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And to the OP, if you feel like you want to spend some pretty good change two man saws are always neat, I actually have a couple two man saws on my list to purchase.
ADLM
 
Some piston/cylinder kits are kinda iffy on ebay but if you wait long enough you'll find them. I wouldn't pay too much for a 306 that needs a P/C because they cost as much as I can get the whole saw for.
The Greek guy on Ebay carries a good selection of piston kits /rings etc.at non telephone directory #'s
 
Back a page or two...the SP 60 is a very nice 60 cc saw that also has good anti-vibe so they are comfortable to operate as well. Most parts are readily available though some items, like the anti-vibe kits can be a bit expensive.

I have one poorly repainted SP60 that I use from time to time, one nice SP60 with the cold weather kit that looks good but is a little weak on compression, and the DX60 which was a slightly modified SP60 that was mostly available overseas.

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Mark
 
Back a page or two...the SP 60 is a very nice 60 cc saw that also has good anti-vibe so they are comfortable to operate as well. Most parts are readily available though some items, like the anti-vibe kits can be a bit expensive.

I have one poorly repainted SP60 that I use from time to time, one nice SP60 with the cold weather kit that looks good but is a little weak on compression, and the DX60 which was a slightly modified SP60 that was mostly available overseas.

View attachment 531898

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Mark
Just curious, but what makes the cold weather kit?
ADLM
 
Notice the wider air filter cover, and the duct over the muffler to direct warm air to the airbox on the saw. The rubber grip, also found on the DX model provided some additional relief for the hands, as did the extra foam padding on the front handle.

There was also a cold weather kit for the CP125 saws with a special ducted muffler and a fine brass mesh air filter element. Note that the ducted muffler is not blowing the exhaust into the airbox, just allowing the intake air to pass over the muffler to warm it up before it goes to the intake.

SP60 - the screw and jam nut on the back allow you to adjust an internal baffle to control the flow of heated air. I put it on the old repainted SP60 to get some photos.

DSC02934.JPG

CP125 kit - the duct on this one is just a tube coming off the muffler. Again it does not direct exhaust to the air box, just air that is warmed coming over the muffler.

DSC06834.JPG

Theoretically the SP60/80 kit would also have the fine brass air filter to withstand the heated air.

Mark
 
I'm really learning a lot from all of you guys and I really appreciate all of the help and resources! What kind of oil should I use for the chain on my Homelight? I've also noticed a lot of my oil is dripping down my guides and not guide making it into the bar, is that normal?
 
Take your bar off and check the oil holes in the bar arent plugged with saw dust. I just run cheap bar oilmost the year and winter grade when its mega cold. Now the oil to mix with your fuel, i spare no expense full synthetic for me.
 
Notice the wider air filter cover, and the duct over the muffler to direct warm air to the airbox on the saw. The rubber grip, also found on the DX model provided some additional relief for the hands, as did the extra foam padding on the front handle.

There was also a cold weather kit for the CP125 saws with a special ducted muffler and a fine brass mesh air filter element. Note that the ducted muffler is not blowing the exhaust into the airbox, just allowing the intake air to pass over the muffler to warm it up before it goes to the intake.

SP60 - the screw and jam nut on the back allow you to adjust an internal baffle to control the flow of heated air. I put it on the old repainted SP60 to get some photos.

View attachment 531903

CP125 kit - the duct on this one is just a tube coming off the muffler. Again it does not direct exhaust to the air box, just air that is warmed coming over the muffler.

View attachment 531907

Theoretically the SP60/80 kit would also have the fine brass air filter to withstand the heated air.

Mark
That is an interesting idea for sure, I guess that would keep you from having to tune for colder temperatures but I also feel like it might be too hard to keep a stable temperature in the air box
Nonetheless, I have added one of those to my ever growing list of saws/parts that I must have for my collection. Thanks for all the info
ADLM
 
So I pulled the fly wheel cover to check to make sure nothing was obstructing the flywheel. I didn't see anything other than a bunch of saw dust. Do you think that's the reason it is smoking?
 

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Wouldn't hurt to clean it. That thing is filthy. Wipe it down or use compressed air.

I'm glad someone else thinks the same thing lol, I've never looked inside of one before so I didn't know what to expect. What would you suggest wiping it down with? Just a towel or something?
 
Blow it off with compressed air if you can be careful with some detergents like purple power theyll fade or remove the paint
 
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