back in high school.

When I get some free time at home I'll try to get some pictures and maybe a video of working on them.

 

[Philbert]

Hypothetically speaking could you put the chain on backwards then run the chain past the stone on the east side?

I think that a lot of Home Depot saws are set up for this . . . .

If you get sometime one of these days it would be nice you could post how you go about doing some of these procedures. the tools/techniques you use. A short video would really help.

+1

A separate thread on race chain techniques would be very interesting. I know that there have been some posts in the past, but worth reviving.

Philbert

 

[Hedgerow]

It evens the teeth out so they all cut the same width. When you make a cut with a stoned chain the ends will be smooth with no little rough spots on the log.

Sure makes a difference with the "feel" of a chain too..
Sorta brings them un-ruley teeth in line and makes em share the kerf...

 

[mdavlee]

Hypothetically speaking could you put the chain on backwards then run the chain past the stone on the east side? Kind of the same principle is making a reamer smaller with a stone??

You can but it spins so fast you can take too much off easily.

 

[Philbert]

Does stoning leave a double bevel on the side plate edge? Maybe a 'micro-bevel' that the woodworking guys try to put on their chisels and plane irons?

Philbert

 

[mdavlee]

Here's a picture of s stoned tooth.

 

[Trx250r180]

Here's a picture of s stoned tooth.

why did you move the corner of your cutter out of the way of the raker ?:msp_wink:

 

[Philbert]

So you do have a double bevel on the side plate - actually more than I expected.

Thinking out loud, this would create a narrower kerf, and a more forward angled cutting edge.

(I know that this will make some guys gag, but it reminds me of the outside bevel on the PowerSharp chains!)

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Actually, a lot of guys grind their race chains way back, presumably to make lighter teeth and to allow more clip clearance. But, due to the trapezoidal shape of the cutters, this also results in a narrower kerf.

95VP chain is looking better and better . . .

Philbert

 

[Homelite410]

Here's a picture of s stoned tooth.

I'm thinking a 3" stone in a mandrel spinning 7000rpm in my mill clamp bar in mill vise and simply roll the chain around

 

[Hedgerow]

I'm thinking a 3" stone in a mandrel spinning 7000rpm in my mill clamp bar in mill vise and simply roll the chain around

With a machine shop at your disposal, there should be several things you could do to get the desired results...
Just remember, you don't want to remove material as much as you want all those renegade cutters brought into order...
That way, they're sharing in the duty of removing material from the same kerf, and not wanting to wallow around in the road less traveled off to the sides...:msp_wink:

 

[SierraWoodsman]

from the pic it looks like stoning is only done to the outside plate of the cutter, and raker outside surface.
Is this correct?

 

[ernurse]

Wow I didn't know chain sharpening could be made so complicated. I'm still having some difficulty getting my chains the way I want them on my Silvey. ALMOST has me wanting to give up and go back to round.

 

[mdavlee]

from the pic it looks like stoning is only done to the outside plate of the cutter, and raker outside surface.
Is this correct?

Yeah you just want to even them up. I did take some off the raker to make sure it isn't rubbing. More friction is slower through the wood.

 

[SierraWoodsman]

Wow I didn't know chain sharpening could be made so complicated. I'm still having some difficulty getting my chains the way I want them on my Silvey. ALMOST has me wanting to give up and go back to round.

Don't give up! Your lucky to have that R2 as unfortunately they are no longer making them.
Once you get your Silvey Dialed in you'll be a happy camper. A little initial experimentation usually helps. I found that by raising the wheel on the Arbor allows me to get a nice cutting geometry for both .325", and 3/8" chain without further adjustment of wheel height. This also helps reduce nicking the tie-strap while maintaining a thin top plate angle for faster cutting. You just have to "lead the wheel" more with .325"-(carriage assembly adjustment)

....For some reason this site won't let me post any pics

 

[w8ye]

The picture problem

Fatal error:

File system directory "[path]/attachments/6/3/9/8/5" is not writable or cannot be found. Please create this directory; ensure the directory is writable or change the directory setting.

Unable to proceed with save while $errors array is not empty in class vB_DataManager_AttachmentFiledata in [path]/includes/class_dm.php on line 849

 

[SierraWoodsman]

The picture problem

Fatal error:

File system directory "[path]/attachments/6/3/9/8/5" is not writable or cannot be found. Please create this directory; ensure the directory is writable or change the directory setting.

Unable to proceed with save while $errors array is not empty in class vB_DataManager_AttachmentFiledata in [path]/includes/class_dm.php on line 849

wood u Mind "Dumming that down" for us simple folks? I thought a couple pics of the grinder setup might be helpful to enurse.

 

[gunnusmc03]

Host it on an image hosting site like photobucket then just paste the pic URL with the Img tag link it provides.

 

[Alex D]

Just thinking aloud here, but Aussie wood is A LOT harder than North American woods, especially the softwoods of the West Coast. I mean some of the Aussie guys have said that oak is considered a softwood there. As far as I know the Stihl, Oregon, Carlton etc... chains sold there are the same RC as the North American ones it stands to reason that the chain will dull much faster in Aussie hardwood than in North American softwood. Now square ground chain dulls pretty easily which means it will require more time touching up and this means more time that you're not cutting and more money spent both on chains and on files etc... One guy mentioned a double bevel file costs $12-pretty pricey and they may not be as readily available in Australia.

Im pretty sure that Ive read on this site that the preferred chain in Aus is the Carlton semi chisel .404, from my experience here in Canada this chain is amazing when it comes to cutting downed trees that have been on the ground for a long time and have dirt particles, dry etc... This chain really holds an edge a long time, much longer than round chisel. So when cutting wood that quickly dulls chains you'll end up cutting more of it using semi chisel- less time spent sharpening. Even though on single cut tests round and especially square ground chisel is much faster.

Also as far as I know, I maybe wrong here but virtually no one in Aus uses square chisel- there's probably a reason for that. Same way most people in the PNW use square chisel. What works good in the PNW or in North America may not work so well in Australia, very different wood.

 

[mdavlee]

Right now photobucket is the way to go. Tapatalk doesn't give me an option for a picture now.