whats the best silky handsaw for my job???

[leadcutter]

hi im wondering whats the best silky hand saw for in-the-tree limb cutting and topping. ive narrowed it down to either the zubat, ibuki, or the kamisorime

any thoughts/suggestions?

thanks

 

[RacerX]

Can you give us some reasons why you've chosen those three models?

 

[leadcutter]

Because they all seem popular and aren't attached to a pole...haha and I want something with a long blade for large diameter branches/topping. I have ruled out the folding models because they don't seem agressive enough or big enough

 

[oscar4883]

I have a Sugoi and it is a great saw, however, the combination of being short and dealing with a lot a broad trees, makes it cumbersome sometimes when it is on the hip. Zubat is nice as well and is slightly less cumbersome.

 

[leadcutter]

have you ever topped a tree with your sugoi? because of its curved blade, im thinking it would be difficult to get a clean and straight notch...true?

 

[flushcut]

Ibuki for wrecking and Zubat for pruning the two handed deal is not worth it IMO.

 

[bomar]

how big of a top are you trying to cut with a handsaw

 

[Jeffsaw]

I've only used a zubat but it sure is great! I don't top with it, just use it for pruning and branches that are in the way when doing a removal. Other tree guys swear by the Silky brand and now I know why.

 

[RacerX]

I use a Sugoi but I don't think that I have ever used it to cut a notch used to top a tree. Usually the Stihl takes care of that. I really like that saw, it's the first for this type that I've owed. Prior to that it was those curved blade wooden handled arborist's saws. The Sugoi is a vast improvement in sharpness. I'm sure just about any Silky saw will be great.

 

[climberjones]

Luv my zubat!!

 

[imagineero]

I have both the sugoi and the zubat. You are right about the curved blades being unsuitable for notching, both have curved blades by the way. For this reason, most climbing courses force you to use a straight blade like the gomtaro which has the same handle and scabbard style as the zubat but a straight blade.

The zubat and sugoi are pretty similar in length, but quite different in power. The sugoi is much more aggressive and faster. I've used both to take every branch and the top out of some pretty tall trees (40'+) when working on sundays and starting early and couldn't make noise. You can do it, but it is way slower than using a 200t. Also it would be nice to be able to make a notch if the handsaw is your only saw.

Shaun

 

[chad556]

The Silky Natanoko is a straight blade saw similar in size to the zubat with the handle similar to the sugoi. It comes in large teeth I think. I was thinking about one but i opted for the zubat for the curved blade and more agressive cutting. I just don't make notches with anything other than a 200T but i think a straight edged saw would definitely be beneficial for that (I am actually thinking about getting a silky gunfighter as a secondary pruning saw). Straight blade saws are more ideal for pruning in close quarters because they have less of a tendency to nick nearby branches accidentally.

 

[leadcutter]

Thanks everyone for their input! My silky ibuki is in the mail! I picked this one because it sounds like it rips wood apart. For those who were wondering, I'm going 2 be topping and removing my nighbors 100' firs this weekend so the diameter at the top is aout 8 inches. I know its going to be a grind with a hand saw but these three trees will be the first I've ever removed with climbing gear (also in the mail) and I know ill be more comfortable at 100' with a hand saw rather than a chainsaw! I'm going to hoist up my chainsaw after topping these monsters and put the hand saw away. This brings up another question I have: WHEN BLOCKING DOWN, SHOULD I DROP 10 FOOT SECTIONS (to get out of the tree faster) OR DROP REGUALR "ROUND" SIZED PIECES??? Please take into consideration my limited expirience with spur climbing...thanks!

 

[imagineero]

holy crap....
I dont know which is going to be more damaging... the harm to yourself from attemtping such a feat, or the harm to your self esteem from the beating you'll take from AS members. Good luck....

Shaun

 

[Jeffsaw]

Leadcutter, I hope you are kidding. If you are not, then don't start on trees of that size.

 

[mic687]

Ibuki for wrecking and Zubat for pruning the two handed deal is not worth it IMO.

I agree 100% Ibuki is a beast for wrecking but the blade is a bit long for fine work. I use my Ibuki back side of the blade for busting off small dead limbs it is a tough saw that when sharp will zip through 4" limbs.

 

[mic687]

Thanks everyone for their input! My silky ibuki is in the mail! I picked this one because it sounds like it rips wood apart. For those who were wondering, I'm going 2 be topping and removing my nighbors 100' firs this weekend so the diameter at the top is aout 8 inches. I know its going to be a grind with a hand saw but these three trees will be the first I've ever removed with climbing gear (also in the mail) and I know ill be more comfortable at 100' with a hand saw rather than a chainsaw! I'm going to hoist up my chainsaw after topping these monsters and put the hand saw away. This brings up another question I have: WHEN BLOCKING DOWN, SHOULD I DROP 10 FOOT SECTIONS (to get out of the tree faster) OR DROP REGUALR "ROUND" SIZED PIECES??? Please take into consideration my limited expirience with spur climbing...thanks!

Brother you bit off a big chunck to start with. A grind? yeah all that and a bag of chips. Man be careful slow slow slow is the way to go. Never climbed on spurs ? well the spurs are easy the flip line is going to kick your butt learning to adjust it on the fly. Be careful comming down on spurs its much more dangerous than going up, much more likley to spur out on the way down. First time blocking down smaller is better, less weight if you screw up. Good luck man be safe.

 

[leadcutter]

I've climbed with my buddy's spurs many of times...I've been about 60 ft up and had a running bowline choker around the tree. I'm going to be using my figure 8 with ears hardlocked out on my climbing rope that will be around the tree (running bowling) and ill step up, advance my flipline, and advance the bowline. (Deadly fall potential of nearly 0) And I'm fully aware of all the saftey freaks on here that are about to post to this thread about how dumb I am...bring it if I get uncomfortable in the tree ill come down and call up the pros...and give them my $1200 worth of gear cuz ill never be using it again. Thanks for the good luck wishes!! Ill be safe!!!

 

[tree md]

I agree, those are too large of trees to be starting out on. I wouldn't send a new guy up a tree that size even with a handsaw and under supervision.

That being said, you have your work cut out for you. I would not even think about attempting to limb and top a tree that size with a handsaw... Just too much work. But hey, if that's what you want to do then by all means, go to town...

On the chunks: You will be dropping chunks, not blocking which is a term that means using an arborist block to lower chunks. I think you will find that it is going to be pretty difficult to push ten foot chunks over unless there is a pretty good lean on the trees. I usually keep it to around 4'-6' pieces once I get into decent sized wood. One option is to tie a rope towards the top of the piece and have someone pull it over if you want to take larger pieces. You can also notch the piece. I prefer to just take smaller pieces and use a snap cut but that's just me.

 

[climberjones]

Ive never been in a tree over 20 FT that had a 0 percent deadly fall rating so be careful and good luck!