Welp, It's official

[slowp]

I always wear 2 pair of socks. Liners and a mid to heavy weight. . I wear unlined leather boots. Until it gets cold.

That's what I used to do until I had to stuff orthotics in my boots. Plus I have a hard time finding the right size of boot.

Keeping feet dry will help prevent blisters. Wear socks that are wick dry. They may cost a bit more but are worth it. Carry some moleskin too if you are having hot spots. Hot spots are pre blisters. Put the moleskin on the problem spot and resock. You can cut out the center of a moleskin patch and put the blister spot where the hole is and that will give protection.

Duck tape also works as a last resort.

 

[lfnh]

ND-
Along with the tree height calc Jolly posted, need to know wedging againt lean. Here's a thread on it. Dent's book Timber Falling and Work Safe BC online pdf covers this to.

Ask someone good to show about nipping spring poles. Them liitle ones really hurt.
At some point, less the better, you'll hang a tree but good. For now, get the skidder to knock it down for you. and don't go leaving it hung.

---

Keep looking up. Make yourself look up. Look up. Look up. Look up. .

And keep your thumb wrapped around the handle bar.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

and wrapped around the trigger. Pop that thumb on a hard push back, like from that 288, and it won't even be good for hitch-hiking a ride. for a long time. can't even sign a paycheck either.

 

[ndlawrence]

Sounds like your boss hasn't either or he wouldn't have hit the lines, lol. Here are a few easy field methods I've picked up over the years. Bet some of these guys have some other good ones too. They are all based on the properties of an equilateral right triangle. Relax, no math involved. Walk out to about where you think the top of the tree will hit. Now, if you were to see yourself and the tree from a side view, and draw a right triangle from you to the trunk, then up to the top of the tree, and then back down to you, if you are standing in the right spot you would have a right triangle with two equal sides. In other words, if the angle from you to the top of the tree is forty five degrees, then you have to be standing as far away from the tree as it is tall, right?

I use three different ways to check this angle. If it is really critical, I have a plastic carpenter's speed square that has a bubble level on one side. I will hold that upand sight along the long side while someone from the side makes sure the bubble is level. If it is level, and the ground is level between me and the tree, and I am looking up that right at the top of the tree, then the top will hit 5-6' behind me, everytime. The 5-6'mis to make up for the height of my eyes, and is a little dependent on the height of the cut, but you get the idea.

A little simpler way that is almost as accurate is to find a four foot or so long stick. Tuck it under your armpit with your arm extended and grip it. Then untuck it and extend your arm as level as you can, and hold the stick up as straight as you can. If you are looking past the tip of the stick and seeing the top of the tree, same thing. It will hit six feet or so behind you. Obviously, this isn't quite as accurate as the square method and takes a little more practice, but will still get ya close.

Finally, if ya just need to get in the ballpark, throw the ole Nazii salute at it, and use your fingertips as a guide. It'll get ya in the ballpark. Keep in mind, this is for level ground, in the hills you have to adjust a little, but the principles still work.

Hope this helps, and who knows, ya might teach your buddy something next weekend. I've won a few cases of beer over the years, it's amazing how many guys have been doing this for years, and still just guess. Jeff

Thanks! I will practice this around the house this week and hopefully go back with some newfound knowledge.

 

[ndlawrence]

That's what I used to do until I had to stuff orthotics in my boots. Plus I have a hard time finding the right size of boot.

Keeping feet dry will help prevent blisters. Wear socks that are wick dry. They may cost a bit more but are worth it. Carry some moleskin too if you are having hot spots. Hot spots are pre blisters. Put the moleskin on the problem spot and resock. You can cut out the center of a moleskin patch and put the blister spot where the hole is and that will give protection.

Duck tape also works as a last resort.

I still need to get a different pair of boots... not sure if I want to fork out the money for chalks or not yet, I know I should but I've got bills to pay too.., but then again if I cut my foot there will be more bills LOL. I'm going to try and read the boot thread when I get a chance but have been too busy this week.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[slowp]

Calks will not keep you from cutting your foot. Your brain should keep that from happening.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Thanks! I will practice this around the house this week and hopefully go back with some newfound knowledge.

You're welcome. Hopefully it made sense. It's kind of one of those things that's easier to show in person than describe.

