Why would anyone run 100 to 1 premix?

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I understand that you can run outboards or water cooled engines pretty lean. They don't have the high temps of air cooled. I run Suzuki outboards that are auto injection and they don't use much oil. With air cooled two strokes the heat is more intense and the lubrication requirements are not as forgiving.The oil formulation is different because of the application.
In Jenkins book he noted that the best power for the Yamaha's was at approx. 20-1. He experienced lean seize at higher levels.

That's what we are celebrating today. The freedom to do as we want. Please remember any of your relatives who gave their lives for this country and thank you if you served in the military.

But oil burns hotter, so wouldn't more oil = a hotter engine?
 
I have run Amsoil for many years in all kinds of 2-cycle engines from old Mercury outboards to cheap weed eaters. 100:1 mix is fantastic and my 12-year-old Husky 257 has used it most of its life. You will never foul a plug with that mix, but generally you won't with synthetic at any mix. The 100:1 mix is perfectly safe and the engines run unbelievebly fast on it. I run closer to 50:1 now just because I choose to. I have never had one bit of trouble due to the mix ratio.

An old Mercury OB that I had was miserable. It had three carburetors and was a pain to keep tuned. It fouled plugs like crazy if you tried to troll with it. After switching to Amsoil, I could troll with it for hours and then crack it open and run across the lake with virtually no smoke. It never even came close to fouling a plug on Amsoil.

I used to just mix a tank at 100:1 and use it in all my small equipment plus a 5-horse Evinrude boat motor. Fantastic results.

Another dealer that I know, knows a guy that used to run it in a racing dirtbike at 128:1 and never broke his engine down for maintenance until the end of the season.

It used to be that there were two choices with Amsoil-injector oil and 100:1. Now they have four kinds formulated more specifically to how it is used. Just because it says 100:1 on the Saber Professional (recommended oil for chainsaws etc.) doesn't mean that is what you have to use. That is what is so great about it. You can use it for whatever mix you want and use the same mix for all types of equipment without wondering if you have the right mix.

If the oil says it is 100:1, it will do it. It is your choice if you want to use it like that.
 
Timberwolf posted a thread a while back on oil mix and cylinder head temperature. The fuel actually serves to cool the piston, which is what you want. The more fuel you have (fuel: oil), the greater the cooling effect. The more oil (fuel: oil), the less cooling ability the fresh charge has on the piston. According to wolf, 50:1 had the lowest cylinder temp.

If you are running a premium synthetic oil, then I imagine you can get away with 100:1. If you are running high compression or modded equipment where you are turning big RPM's, then the extra cooling capacity may be advantageous.
 
I have a Merc optimax on my boat. It injects oil as its inboard computer sees fit. I am told by my dealer that it will lean itself out to 100:1 as 50:1 is not needed under all operating conditions. I also pay a premium price for optimax oil, as standard 2-cycle supposedly won't work. Who knows if it is a sales line, but at the price 135HP outboard motors cost, I am going to do what the manufacturer recommends...
 
I guess my point is that if Timberwolf says 50:1 is best and Merc and Suzuki outboards mix at approx 50:1 under full load and then rise to as high as 100:1 under partial load then the question still remains, why cut lubrication under load when the risks are so high. We are all free to follow our own desires, do what makes YOU happy. I appreciate the answers and have learned from them.:clap:
 
I would never run a conventional synthetic oil at anything leaner than than 50:1. I have run Amsoil Saber at 100:1 - because it is made to run at that ratio. I have been running my saws at 50:1 using synthetic Mobil 2T and have not had any problems - I only tried using the Amsoil Saber oil as my trials motorcycle was getting too much oil and oozing lots of unburned oil out the exhaust when it was mixed at the recommended 80:1 mix. The manufacturer of the motorcycle said that the Amsoil was safe to run at 100:1 mix ratios and they have even run it as lean as 125:1 with no problems. The trials bike runs at low rpm's and is water cooled and most of the the time - unlike a chainsaw that is run at full throttle most of the time.

