Tzed250
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I think that is the first time I read that on this site.
I've probably mentioned it ten times in this forum...
.
I think that is the first time I read that on this site.
I've probably mentioned it ten times in this forum....
Great thread guys.
Coupla ideas to add to the mix.
Cool down needed after milling?
If the 441 runs extra hot especially when milling then a proper cool down period becomes extra critical. With a Temp gauge on my 880 I note that it takes a full 2 minutes after milling to come come down to idle temp. If the temp is too high it will sit there for a long time cracking lube and caking it onto the hot surfaces. I'm setting up my small mill to take my 441 so I'm now thinking Temp gauge for that as well.
Gas:
If even a few ounces of bad/sour batch are left in the can then adding any new fresh stuff will makie go off faster and continue to go off every time more is added. Every time I go milling I dump the residual (yet two stroke mix and all) into the subaru and start with completely fresh gas and mix.
Milling mix. I'm using 38 +/- 2 : 1 on my saws. < 30:1 makes me feel sick and covers my chaps with black greasy gunk that I cannot wash out.
I don't think it's just one thing but a combination of several factors.
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I also dump the whole mix in the Mazda's tank(seems to run a little better when I do this though I make sure I have a half tank to a gallon of mix in the car).
I know some guys will not agree with this, but if it where me and I was using a 441 for milling I wouldnt hesitate to use a 20:1 oil ratio with a high end synthetic oil.
Each oil is different, but MX2T is very clean at 16:1 when loads are high.
Also in regard to break in with synthetic oil. I have used synthetic for break in for years. I know of not one two stroke OEM that recommends dino oil for break in. on the contrary synthetic is used as factory fill in many 4 cycle motors and all the major snowmobile OEMS recommend synthetic for their two cycles.
I think the idea that synthetics do not allow an engine to break in is largely based on the idea that they have greatly different film strength than dino oils. They do not. Their benefit in a two cycle is their ability to have high film strength base stocks that still burn with out leaving deposits.
Yes, you will need to re-tune the carb to ensure your not running too lean. The changes are very minimal IME.Be careful using such high oil ratios. Since oil is thicker than gas, you'll have to retune your carb so that you don't run lean. It's usually a bad idea to run too much oil. When the gas vaporizes in your engine, that cools the engine. with less gas in the mix, your engine is going to run hotter not cooler.
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Is it?I get running it rich, but that's just plain silly.
Is it?
Consider that most cart racers run their air cooled two strokes at 16:1.
For a everyday work saw 20:1 isnt needed but when using a 70cc strato charged saw for milling I dont think 20:1 is out of line at all.
Of course I am not speculating as I have actually ran two cycle motors at 20:1 with quality oils and I know they operate cleanly and smoke free given the loads are appropriate for the ratio used.
Yes. Google up KT 100 oil ratio.Really?
Yes. Google up KT 100 oil ratio.
FWIW Yamaha recommends a 25:1 oil ratio for the KT 100, but most racers run 16:1 as the motors make more power and last longer.
And the smoke you see while free reving doesn't have anything to do with synthetics not combusting. It has to do with engine load and temperature.
Your assumptions about synthetics not breaking down as easy as dino oil is a bit of a blanket statement as well and its not even close to the truth. Truth is one of the main advantages of a synthetic two cycle oil is their ability to combust without leaving residue/carbon build up.
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