 

[bustedup]

Bro ......I am not being rude or gonna judge ya in any way however .........I'm gonna ask ya ......and there are reasons ........What style of falling are ya using/being taught ie are you facing and then backing up or are ya using the (GOL) face, bore and release??? It may not seem relevant but for example swinging a stick imo (guys you can jump on me ifn ya wish lol) ifn you using the GOL style is a different ball game. Also wedging in GOL style is different as such and ifn ya using that style then Mr Dents book ain't gonna make a whole lotta sense lol......also some of the cuts guys talk about on here won't work ifn ya using the GOL style


Sorry if this seems rude juss don't want ya (you are really keen and full of energy) to go out and try or use some things that were designed/invented for a different style and different timber and get yourself in the crap or worse hurt

 

[northmanlogging]

If your going to spend a significant amount of time walking logs or beating the brush, calks are worth every damn penny, I don't wear mine all the time while running the skidder, but I miss em when I don't have em on, for falling or anything involving a chain saw, that extra traction and surefooted feel is a blessing. Rubber soles are fine and all but after a day or two of wearing calks your rubber soles will feel like they have been greased.

 

[ndlawrence]

Bro ......I am not being rude or gonna judge ya in any way however .........I'm gonna ask ya ......and there are reasons ........What style of falling are ya using/being taught ie are you facing and then backing up or are ya using the (GOL) face, bore and release??? It may not seem relevant but for example swinging a stick imo (guys you can jump on me ifn ya wish lol) ifn you using the GOL style is a different ball game. Also wedging in GOL style is different as such and ifn ya using that style then Mr Dents book ain't gonna make a whole lotta sense lol......also some of the cuts guys talk about on here won't work ifn ya using the GOL style


Sorry if this seems rude juss don't want ya (you are really keen and full of energy) to go out and try or use some things that were designed/invented for a different style and different timber and get yourself in the crap or worse hurt

I came here for one reason, to learn. Don't apologize for making that happen guys. I'm not sure on the falling terminology, I have been starting with a face cut then backing up? Nothing very fancy... Any books you guys recommend?


Keep in mind the first thing I learned Saturday, I don't know jack. LOL


I'm all ears guys!

 

[northmanlogging]

first things first then, you cutting conventional faces (slope on log) or Humboldt (slope on stump) they both have advantages and disadvantages, conv. makes a lower stump but not so much fun for thinning or falling on steep ground, Humboldt puts the tree on the ground faster, allows for a few more fancy swing cuts, but leaves a higher stump, which can be an asset on steep ground or thinning.

 

[JakeG]

Glad you're enjoying it! To get your mind on the right track with safety and general procedures, type this into YouTube: bc falling standard

There's 15-20 short videos and all in all there is some good info.

 

[ndlawrence]

first things first then, you cutting conventional faces (slope on log) or Humboldt (slope on stump) they both have advantages and disadvantages, conv. makes a lower stump but not so much fun for thinning or falling on steep ground, Humboldt puts the tree on the ground faster, allows for a few more fancy swing cuts, but leaves a higher stump, which can be an asset on steep ground or thinning.

Conventional face. On the ones that need to swing he was cutting a micro "pie" out about 1" thick. Sounds right?

 

[northmanlogging]

This piece of pie is that how much dude is taking for his undercut or that what he's leaving for hold wood?

If that's the undercut you find you have better results and less fiber pull with a more open face figure roughly half the depth of your face cut or so... kinda hard to explain... if thats what he's leaving for hold wood its about right unless the tree is extra big or brittle like cotton wood then you want to leave more

In summary the more open of a face you have the more control your going to have and for longer throughout the decent of the tree, making for hopefully a nice soft landing and no broken wood, a thicker hold/hinge wood helps here to but you run the risk of chairing then.

Study your stumps and look at why the tree did what it did and ask yourself how you can make it better/ more accurate. 9 times out of 10 fallers miss the lay because they screwed up somewhere.

Take the time to prep your escape routes, size it up, gun each one, clean out the face, level the saw for the back cut and keep looking up, when you have room start a wedge, once she commits run like Hel. Make a habit out of these steps and you'll find yourself busheling by the end of the month...

 

[bustedup]

I'd guess NM that he being shown to cut a very narrow face ............I ain't an advocate of that as I know you aint either lol


Missing the lay .......yep something gone astray lol.........could be the gun ......could be the face not cleaned out .......could be an unintentional dutch .........or lol could be the proverbial wind thing lol


ND if you want the theory behind production falling then D Douglas Dent's book is the place to go. The type of face is prob more a geographical thing but as NM says on steep ground then the humbolt is ya friend ................however being able to execute both is a good thing.


