How Did I Damage My Saw?

[steve147]

I am a light chainsaw user - firewood, property clean-up etc. and just bought a new Dolmar PS5105 to take over full time duty for my vintage saws. I love it!

While cleaning my saw after cutting, I noticed that the chain catch looked like it got nicked by the chain and the side of the crankcase, near the front, had a little gouge in it too.

I am wondering how I managed to do this? Am I unknowingly twisting in the cut?

I usually check chain tension every time I fill up with fuel, keep the bar lubed, and the chain has never slipped of the sprocket during use.

I was switching between Stihl RS3 and Oregon Vanguard 72V chains.

 

[Yoopermike]

Pics? Sounds like normal wear and tear to me. Also congrats on selecting a fine saw!

 

[steve147]

Here's some pics.

In the third image you can see the nick on the crankcase - I've already touched it up with some paint - I'm very OCD about tools.

Thanks for your help!

 

[HarleyT]

Show a pic of the bar/chain on the saw.

 

[Yoopermike]

Looks normal, I have those marks on all my saws, the side marks more so than the chain catch. How do you tighten your chain??

 

[Yoopermike]

Alot of people do twist a little in the cut, its human nature to grab a saw a little left justified with your left hand if your a right hander to "balance" the saw. If your a south paw thats a bit different. Pay attention to where you put your hand next time you cut. I bet its not exactly centered .

 

[steve147]

To tighten the chain, I'll loosen the bar nuts a little bit so the bar can move. Then I'll adjust the tension until when I pull gently on the chain in the center of the bar a little more than half of the drive tooth shows.

I'll grab a picture with the chain/bar on and the cover removed later today.

I was doing a lot of limbing with cedar. The branches are stiff so I wonder if a couple managed to get wedged under the chain and get it off it's normal path?

 

[steve147]

Alot of people do twist a little in the cut, its human nature to grab a saw a little left justified with your left hand if your a right hander to "balance" the saw. If your a south paw thats a bit different. Pay attention to where you put your hand next time you cut. I bet its not exactly centered .

I'll have to keep an eye out for this! When I watched timbersports I didn't understand how there could be any skill involved - now having some time on equipment myself I realize that cutting trees requires a lot of practice and skill.

 

[wde_1978]

The chain guide plate is nicked too, or so it seems.
A bit too loose chain will do that.
Cutting with the upper bar side will cause the chain to "wander" too.

To tighten the chain, I'll loosen the bar nuts a little bit so the bar can move. Then I'll adjust the tension until when I pull gently on the chain in the center of the bar a little more than half of the drive tooth shows.

Go tighter, 1/3 visible drive link, 1/2 at most whilst using little force to lift it up.

Congratulations on Your new saw!

 

[jackjcc]

Most manuals state to tighten until it requires two gloved hands to rotate the chain. That would be when the chain is cold.

 

[old guy]

Most manuals state to tighten until it requires two gloved hands to rotate the chain. That would be when the chain is cold.

That is too tight!

John

 

[wde_1978]

This one is out of a PS-6100 manual , the PS-6400/7300/7900 and PS-351/421 manuals say pretty much the same.


This one is from a Sachs-Dolmar 112/114/117/120 manual.



You go ahead and write whatever bashing You want (not any ONE person in particular, but someone not agreeing with me and/or my practices), but I NEVER wear gloves when tightening my saws chains - if I can't pull a chain bare handed without hurting myself then something must be wrong!

All the manuals insist to wear gloves because of those that put on their chains backwards and over tighten them!

 

[HuskStihl]

You didn't damage u'r saw. It's totally fine.

 

[ropensaddle]

That is normal that area is gonna get marred up a bit unless it stays on a shelf. I have wore a chain catcher out on my prior 372 but it had 1000s of hours use! That area gets chips saw dust sometimes rock and dirt and occasionally the de-railed chain thrown at it. I don't sweat the small stuff my saws after a year are scratched up to beat the band but then most times i'm using them daily.

 

[rob066]

I'm very OCD about tools.

You will be putting on alot of paint on a chainsaw if you use it

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

This is from not tightening the chain as it stretched throughout the first day of using it. They stretch a little bit as they break in. It can take a few cuts and your chain will be loose enough to nick up the case like that. Your saw is just fine but if it continues to happen it won't take very long to rash it up so bad that it will kill the value of it. Plus you'll eventually throw a chain with a risk of it either whacking your leg or cutting a hole in the fuel tank.

 

[steve147]

This one is out of a PS-6100 manual , the PS-6400/7300/7900 and PS-351/421 manuals say pretty much the same.
View attachment 453003

This one is from a Sachs-Dolmar 112/114/117/120 manual.
View attachment 453004


You go ahead and write whatever bashing You want (not any ONE person in particular, but someone not agreeing with me and/or my practices), but I NEVER wear gloves when tightening my saws chains - if I can't pull a chain bare handed without hurting myself then something must be wrong!

All the manuals insist to wear gloves because of those that put on their chains backwards and over tighten them!

This process seems to work very well - holding the bar up. I should re-read the manual

 

[steve147]

You will be putting on alot of paint on a chainsaw if you use it

Absolutely haha - once the "newness" wears off I think I'll become more reasonable

 

[steve147]

Show a pic of the bar/chain on the saw.

 

[steve147]

It sounds like my issue is tightening the chain - I'll make sure to stop more frequently to make adjustments rather than waiting to fill up

Thank you all for the help