Wrist injury from starting chainsaw

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skymckinley

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The past couple of times I've started saws (MS440 and MS460s), if the pull cord locks up while I'm pulling it I get a tremendous pain in my wrist which lasts for a few minutes. I don't think that I have particularly weak wrists so I figure I must be doing something wrong. What gives?
 
One thing is to pull the cord out a little bit until you feel the resistance of the pawls in the starting mechanism engage, then a short, fast pull.

If you have the decompression valve, you are probably using it, but if not, start using it.

When you say "locks up" what do you mean?

How are you starting it? Ground start, drop start, between the legs start?
 
Thanks for your prompt response!

One thing is to pull the cord out a little bit until you feel the resistance of the pawls in the starting mechanism engage, then a short, fast pull. ?

I'll give this a shot.

If you have the decompression valve, you are probably using it, but if not, start using it.

I have been, and that seems to help.

When you say "locks up" what do you mean?

The pull cord gets about half way out and then abruptly stops. The engine doesn't do anything.

How are you starting it? Ground start, drop start, between the legs start?

Between the legs. If the cord locks up while I'm trying to start the saw I resort to drop starting it because it seems to be easier on my wrists.
 
The past couple of times I've started saws (MS440 and MS460s), if the pull cord locks up while I'm pulling it I get a tremendous pain in my wrist which lasts for a few minutes. I don't think that I have particularly weak wrists so I figure I must be doing something wrong. What gives?

You constntly have to exercise to keep your wrists in good shape. See a trainer for good specfic exercises.
One thing my guy tells me is to hold your arm out and with a tight wrist make the alphabet by waveing you hand. Get it? Give it a shot.
 
A trainer? Hmm... just need a better starting technique.

Try the old foot through the rear handle with the saw on the ground... that way the saw is firmly planted, and your wrist is not absorbing any shock while you pull...

Gary
 
A trainer? Hmm... just need a better starting technique.

Try the old foot through the rear handle with the saw on the ground... that way the saw is firmly planted, and your wrist is not absorbing any shock while you pull...

Gary

I honestly can't. Boot don't fit in the handle. Its not the starting of the saws that I have problems with anyway.
I have all sorts of people working on me. Not really trainers.
 
Maybe you should look at installing a D ring starter handle like the chainsaw racers do. It would give you better purchase with your hand and would probably minimise strain. I have thought about puting them on my 88's because they can really be hard to get moving.
 
How come they don't fit the EZ start system on the big saws?
The smallest saws with the least need for it get the EZ system and the bad boys don't.
Don't make sense to me
 
This topic caught my attention. I have developed a wrist problem for more than one year now and my doctor said it will not go away easy. Looks like I have stretched a tendon or so in the past that causes chronical problems after serious effort (lifting, starting a saw, ...)to the point that I loose lot of strength. Most of the times, it takes a few days to get back to normal.:mad:
sure sucks for starting heavy saws, so I have to be pretty careful (starting on the ground most of the time).
 
+1 for the "D" handles.

I put them on most of my saws anything over about 80cc. Esp importaint when compression gets bumped up.

The small starter handles get held down past the second joint in the finger so put more strain on the tendons. Also only 2 or 3 fingers take all the strain. A "D" handle moves the hold point up closer to the first joint of the fingers allowing the fingers to wrap around and lock off this way too all 4 fingers spread out the stress.

Another trick too that I use on really high compression saws >200psi to make them a little easier to start is to drill out the decompressor, the small exit hole on the side if enlarged makes it less prone to kicking off in the middle of the pull. On bigger 120cc plus saws I have even drilled a couple extra bleader holes in the decompressor to keep them from kicking off under compression alone.
 
I honestly can't. Boot don't fit in the handle. Its not the starting of the saws that I have problems with anyway.
I have all sorts of people working on me. Not really trainers.


I have trouble with putting my foot through the handle also. I put a wedge or a piece of wood through the handle and stand on that.
 
Easy bet is Places that sell skidoo, seadoo or ATV products. Often they have cheep replacement D handles in a selection of funk colors for 5 to 10 bucks.
 
one thing to keep in mind about the decompression valve is it will pop back up if you get any combustion at all, sometimes without being very noticeable. If your pull cord is stopping mid pull then there's a good chance the button popped up between pulls and you weren't aware. Try getting in the habit of checking it in between every pull. A coworker of mine broke a finger trying to start an 088 when the pull cord stopped mid pull. If you get a "tremendous pain" in your wrist after this has happened my guess is that you probably injured it when this happened.
 
