flue heat extraction

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pook

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fluegas is cooled by MAGIC HEAT or similar so to gain room heat
 
theoretically, extracting flue heat means you would be cooling the gases in the flue, thereby creating a cooler surface for creosote to adhere to.

in other words, you'd be making your flue load up with croesote.
 
theoretically, extracting flue heat means you would be cooling the gases in the flue, thereby creating a cooler surface for creosote to adhere to.

in other words, you'd be making your flue load up with croesote.
i love theoretix! but if theres no creosote to stick?
 
ive got one use it all the time sweep stove pipe oncw a year and burn a creosote log every month no problems just have to no possibility is there and take precautions
 
theoretically, extracting flue heat means you would be cooling the gases in the flue, thereby creating a cooler surface for creosote to adhere to.

in other words, you'd be making your flue load up with croesote.

Not necessarily. It depends on the temperature of your flue gasses to start with. If you've got a hot fire, and the gasses leaving the flue are at 300 or 400 F, you're wasting a lot of energy. You can recover some of that heat, and still have the flue gasses hot enough to prevent condensation and creosote buildup.

I have five feet of single wall steel stovepipe between my stove and the ceiling box ( above that it's SS double-wall chimney). And, I have an array of small 12V fans that blows air on that stovepipe, but only when the surface temperature of the pipe is above 230F. ( I've got a 230F snapswitch on the stovepipe near the top that turns on the fans). My stove is an EPA approved Quadrafire.

This pulls out a lot of heat that would otherwise be lost. After a full heating season last year with this setup ( about 90% woodstove and 10% furnace heat for the season) I had about a quart of granular deposits when I cleaned the flue in the spring. Not bad at all.

If the fans ran all the time ( with no regard to stovepipe temperature) , it might be a problem.


Phil Marino
 
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Not necessarily. It depends on the temperature of your flue gasses to start with. If you've got a hot fire, and the gasses leaving the flue are at 300 or 400 F, you're wasting a lot of energy. You can recover some of that heat, and still have the flue gasses hot enough to prevent condensation and creosote buildup.

I have five feet of single wall steel stovepipe between my stove and the ceiling box ( above that it's SS double-wall chimney). And, I have an array of small 12V fans that blows air on that stovepipe, but only when the surface temperature of the pipe is above 230F. ( I've got a 230F snapswitch on the stovepipe near the top that turns on the fans). My stove is an EPA approved Quadrafire.

This pulls out a lot of heat that would otherwise be lost. After a full heating season last year with this setup ( about 90% woodstove and 10% furnace heat for the season) I had about a quart of granular deposits when I cleaned the flue in the spring. Not bad at all.

If the fans ran all the time ( with no regard to stovepipe temperature) , it might be a problem.


Phil Marino
SNap Switch eh!? is that an actual product for measuring exhaust temp!?!?! Cuz if so..i want one! lol... i was thinking about a Draft induction setup that i would LOVE to have a switch like that..
 
SNap Switch eh!? is that an actual product for measuring exhaust temp!?!?! Cuz if so..i want one! lol... i was thinking about a Draft induction setup that i would LOVE to have a switch like that..

I got mine from Grainger's ( grainger.com ) which is an industrial supply place. There's a store near me or you can order online. It's called a snap-disc control and cost $5.20. The Grainger part no is 2FBV3 - you should be able to look it up on their website. This one "opens' on temperature rise, so I have a relay that turns on the fans. But, they sell them that close on temperature rise, also , so you can just run the power to the fans directly through the switch.

The switch is held against the stovepipe with two sheet metal screws, with some heat sink compound between the sensing surface and the stovepipe. (probably not really necessary, but I had some). I'll post a picture later today. You can sometimes find these switches on Ebay, also.

They also make adjustable switches ( you can adjust the turn-on temperature within a certain range) , but they're much more expensive - about $20.

Phil
 
Some high temperature wire might be in order due to the heat from the stove pipe.

I forgot to mention that - I use teflon insulated wire. I tested it with my temperature-controlled soldering iron set to 850F - no hint of damage to the insulation - so it should be OK.

Phil
 
Add the OP to your ignore list now. You will thank me later. He has worn out his welcome over on Hearth.
thankfully, here there seems to be room for scientific discussion ,pro or con, beyond hitting the ignore button. Why have u posted this if it sayz nothing about flue heat extraction?
 
Just like that one - except that particular one has a max temperature setting of 130F - not nearly high enough. You want one in the 220 -250 F range ( or even higher)

phil
the MH knocks the flugas temp to ~300*f pipe surface temp which is about 450*f actual gas temp ithink. If the gas coming out the top of the chimni is below 212*F water condensation happens inside the chimni
 

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