Do bear in mind tho that D D Dent's book was aimed and written at the PNW and the pics in it are of fairly big Timber lol but the principles are the same and will work no matter what ya falling.


The fancier swing and finesse cuts do imo work better in softwood as opposed to hardwood (in general before some folks jump on me lol) but that due to the fibres in the wood etc ........nothing can teach ya that young man other than time and experience .........just bear in mind not every stick will behave the same and treat each one on it's own.


Ya will as time goes on add to ya bag of tricks juss don't add to quickly and remember simple is best

 

[Cfaller]

Like bustedup said Doug Dent's Professional Timber falling is a very good read. Also try the Fundamentals of General Tree Work by G.F Beranek. Both these books will bring you up to speed on timber felling lingo.

 

[slowp]

From Lewis County Sirens:

TREE FALLER BLAMED FOR POWER OUTAGE

• Firefighters called to an area off Davis Lane west of Onalaska about 11 o’clock yesterday found a tree which had been cut down and fell the wrong direction pulled down a 230,000 volt power line belonging to Bonneville Power Administration. Lewis County Fire District 1 Chief Mark Conner said he was sent to a nearby house to make sure everyone was accounted for and luckily nobody was electrocuted, nobody was injured, and it didn’t start a fire. Conner said it was part of the lines that run from Mayfield Lake to the various distribution points. The owner of a land clearing company arrived and said he couldn’t find his employee, who apparently had taken off, Conner said. Workers from BPA handled getting tree removed, he said. Electricity in the area was restored, he said.

 

[ndlawrence]

From Lewis County Sirens:

TREE FALLER BLAMED FOR POWER OUTAGE

• Firefighters called to an area off Davis Lane west of Onalaska about 11 o’clock yesterday found a tree which had been cut down and fell the wrong direction pulled down a 230,000 volt power line belonging to Bonneville Power Administration. Lewis County Fire District 1 Chief Mark Conner said he was sent to a nearby house to make sure everyone was accounted for and luckily nobody was electrocuted, nobody was injured, and it didn’t start a fire. Conner said it was part of the lines that run from Mayfield Lake to the various distribution points. The owner of a land clearing company arrived and said he couldn’t find his employee, who apparently had taken off, Conner said. Workers from BPA handled getting tree removed, he said. Electricity in the area was restored, he said.

LOL that wasn't me:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[ndlawrence]

This piece of pie is that how much dude is taking for his undercut or that what he's leaving for hold wood?


Undercut...

If that's the undercut you find you have better results and less fiber pull with a more open face figure roughly half the depth of your face cut or so... kinda hard to explain... if thats what he's leaving for hold wood its about right unless the tree is extra big or brittle like cotton wood then you want to leave more

In summary the more open of a face you have the more control your going to have and for longer throughout the decent of the tree, making for hopefully a nice soft landing and no broken wood, a thicker hold/hinge wood helps here to but you run the risk of chairing then.

Study your stumps and look at why the tree did what it did and ask yourself how you can make it better/ more accurate. 9 times out of 10 fallers miss the lay because they screwed up somewhere.

Take the time to prep your escape routes, size it up, gun each one, clean out the face, level the saw for the back cut and keep looking up, when you have room start a wedge, once she commits run like Hel. Make a habit out of these steps and you'll find yourself busheling by the end of the month...

Thanks, I will do as stated!

I'd guess NM that he being shown to cut a very narrow face ............I ain't an advocate of that as I know you aint either lol


Missing the lay .......yep something gone astray lol.........could be the gun ......could be the face not cleaned out .......could be an unintentional dutch .........or lol could be the proverbial wind thing lol


ND if you want the theory behind production falling then D Douglas Dent's book is the place to go. The type of face is prob more a geographical thing but as NM says on steep ground then the humbolt is ya friend ................however being able to execute both is a good thing.
Gotcha, I will order this book this week and hopefully get some good out of it.

Do bear in mind tho that D D Dent's book was aimed and written at the PNW and the pics in it are of fairly big Timber lol but the principles are the same and will work no matter what ya falling.


The fancier swing and finesse cuts do imo work better in softwood as opposed to hardwood (in general before some folks jump on me lol) but that due to the fibres in the wood etc ........nothing can teach ya that young man other than time and experience .........just bear in mind not every stick will behave the same and treat each one on it's own.


Ya will as time goes on add to ya bag of tricks juss don't add to quickly and remember simple is best

'
Thanks, Bustedup. Not working this saturday so hopefully will get a chance to study up some more before I cut again.