Upgrades to Echo CS-590

[Idahonative]

I was just going by the part numbers, the 590 and 600 are the , the 620 is different. Steve

Yep, the 590 and 600 share the same muffler part number (A300001570) and the 620 is different (A300001810). The only difference between the three is the deflector plate. Some come with the "90" welded onto the deflector so it is one unit. Others come with the "90" as a separate piece from the deflector making it easier...just take the piece out instead of cutting it out with a Dremel. As far as the muffler itself, they are all the same as far as I can tell.

EDIT: This is the parts diagram for the deflector plates but I believe it is in error. I'm almost positive that my 620's "90" came out with no cutting and the 600's "90" had to be cut out. Not that it matters, but future buyers should know that they will get one of the two. I think e-replacementparts may have the diagrams mixed up. I think the top and bottom diagrams are for the 590 & 600 (90 must be cut) and the middle diagram is the 620 (no cutting).

cs-590:

cs-600p:

cs-620p:

 

[Cliff R]

It is interesting that the CS-590, CS-600 and CS-620 all have the same size engine, but differences in part numbers for the major engine components. I'm not overly concerned about the CS-590 far as durability. I haven't had the first P/C, or crank/bearing issue with any of my Echo power equipment. They tend to make everything pretty tough, even the "homeowner" rated stuff, at least from what I've seen here......Cliff

 

[Idahonative]

It is interesting that the CS-590, CS-600 and CS-620 all have the same size engine, but differences in part numbers for the major engine components. I'm not overly concerned about the CS-590 far as durability. I haven't had the first P/C, or crank/bearing issue with any of my Echo power equipment. They tend to make everything pretty tough, even the "homeowner" rated stuff, at least from what I've seen here......Cliff

I agree. And I think I might have been wrong with my earlier statement that the 600p may have been built stronger than the 590 in certain critical areas like the crank and bearings. The 590 shares too many major parts with the 620 (the most powerful of the three) for that to be true. In fact, the 590 and 620 share the same:

- Crank Assy
- Crank Bearings
- Clutch Assy
- Starter Assy
- Flywheel

I have spent the last 2 hours digging through parts diagrams comparing the 590/600/620 and I have come to this conclusion: The cs-590 is one hell of a bargain because it shares many parts with the "higher end", pro model 600 and 620. Performance wise, I don't think the average guy will notice much difference between the three...all mods being equal.

 

[Vibes]

And a big "I have a potty mouth" to you too...

I'll opine whenever I want to, here or anywhere.

Your angry response makes me wonder who was at fault with your bad events.

I don't think I'm a fortune teller, maybe I am, who knows.

Your angry response makes KNOW you are a total tool. Your original response to a relatively new guy who is wondering about a new saw and asking for opinions makes know you are an even bigger TOOL.

The guys asking for advice on an item. You have nothing to say about the item except that he should buy something he's not asking about. Then you make a claim that you can't back up and from my experience is false. And you state it as an absolute then tell me too f#ck myself. Keep calm and also add to the thread. Opine to the point my friend or opine elsewhere

 

[Vibes]

Oh and by the way. Good thread!

I'm pointing a friend towards this saw. He's on a budget and his saw just got stolen. I told him he could get this very saw new with warraunty for slightly more for some rebuild with who knows what brand of AM parts.

 

[Idahonative]

Oh and by the way. Good thread!

I'm pointing a friend towards this saw. He's on a budget and his saw just got stolen. I told him he could get this very saw new with warraunty for slightly more for some rebuild with who knows what brand of AM parts.

If your friend is on a budget, the 590 can't be beat. Especially if he is or knows someone that is in the military. The 590 can be bought at Home Depot for $399 and military members get 10% off that price. That puts it at $360. If he doesn't know already, teach your friend how easy the MM and tune is on the 590 and he will smile from ear to ear.

I've said it before, I'll say it again, there isn't a new 60cc saw on the face of the earth that will deliver that price vs. performance ratio. A simple MM and tune and that saw will cut right close with any stock 60cc saw.

