What pump to use on a splitter?

[Jim Timber]

I'm looking at building a splitter and wondering what pump to use?

5x24" ram seems popular, so we'll figure on using that.

I'm poor, which has me looking at the predator 13HP electric start engines. I have a 25% off coupon too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/13-hp-420cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-69736.html

Thoughts?

 

[triptester]

With a 5x24 cylinder you will want at least a 16gpm 2-stage pump for respectable cycle times. The 13hp. engine will handle a 22gpm 2-stage pump nicely but if you are poor the overal cost will jump quickly. Too function properly a 22 gpm pump wil need at least a 15 gallon tank ,a control valve with 3/4"" ports, 3/4" hoses from pump to valve and valve to cylinder, 1 1/4" return hose, and 1 1/4" return filter. Going to a 22gpm pump will double the cost over a 16gpm pump.

 

[Jim Timber]

So who makes decent pumps?

I have a good bit of the materials on hand, so that's not an issue. I can do all the welding and machining in house. I just don't have a grasp on what's what in the hydraulics field. Wouldn't know junk from gold outside of surface finishes, etc.

 

[triptester]

Haldex/Barnes,( now Concentric), MTE. There are several store brands but most are imports especially the aluminum body 2-stage pumps.

 

[GeeVee]

whatever he says...

 

[Beefie]

Triptester nows his stuff. I have one of his spliters and they are awesome. I would go 22gpm and save up a little more for the 15hp motor.

Beefie

 

[OH_Varmntr]

Jim, if you don't post a build thread of your splitter, I'll refuse to ever "like" any of your posts again!

 

[Jim Timber]

I've got some homework to do before I start building anything (thus the reason for this thread). Reading through other build threads, I don't recall ever seeing mention of what pump people used, just the GPM rating of it.

I'm probably going to make another atv utility trailer before I start on it. I might start collecting parts though.

 

[Oliver1655]

What type of wood will you be splitting? You might reconsider the 5" cylinder. Going to a 4" cylinder from a 5" using a 16 gpm 2 stage pump will make a big difference in decreasing your cycle time from 14 sec down to 8.8 sec.

I am using a 4" x 24" cylinder with the pressure relief on the valve set at 2,500 psi using a 16 gpm 2 stage Haldex pump. My cycle time is < 9 sec. 11 hp Greyhound (Harbor Freight) engine. This is 15.7 ton. I split elm, hedge, locust, oak, ash, .... using the 4-way wedge 95% of the time. The key is having a sharp edge on the wedge system & using a "knife" like edge. A wide blunt wedge like most of the box stores sell requires a lot more power to do the same job. My wedge is 20" high & 16" wide. If using a 4-way, Have the vertical edge stick out around 2" before the horizontal edge. Splitting in 2 stages decreased power needed & the stress on the splitter.

 

[FLRA_Dave]

I would go with a 4" ram / 16 gpm MTE. I believe MTE rates most of there 2 stage pumps at 3800 rpm (lower displacement sections). An 8hp - 10hp engine shouldn't have much trouble running the pressure well above 2000 psi. My splitter runs a 4" cylinder, 16 gpm MTE, and a 5.5 B&S. The system pressure is at 1800 psi (factory set - haven't changed it) and there isn't much that I split that it can't handle (no problem with the 40"+ wet cottonwood that I have). If the pressure was ~2500 psi, then I'm sure it would be even easier. I've had thoughts of a 22 gpm, but 16 gpm seems pretty decent.

 

[mn woodcutter]

thanks for all the great information guys! I have been splitting by hand for a few years. While I enjoy it there is always the time that it takes that causes me to want a hydraulic splitter. I was taking an inventory of some of the things I would need. I have a small trailer that I could use, a good running engine from a riding lawn mower, and access to all kinds of cylinders and valves and pumps. all I really need is the heavy iron/steel.

 

[Jim Timber]

I've got a lot of oak, some birch, ash, a good deal of red maple will be coming down, and then the softer stuff like basswood and aspen.

If a couple hundred bucks now, means I don't have to make changes down the road, I'd rather do that. A smaller ram might not be a bad way to go though. I want the biggest pump I can run because I'd like to adapt this into a processor as things progress. I'm not going to go full blown firewood seller, but I anticipate having a good deal of wood to dispose of and this is the most profitable means of removal I've found.

I have a buddy who might be giving me his old car (frame's about to fail), so that'll make this plan change in a hurry if I can run a gear pump.

 

[Oliver1655]

If you go larger than a 16 gpm using 1/2" lines you will need to monitor for heat build up in the hydraulic fluid due to the resistance. Going to a 22 gpm pump will only save you 2 sec on your cycle time. If you can find a 4" cylinder with 3/4" ports & can use 3/4" lines, then a 22 or 28 gpm pump would be great.

 

[Jim Timber]

What if you adapted the smaller ports on the cylinder to use a larger line? You'd have turbulence at the transition, but it would slow the fluid velocity in the hoses.

I mainly want a fast cycle time, but don't want to bog down when I hit something that's already dry.

 

[Oliver1655]

A good question Jim. You will basically have created 2 restrictions which will generate heat & very possible have a squeal or whine. The best option would to find a cylinder with 3/4" ports. I really haven't researched the availability of 4" cylinders with 3/4" ports. Anybody know of a source? I wouldn't mind upgrading my cylinder to one if available.

The 8.8 sec cycle time on mine is about 1/3 less the time of most box store splitter (13 sec). If you had a 4" cylinder with 3/4" ports, 22 gpm = 7 sec, 28 gpm = 5 sec

 

[Jim Timber]

I'm sure they'd make some noise.

Getting a cylinder with removable end caps would solve that problem, as they could be reworked without adverse possible outcomes like a welded unit has.

The cylinders I was looking at last night have 1/4" walls, so it is possible to weld them without growing scale on the back of the weld but it's still a risk.

 

[DavidBrown1212]

I would go cheap on the motor and spend on the pump. Find a motor out of something, the pump is a speciality item.

 

[iowa]

Ya. Don't go with a 5" cylinder! You won't need it for 98% of your splitting needs and only cost you more money with larger pumpand rereservoir. A 4" is great and get a large dia shaft. Like 2". Faster return times and more sturdy. 16 gmp pump and around 9-10hp engine!

 

[fastLeo151]

Good thread guys, been thinking about building one myself....

 

[GM_Grimmy]

M got a 528 25 cylinder and 22 gym pump on my splitter and love it. I also have a 4 way and 6 way wedge that it will just push right through. 6 inch cylinder is the way to go imo. You said pay now or pat later so I'd go with bigger. My Troy built had a 4 inch cylinder and we'll was terribly slow. With it on e day of cuttinging, one day of splitting. Now all done in one day.

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