What would cause this?
- Thread starter blsnelling
- Start date
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Does it have excess clearance between the cylinder and piston? You might put the piston in the cylinder without rings and measure the clearance.
Looks like to me the combustion chamber is not sealed very well and the flame is going past the piston.
ive got 2 redmax ebz8000 piston and cylinders sitting on my floor that i had to replace, they both looked like that saws piston. these strato things run lean, build a lot of heat, 1 of my pistons has a hole in the center and is caved in, the other is just starting to collapse...i believe its the ethanol, one blower used woodland pro for 1.5 years and had little to no carbon on the crown, the other used echo blended and was severly carboned up and broke a ring. the blower which i used woodpro synth oil had no more compression due to the hole and wouldn't start......I have echo pb755 blowers that r not strato, i pulled the cylinders on them last week and they were clean...its only the strato junk im having problems with. the oil is coking the rings too. the piston and cylinders look identical to the ones in your pics. IMHO wood pro synth is worth every penny.
Wild Knight
ArboristSite Guru
I'll post on this thread (because it has been brought up) some of the basics that I have learned and what my friend has seen with over a 100,000 hours using various engine oils in his field.
#1 Stay away from any ratio close to 100:1 no matter what.
#2 Buy quality oils that the manufacturer recommends being mixed in the 40:1 range, give or take, and are designed for air cooled 2 strokes.
#3 Tune your engine correctly and provide good cooling, this is probably the most important, don't let it run hot or lean.
As for specific oils there are lots of good ones. It seems on this site people use a lot of Stihl ultra hp. It is very good one. Belray, redline, echo, pennzoil air cooled, etc are all good too.
As for Amsoil,,,,,,,,,,, Although I have never had an engine related failure using it. This is the worst oil when it comes to forming hard carbon deposits at any ratio. If you run hot and lean you will be sticking rings and doing a lot of cleaning.
#1 Stay away from any ratio close to 100:1 no matter what.
#2 Buy quality oils that the manufacturer recommends being mixed in the 40:1 range, give or take, and are designed for air cooled 2 strokes.
#3 Tune your engine correctly and provide good cooling, this is probably the most important, don't let it run hot or lean.
As for specific oils there are lots of good ones. It seems on this site people use a lot of Stihl ultra hp. It is very good one. Belray, redline, echo, pennzoil air cooled, etc are all good too.
As for Amsoil,,,,,,,,,,, Although I have never had an engine related failure using it. This is the worst oil when it comes to forming hard carbon deposits at any ratio. If you run hot and lean you will be sticking rings and doing a lot of cleaning.
Wild Knight
ArboristSite Guru
what makes an oil specific to air-cooled engines?
The base oil composition and additive package are completely different vs. a marine/liquid cooled oil.
Additive package.
Some oils meet both (boat/marine and air cooled) specifications. Can't remember off hand but tcw3 vs tc ratings or something like that. If I can find the article explaining the differences in the additive package I will post it.
The packages differ due to engine temps, load, running rpms, etc.
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Wow! Sure wish wet still had discussions like this, without all the name calling, and personal attacks. What happened to this place?!
I have and always will like you brad, I think your a very informative guy. Sorry If I offended you in any way man.
Hey, I come across pretty coarse too a lot of times!