 

[Idahonative]

Some interesting info concerning part numbers for the cs-590:

- It shares the same carb as the 600p
- It shares the same ring as the 600p and 620p
- It shares the same muffler as the 600p
- It shares the same crank assy. as the 620p
- It shares the same crank bearings as the 620p
- It shares the same clutch assy. as the 600p and 620p
- It shares the same starter assy. as the 620p
- It shares the same auto oil assy. as the 600p
- It shares the same flywheel as the 600p and 620p

It's impressive, with the 590's price point, how many parts it shares with the higher end models and these are major parts (except the ring). Looks like the only thing it doesn't share with the 600p or 620p is the cylinder, piston kit, coil, crankcase kit, bar, and handle (there may be some other smaller things). If I missed something major, let me know and I will update.

 

[Idahonative]

for the time being i would pull the limiters i only modded the factory deflector when i had mine.Later on if you want to you can add a unlimited coil from a cs 620 the original coil is limited.

IMO, no real benefit in spending nearly $100 to upgrade to an unlimited coil if the saw only has a MM and tune...unless you just like to hear it rev.

 

[Idahonative]

I don't see the purpose of having these discussions if everyone really believes that all of this power equipment is up to par right out of the box, and he factory has left the owner/tuner enough room to dial in the carburetor to give the engine the fuel that it needs with the limiter caps in place. If you can deal with a piece of power equipment, Echo or anything else that runs poorly until it's fully warmed up, and even then is a bit lethargic and not making the power that it should, why even bother being a member here and reading responses from folks who know how to make them work like they are supposed to?

I recently inherited a Husqvarna leaf blower from my father-in-law and found that it was more "in range" within the limits of the factory mixture screws than the Echo leaf blowers I've worked on. I also recently worked on a newer Husqvarna 235 chainsaw and it was pretty close right out of the box. I was still able to help both of them out with a little tuning, but they would have been OK as-is and probably never had an issue with the P/C due directly to being set too lean from the factory.

Steve is correct in his earlier post about the potential of P/C damage to these saws. I have ran into a number of lean-seized Echo chainsaws, but to date haven't seen any string trimmers or leaf blowers with P/C issues directly related to running too lean. For this reason I quit buying used Echo chainsaws off of Ebay, got three in a row that had P/C damage and all had very little run time on them. In most cases if you are patient a new in the box saw can be had on Ebay for only a few dollars more than what used ones will bring, Then, IF you are educated in these things the carburetor can be set correctly before any P/C damage occurs and you'll end up with a chainsaw that will last for many years and provide impressive and reliable service.....FWIW.....Cliff

Can't speak for all of the Echo lineup but the 590/600/620 have a bypass in the carb so lean seizure is avoided. I'm living proof you can fully seat the H needle and not burn up the saw. I'm not recommending doing so, just touching on the point that these saws have some safety built into them.

At least with the 600 series Echo's, I don't understand how someone could burn one up, new out of the box, with proper mix. Still, I totally agree with deleting the tabs and tuning any saw you own.

 

[Cliff R]

I did a quick parts look up and the CS-590 and CS-600 showed the same piston, cylinder, ring and carburetor. The CS-620 shows a different piston, cylinder and carburetor.

The CS-590, CS-600 and CS-620 all use the same flywheel, but all use different coils. The 620 coil is the least expensive of the three at $86 retail, the CS-590 coil is $139, the CS-600 $106. Not sure what the big difference in those coils would be, but I'll bet the CS-590's expensive coil is for sure either rpm limiting or retards the timing at high rpm's.

It would be interesting to know if the CS-620 coil with fit the CS-590?........Cliff

 

[Idahonative]

I did a quick parts look up and the CS-590 and CS-600 showed the same piston, cylinder, ring and carburetor. The CS-620 shows a different piston, cylinder and carburetor.

The CS-590, CS-600 and CS-620 all use the same flywheel, but all use different coils. The 620 coil is the least expensive of the three at $86 retail, the CS-590 coil is $139, the CS-600 $106. Not sure what the big difference in those coils would be, but I'll bet the CS-590's expensive coil is for sure either rpm limiting or retards the timing at high rpm's.

