tips and tricks?

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And, if it comes back up and has a knot/ eye in it, watch out for metal karebiner (especially steel) wipping around especially speeding up through a pulley without 'any' friction.

Even with a BrainBucket, one of those in the face or across the back ain't nice!
 
tie a knot

tie a knot this is so simple, wish I had of thaught of it I dont know how many times I have had to restring do to an overzealous groundman. Now I can save my colourfull language for something else.
 
Re: tie a knot

Originally posted by Dobber
tie a knot this is so simple, wish I had of thaught of it I dont know how many times I have had to restring do to an overzealous groundman. Now I can save my colourfull language for something else.


It still sucks having to go back up and retrieve it! :angry:
 
While you're at it, tie a slip knot. And pay attention to which side you put in the loop. One side will hold a pull from one direction, and the other from the other (if that makes sense).

Just play with a slip knot a few times....you'll see what I mean.

love
nick
 
When I train groundies to lower wood I show them what happens if they don't put a stopper in the lowering line. I tell them that everyone gets a freebie, the second time it happens, they climb and reset...off the clock :) so far, no one has done a second.

Tom
 
I have trained my groundman to tie a slip knot with the appropiate length of tail so I can clip the loop to my harness and then tie off the load. It makes it much easier when your not holding up all of the rope. When working a spar same thing leave enough tail that I can tie off the peice without untieing the slip knot.
 
When I use a block, I set a gin line using an appropriate crotch. Then tie the block to the gin line. Feed a lowering line through the block. Then pull the block up to the crotch with the first line and tie it off. When the work is done, the weight of my block usually lowers itself when its securing line is untied. This saves a climb back up to untie the block. Confusing?
 
Originally posted by topnotchtree
When I use a block, I set a gin line using an appropriate crotch.


Uhhh, whuts a gin line?
icon_shifty.gif
 
A gin line is what is referred to around here as a work line. A gin would be a crotch to set the line into. I don't know why they are called that but that is the common terminology here. ;)
 
I haven't heard the term gin line, only gin pole. ( natural crotch for lowering wood ).

I think what Topnotch is reffering to is basically a rope with a block on the end.

An adjustable false crotch secured at the base of the tree.
 
You will get the 2x1 x 2x1 =4x1 pull on the support without friction on either line, with a pulley in the crotch and closed angle of lines; we can assume the first 2x1; but the 2nd multiplier we can beat part of, by spreading the weight to supports just as high or higher; or with friction. Anything, that is done, to increase the friction on the upper support, reduces the 2nd 2x1; even just wrapping the line under, for and across; induces more friction, which immediately reduces the 2nd multiplier; bringing you back down close to 2x1. Some of the strategies pretty simple, just watching how you lace line; not much reason not to do to practice seeing / increasing SWL etc.

Tracing the line back down the top of the support, can increase friction; and have the pulley support line exit at a point of lower leverage of pull on the support to boot! Sometimes we put a round turn in 60' up with throw line, with a carabiner and line for remote relese (and setting) of the round turn, to raise friction on support, for about only 2/1 pull on support (because of the pulley).

If ever the pulley is coming down slow/harder on dis-assembly of rig, anchor one end of line thru pulley to ground, and pull the other for ~2x1 aid in removal of the pulley. As always, the wider the angle made in the line petween you pulling and the anchoring, the less of the 2x1 Mechanical Advantage you will get for drawing the pulley down.

Another trick is instead of pulling a limb down, forcing stronger hinge with throwline looped over target limb and you pulling with both legs of line; spin throwbag end of line around anchor quickly 4 + times, and make line with weight cross/ lock itself against pulling up. Then just pull other end, for 2x1 - friction on branch. Pull more hangers down easier, make hinges stronger, just from the same pattern of laced line. A quick groundie with throwline can help force hinge 40' up, quickly, with real leverage depending on distance to hinge. If testing/setting a life or rigging line, might do same; to test/set better, anchor one side of line, jump on / impact the other end.

Patterns of leverage rule! Sometimes for ya, sometimes against ya! i try to minimize those that stand against me, and maximize those that stand for, especially in things that have all the rest of the advantages!

Orrrr something like that!
:alien:
 
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Whenever I am forced to hang by the ball for any length of time ( like working out widowmakers prior to removals) I add a second short piece of rope as a back support.

I take a 4 or 5 ft piece of line, flip it behind my head and shoulders, and pass it under both armpits. Then I clip it on the ball, on top of my saddle dee.

I adjust it to put me in a comfortable position, and can hang like that all day(NOT!). Its like sitting down in a basket chair.
 
I don't know how this would work for the majority of arborist work but it makes me feel safer when using ALT. I made a loop out of a safety belt that I got from a junkyard with my stitch awl and some stout nylon thread that I got from a tack shop. I suppose you could use rope like Butch if you wanted. I wrap it around my shoulders to form an X in back and grab both ends of the loop in front with a pear shaped locking biner with small end facing down(you can also add D rings to the loop). I connect the chest biner to my center D with a short hunk (about 1') of chain so I can shorten or lengthen it. I attach my single or double ended lanyard with a friction hitch to my chest biner and it really is the most comfortable thing I've found so far to lean back and take a rest or think things over. The main thing that I like about this harness is that If I fall (and I did once) it keeps me upright with less chance of smacking my head. This probably sounds like a gyppo outfit but it was cheap 20 years ago when I made it and it works.

Another trick that has come in handy for me is to have a portable tailhold (anchor) handy. Any auto or truck shop has axle shafts that are headed for the scrap bin and they'll usually give them away. If you don't have the means at home you could probably get them to sharpen the spline end with a torch and knock out the studs for cheap. Now you have portable anchor that you can pound into the ground with a bunch holes on top that you can add shackles or steel biners to. Depending on the angle of the dangle you can pull alot, or pound in a few more and hook them together. Common sense is all it takes. Jeepers use them over here to winch themselves out when they're short on cable or tailholds. Careful of buried utility lines in urban areas.:)
 
Recapp of tips and tricks?

I did my first side job of the year today. As I was working I tried to think of some of the cool tricks I read about all winter long here at A.S. I just thought if we could bring up some of our favorite tricks and tips now, as the work season seems to be starting, they would not be forgotten.Waddya think?
 
Thanks Butch. I guess searching archives is easier than I thought! You sure made things simple!
 
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