Is there something wrong with the recoil mechanism on these saws? We have a couple very-well-abused 044s where I work (without compression release) and I've never once had one lock up or pull back hard on me. But I do always make sure the piston is at TDC before giving it a good dedicated pull, which I think is critical. I have had my 660 pull back hard on occasion if I don't do this, but it also has an Elasto-start handle which mitigates some of the shock.

Also, what is this business of "between-the-legs" starting? Maybe it's just a different description for something that I in fact do myself sometimes, but it just sounds dangerous. I'd like to see a picture of what is meant by this. Generally I drop-start all my saws except for the 090 since it's so bloody heavy and big that it's easier to stand on the handle and pull. That saw HAS beat me down a few times, once bruising my right knee quite badly

And regarding D-handles, I have been advised before that they are even worse to use in a situation where a severe kickback is possible, because your hand is enclosed in the handle. I personally don't see that as being any worse than the post of a T-handle being between my fingers though. But I did have a 6-HP lawn mower engine with a D-handle backfire once on me (ignition timing was off), and it ripped the handle out of my hands so violently I thought it had broken every finger on that hand. That isn't to say a T-handle would have been better.

I developed tendonitis and mild Carpal Tunnel Syndrome in my wrists when I worked grading blocks at a fingerjoint mill a few years back, and it still bothers me if I get doing something repetitive or with a lot of vibration. After a good day of CSM-ing, I have next to no strength (and sometimes feeling) left in my hands and wrists from the constant pressure and vibration of pushing the mill. Something the physiotherapist showed me to help alleviate tendon-related wrist pain is to hold your arm at shoulder level in front of you, palm out like a traffic cop giving the "stop" sign. Then pull back on the tips of your fingers, pulling the back of your hand towards your elbow. You'll feel a good stretch at the underside of your wrist, and it'll hurt a bit at first, especially if it's inflamed. But just pull until it starts to hurt and then hold for 15-30 seconds at a time, and repeat throughout the day. You can also try turning your arm over and doing it with your hand pointing downwards. This procedure stretches out the tendons a little bit and just loosens things up like any good stretching does, and helps lessen the pain somewhat for me anyway. It sounds like it might have an effect similar to the outstretched alphabet exercise previously described, albeit more forcefully.
 
mate i know exactly what you mean that same thing has happened to me twice over the last few years with my little 034 and it hurts .
so if it helps you aint the only one .
the saw will start a hundred times no probs then when you least expect it it tricks ya and just goes solid half way through the pull and then you feel like your arm is an inch longer
when it happens it is like when an old kick start bike kicks back
 
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Guys with big feet...try this for the on the ground start:

Take a look at the rear handle of the saw..the flat bit that protects your right hand. See...it's flared out quite a bit on the right side...

Put the saw on the ground, kneel with your left knee touching the saw ( or however close is comfortable for you), put your right foot OVER the handle so your HEEL is holding the rear guard down on the flare, hold the top handle with a strong straight arm, everything is locked in tight, chainbrake on and start it up! Use those shoulders and your back, not just your massive forearms...technique wins.:cheers:

BTW even my size 5 twinkle toes won't fit through the handle with steel toes on:chainsaw:
 
sorry bernie but this is not from starting method i have started a saw or outboard or other pull start machines thousands of times i start my saw on the ground ALWAYS with my foot on it and that wont help stop this happening .
it happens midway through the pull of the rope the thing just locks solid now some thing has to give and in all the muscle groups being used to pull the start cord the wrist is the weakest link and thats what cops the jolt and it hurts .
ok i am 53 and its happened to me 2 or 3 times in my whole life and every time with this one saw .
i may have a touch of RSI in my right wrist ( no smart comments please ) from years of cutting hardboard underlay with a stanley knife , i suppose this adds to the problem.
but the main thing is when it happens you are never ready for it and thats when it gets ya .
the closest i can compare it to is a motorbike kicking back maybe its the timing a tiny bit out i dont know , maybe next time if there is a next time it will spur me into action to find the cause
 
Ok, so its a compression thing by the sound of it....are you anticipationg the 'lockup' and perhaps not giving the pull all the effort through the shoulders that it needs to get past the compression, and getting caught with the jolt???

Several others have made good comments, the decomp button, pulling the cord slowly till the pawls engage...

Hope you crack the problem...
 

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