Which Saw Should I get? 400C-M, 500i, 661C-M?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Stock the 390 is kind of week. Ported, I'll likely take the 390, simple and easy. The 592 reminds me of a well ported 390, so I'd go 592 if I were to keep the saw stock.

I'm undecided on the 661 vs 592. I like the engine on the 592 a hell of a lot, but the 661 is laid out nicer, cleaner IMHO. The 592 has wires, primer fuel lines, and separate strato throttle body, it's a lot of stuff packed into a small space. Too early to tell on durability, it took Stihl what, six or seven years to get the 661 straightened out.
Thanks.
The 562 I had was the same way in regards to layout. I just bought a 400C and it's much better in that regard. Tech wise I do believe that Huskys ahead of Stihl. Husky buying Redmax in order to get their patents was a great move. Of course Husky was then forced by a court in the EU to share some of it. Never the less Stihls approach to strato saws initially sucked on some models.
 
Well sounds like the 400 is not my answer, I think the idea of a magnesium piston interested me, certainly sounds like a 500 or 661 should be what I look at, and then maybe a 462/400 later on

because the normal chains dull to quick in the hard timbers here, especially in red gum thats been felled a while ago and is dirty, a normal non tungsten chain is dull in a few cuts.
In terms of an older saw, I do really want an older saw to maybe restore/rebuild and just learn a bit more and then also because I have a habit of collecting things, might have to start another thread on whats a good first old saw to start my collection, and learn how to restore/rebuild
I cut alot of Hedge (Osage Orange), most of it standing dead. At 54 lbs per cubic ft. it ain't no softwood. Anyone that has cut seasoned hedge knows what I am talking about. My ms400 with 20" bar, bark box and full comp chisel fly's through it. I have been running saw's sense the early 60's and have never ran a saw with a powerhead that weights under 13 lbs pull as hard as it does. Don't sell it short.
 
Well my Stihl 291 got pinched out of my tool box, and as a result I'm in need of a new saw, and decided why not upgrade to something a bit bigger, now I use a 500i, 661C-M and an 880 at work and they're fantastic saws, but they're big, and considering what i use my personal saw/s for which I'd like you guys opinions, now I'm not a small bloke, I'm a strong 6'3 farmer, I'll be cutting mainly firewood, little clearing, trimming and what not around the farm, I'm in Australia so what I'm cutting is generally very dry, and/or very hard, such as red gum, red box, iron bark, I'll be using tungsten chains, and probably an 18"-20" bar usually, So i guess the question is what saw do you guys think i should be getting, I'm not opposed to getting another saw or two in a little if i do end up cranking up my firewood business, I'll also be wanting to take the saw camping with me when i go 4x4ing, but i can also look at a smaller saw for that purpose too if that would be more suited.
i have 462 500i and 661C, and just picked up a 400, haven't ran it yet, but out of the first 3, i find myself using the 500i more
 
Thanks.
The 562 I had was the same way in regards to layout. I just bought a 400C and it's much better in that regard. Tech wise I do believe that Huskys ahead of Stihl. Husky buying Redmax in order to get their patents was a great move. Of course Husky was then forced by a court in the EU to share some of it. Never the less Stihls approach to strato saws initially sucked on some models.
The 562, 550 and 572 is more simple setup than the 592. The 592 is a bit different.
 
I looked at the 661 when I bought my 500. Huge power head mass difference in the show room, and I knew that working all day with it would be noticeable. I couldn't justify that for the marginal power gain, but I'm in the midwest and our trees aren't really that big anyhow.

I went with the 500 and love it...despite the BS about the air filter. Mine is a little over a year old and has done everything I've asked, so much so my middle of the road saws barely get used anymore (including a 291). I'll reach for the 500 or if I need something smaller....gasp...the electric dewalt I have
 
I looked at the 661 when I bought my 500. Huge power head mass difference in the show room, and I knew that working all day with it would be noticeable. I couldn't justify that for the marginal power gain, but I'm in the midwest and our trees aren't really that big anyhow.

