Why aren't splitter wedges pointed or serrated?

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You won't gain much by trying to "minimize" the "required" force... a better tactic is to "maximize" the "available" force.
Six of one, half dozen of the other as a canadien friend of mine says. I do like the idea of a small pushplate, and having that plate designed in such a way that it does not bind on the beam is also an obvious advantage. But if we are asking which wedge will provide the most splitting force, a forward swept wedge or one perpendicular to beam, there can be no argument that the one where less of the wedge contacts the wood at once will "maximize the available force". I dont make the laws of physics, but i damn sure gotta live by 'em.
 
I have had three splitters each with very different wedges. The TW-6 is the least efficient, but it has a log lift!
The three are a 30 year old SpeeCo with a narrow 6"x6"x3/4" (approx.) that flairs at the tail to about 4". Very nice, it is a cutting wedge, and then pops the straight grained woods. I sold this splitter yesterday. The new owner used it for a few hour before buying. Commented on how it cut through knots and then popped it without needing full stroke much of the time.
Next is a SuperSplit HD, also with a small profile cutting wedge. Very effective cutting wedge which reduces the size of the junk splits pile, and will bury you in splits for the cost of a gallon of gas and an hours time.
The TW-6 is a 12" tall x 24" wide four-way "splitting wedge". Large vertical splits are often remain connected above the wedge. Very blunt and poorly suited wedge for smaller stove size splits of knotty wood. I had the four-way wing modified to help with re-splitting. I have less than thirty hours on this machine so time may alter my initial assessment. I rarely hear criticism of TW splitters because they are very well built, but there are better designs. Some threads posted quality or PR problems with some of the other manufacturers and I choose TW without actually seeing or using one. Splitfire design is unique and looks very effective. I almost bought their largest stand-alone. It would have been less initial money and lower fuel operating cost, more efficient wedge/less horse power.
Again, making choices without seeing/using one. I would very much love to try one of the Splitfire's, Built-Rite's, PowerSplit/TimberDevil, and the big Michigan built ones, can not think of the name. Would love to attend a wood splitting get together and try different splitters. Wedge design is certainly a huge factor. My thought is that TW-6 horsepower (18 hp) could be better utilized with a more efficient "cutting wedge" design and wing that drops below the beam.
 
My TW3HD pushes everything through the 4-way, I don't even take it off! I don't care how big, how knotted or if it's oak or what ever, it all goes right through the 4-way!

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NO complaints here!

SR
 
I like a large pusher plate. If you are splitting large dia wood with multi split wedges, you need a pusher plate big enough to force each individual split thru the wedge. Nothing worse than trying to split a large round into 6 pieces only to have the rounds partially split and only half the round goes all the way thru the wedge, leaving two pieces hung together on the wedge. I can see that Spidey's push plate has a round center mounted to the front of the pusher plate and inline with the wedge, but he only has a single split wedge, and the actual pusher plate is larger than his little center part. i suspect if he was to add a 4way wedge that the center spot would push the round thru the wedge and any thing pass the center spot would be pushed by the rest of the pusher plate. I doubt that his pusher plate would be of much use to me as a lot of what I split looks similar to what Sawer Rob is pushing thru his Tw and I use a 6way blade. Dang i would hate to push a couple of little splits out from under that big round and have the rest hung on the wedge just because I had a little pusher plate
 
The paint is starting to wear off the wedge on my supersplitter. Others may have already noticed, but it's new to me. The blade actually looks serrated. They must mill out the grooves to have less surface area on the wood. Pretty smart!20150326_103212.jpg
 
The superaxe design minimizes the forces neeed to split, especially when the top of the round is above the povit point. If you watch you tube video of the superaxe you can see the rounds splitting progressively as opposed to poping. And they are only using a 3 inch ram to achieve it.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVXhAGqYK_U
www.youtube.com/watch?v=E10LUBk-pMQ

Giltrap makes a very pointy wedge which goes through the push plate.
www.giltrapag.co.nz/sa/products/hitches-and-splitters/wood-splitter/

I have not seen the giltrap in action. I think it was stilman who said the superaxe shines in tough wood. Food for thought.
Mr Anderson
 

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