The Amsoil Saber is a much more concentrated oil than most oils and it has less "solvent' in it.......therefore you don't need to mix as much of it with the gasoline to provide proper lubrication. If you read the properties of most synthetic oils you will see that they have a "solvent" or "thinning" agent in them so that they will work properly in injector systems. Amsoil Saber is not thinned down for use in injector systems and must be premixed only, and it can be mixed at lower ratios than 100:1. I do not use Amsoil Saber in my saws as I have several quarts of Mobil 2T to use up - but I am using the Amsoil Saber mixed at 100:1 in my leaf blower and trimmers and it works great.....that is what it was specifically made for.....it was not made for racing engines and Amsoil has other oils for that use.
 
Funny you would mention that!
My 'universal" mix is 40:1 with Redline Racing or Amsoil Sabre synthetic oil and there is essentially no smoke with either once the engine is up to operating temperature.

I was running crappy poulan so called full synthetic oil. After my saws got to operating temp, there was no smoke. On hot days, there was zero smoke on cold start up. I just started using Lucas semi-synthetic oil. That stuff is a million times better then crappy poulan stuff! I was going to switch over to Castrol RS-TTS full synthetic oil, but a got a deal on Mobil 1 synthetic oil for one penny a bottle!

I just bought a packet of Amsoil 100:1 to try on my weedeater. I will using it on that, but not on my pricey saws! :givebeer:
 
For all you oddballs out there who think its socialist tell your grandparents that you want them off of SOCIAL SECURITY then run for your life
 
someone has a thread on your comment

I was looking for some info on oil and on that page is a rant about obama, and that where all socialists and I apparently replied on the wrong thread. I think this forum is great as it has paid off big time in fixing my stihl 032av. sorry for the mix up
 
For all you oddballs out there who think its socialist tell your grandparents that you want them off of SOCIAL SECURITY then run for your life

Where the hell did that come from? Dude, this is chainsaws, not political.

Accident or not that was a good reply! I'm still laughing.

Right on! #### this oil crap, lets get some geezers all worked up!




Anyway, I can't think why anyone would want to run their saws at 100:1. There's no point that I can think of.
 
On a serious note though, I did just pick up some saber that came in friday so I just got to use it in my trimmer ,edger and blower yesterday, and must say it was just as good if not even a little better than the ultra. Seemed to give a smoother idle and a little better acceleration. Not a thing wrong with ultra it's just gettin pretty pricey when you use a six pack or two a week. I figure I can save around 40% and it seems to be good stuff, just have to carry a baby bottle around in the truck now instead of those nice little bottles for mixing.
 
Right on! #### this oil crap, lets get some geezers all worked up!




Anyway, I can't think why anyone would want to run their saws at 100:1. There's no point that I can think of.

No i'm not either. A two gallon tank calls for 2.6 oz and I gave it 4oz whatever that winds up at. It is a very slippery oil though, I spilled a little on the shed floor and it was very slippery even after I cleaned it up.
 
Oil = cheap P&C = $$$$

It doesnt make sense to me to want to run your mix with such little oil. Maybe im weird, strange or possibly even wrong, but oil is the lubricant that stops the metal to metal contact in the bearings, crank, rod and P&C. Yea amsoil says 100:1 mix, but they aint footing the bill on a new top end either. Same with any oil company. Its your equipment, run what you think is safe to run. If you want to run 100 to 1, good for you. Im sticking to more oil with 40:1 of Mobil 1 2T
 
Oil = cheap P&C = $$$$

It doesnt make sense to me to want to run your mix with such little oil. Maybe im weird, strange or possibly even wrong, but oil is the lubricant that stops the metal to metal contact in the bearings, crank, rod and P&C. Yea amsoil says 100:1 mix, but they aint footing the bill on a new top end either. Same with any oil company. Its your equipment, run what you think is safe to run. If you want to run 100 to 1, good for you. Im sticking to more oil with 40:1 of Mobil 1 2T

True but running it to rich has adverse effects as well. Neighbor guy is constantly running his toro snowthrower way to rich cause he's old school and constantly having it worked on. Meanwhile my toro spends most of the winter doing his walks and drives.
 
Here is a test put out by Amsoil. It gets merit for how they set it up. Assuming they had an unbiased company determine 'wear', then it seems to be a pretty nice little study. You'll have to zoom in to read the smaller fonts. Sorry, this is the best copy I could get my hands on.
 

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