I went with the 500 and love it...despite the BS about the air filter. Mine is a little over a year old and has done everything I've asked, so much so my middle of the road saws barely get used anymore (including a 291). I'll reach for the 500 or if I need something smaller....gasp...the electric dewalt I have
You dont see any fines getting in through the air filter system huh? I just bought one and was wondering if its going to be trouble?
 
You dont see any fines getting in through the air filter system huh? I just bought one and was wondering if its going to be trouble?
No. Because the system is designed to have long service intervals and I don't take it apart to clean it.

I have an outerwears filter sock on my filter element.. I think it was for a 661. Works great to keep the chips and dust out of the filter pleats, there are pics in another thread if you search my posts.

I just blow mine off with compressed air after a weekend of use and its ready to keep rolling. I have taken the filter completely off a handful of times and saw no debris on the inside - paying close attention to cleanliness prior to removal so not to get chips in areas they aren't supposed to be from disassembly.

Idk...I helped engineered the air filter system on some International/CAT trucks and while this system may not be the optimum for performance, it seems to work fine in the environment (not post fire cutting) that I use it in. I'm sure design decisions on it were driven by cost and timing more than performance - after all the saw does make the power it needs so restriction isn't an issue with it.

I use my saw as a tool, not a hot rod...so honestly, I dont really give a **** as long as the saw works. I don't have time anymore to dwell on stuff like this - I trust Stihl has a DFMEA and DVPR which were all well executed on the saw, including the air filtration system. My life is too busy at this stage, so I'm blindly trusting them. If the saw doesn't last, I'll be sure to post back on why - especially if it's debris induced power cylinder failure. But after a year and like 30 tanks of fuel I'm not worried about it for my non commercial use.

I'm betting the system passed the SAE filtration requirements in their internal tests and the saw passed validation testing without issue; time will show how robust their testing is.
 
As long as you’re happy, that’s all that really matters, though hopefully some of the Aussie’s will come in soon and share their advice. I’m in WA, what state are you in?

So posters #13 and #14 should hand in their Waltzing Matilda song sheets and bobbing cork hats at the border?
 
But is it needed ?Do you have a 500?

No it's not needed. It just keeps the filter pleats from getting clogged with sawdust.

And even if that happens, the saw can still breathe. It's just a pain in the ass to clean the filter at that point....

Yes have a 500I. Have not run it hard and long as others here have. I posted that I use Down Corning Silicon Vacuum Grease on the backside of the filter and keeps fines from possibly going around the filter. I gently blow the filter from the inside, when dirty use non chlorine brake clean and spray from the inside. Been doing well so far.

I like what Chris put around the filter to catch the bigger stuff keeping the Stihl to clean the finer particles. Might do that later in the year if I see that the filter is packing up too much.
 
Yes have a 500I. Have not run it hard and long as others here have. I posted that I use Down Corning Silicon Vacuum Grease on the backside of the filter and keeps fines from possibly going around the filter. I gently blow the filter from the inside, when dirty use non chlorine brake clean and spray from the inside. Been doing well so far.

I like what Chris put around the filter to catch the bigger stuff keeping the Stihl to clean the finer particles. Might do that later in the year if I see that the filter is packing up too much.
Ita not just the filter not sealing. It's the fact Stihl didn't use the air injection style filter set up that's used on saws like the 462,400,362 and 261.
 
Ita not just the filter not sealing. It's the fact Stihl didn't use the air injection style filter set up that's used on saws like the 462,400,362 and 261.
This makes me laugh. How do you know the pleated filter doesn't have significantly more surface area to increase durations between services? Or that not servicing it more frequently ends with longer saw life because of less risk from getting debris in the intake during service (which is exactly what was found to be the case on long haul trucks)?

Show me some conclusive data the filter doesn't seal...not just OMG I found some dirt inside when I serviced it and maybe was rough getting it off and jarred some inside!!

To the OP...I agree with the post above on saws and bar lengths. Mag piston has been the wholly grail of performance engines for a while, but not I'd but the 400 over the 500 when the mass isn't that different but power output is.
 
Back
Top