It would be interesting to know if the CS-620 coil with fit the CS-590?........Cliff

Ereplacementparts is showing a different part number for piston kit and also showing the cylinder on the 600p as "obsolete" (A310000910). Does that mean the 600p gets the 620p cylinder now?

I believe the 620p coil will work on the 590 (@jakewells said he did it) but, like I said above, I see no need for it unless you are doing more than just a MM and tune.

 

[jeff taswelder]

Stihl shops down here tune every saw before it leaves the store.
so does the husqvarna shop.

 

[Idahonative]

Stihl shops down here tune every saw before it leaves the store.
so does the husqvarna shop.

Are you on the same page as the rest of us?

 

[jeff taswelder]

i re tune all my saws

edit. page what page

 

[Cliff R]

"Ereplacementparts is showing a different part number for piston kit and also showing the cylinder on the 600p as "obsolete" (A310000910)."

I used the latest serial number range when I looked up the parts for each saw, so earlier versions may have used different P/C's. That's about all the research I'll do on the CS-590 for now, I'll wait till it shows up and spend some time with it and move on from there. As it relates to this thread, rest assured I'll let everyone know if the carb was even close right out of the box. In the same sentence I will NOT run my new saw if it's lean for any reason. That's about the worst thing you can do to a new piece of 2 stroke power equipment, as the fuel carries the lubricant as well, so between high EGT's, high rpm's and lacking lube oil.....piss poor way to bring a new saw into service.......IMHO......Cliff

 

[Idahonative]

"Ereplacementparts is showing a different part number for piston kit and also showing the cylinder on the 600p as "obsolete" (A310000910)."

I used the latest serial number range when I looked up the parts for each saw, so earlier versions may have used different P/C's. That's about all the research I'll do on the CS-590 for now, I'll wait till it shows up and spend some time with it and move on from there. As it relates to this thread, rest assured I'll let everyone know if the carb was even close right out of the box. In the same sentence I will NOT run my new saw if it's lean for any reason. That's about the worst thing you can do to a new piece of 2 stroke power equipment, as the fuel carries the lubricant as well, so between high EGT's, high rpm's and lacking lube oil.....piss poor way to bring a new saw into service.......IMHO......Cliff

I don't think anyone will disagree with you that lube is a good thing for a 2 stroke (or any engine for that matter).

Oh, and put a tach on your new saw, right out of the box, and let us know what it reads.

 

[jr27236]

Great thread on the cs590, but out of all the threads I read, this one has gotten the most vicious at times out of all I've read .

 

[STL028]

This site is awesome. My 590 was set from the factory at 12,630rpm. I haven't changed that yet, but did adjust the l screw so it would start and accelerate as it should. This saw is just what I need. My other saw is a Stihl 028 super.

 

[ColoForester]

Hey everyone,

New member to this site but I have used it quite a bit with finding answers to my questions but I have one that I haven't been able to figure out. Most of my experience is with Stihl, Echo top-handle. This is my first full sized Echo saw.

I have a 590 and I would like to put a full wrap handle on it. We are using them more at work since we bringing our saws up to the USFS standard and I would like to do the same with my personal saw.

So, my question is:

Will the handle from the 620PW fit on a 590? It's my understanding that these two saws are quite similar. The echo customer service said it wont fit but they didn't sound quite sure. Figuring someone on here has at least tried it.

Thanks!

 

[James Miller]

Hey everyone,

New member to this site but I have used it quite a bit with finding answers to my questions but I have one that I haven't been able to figure out. Most of my experience is with Stihl, Echo top-handle. This is my first full sized Echo saw.

I have a 590 and I would like to put a full wrap handle on it. We are using them more at work since we bringing our saws up to the USFS standard and I would like to do the same with my personal saw.

So, my question is:

Will the handle from the 620PW fit on a 590? It's my understanding that these two saws are quite similar. The echo customer service said it wont fit but they didn't sound quite sure. Figuring someone on here has at least tried it.

Thanks!

The 620p full wrap will work on the 590. I like the way they look but don't do much falling so it would be more of a hindrance then a help for me.