LOL! its ok to cool the fluegas with homemade fan+thermostat but not ok to use a UL listed MH. on the other hand the yukon is ok because its ul listed as a unit?:yoyo:
flue heat extraction
- Thread starter pook
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Nelson2
ArboristSite Lurker
This is quite foolish - trying to rationalize a couple degrees of heat loss of a couple of square feet of flue pipe over 2-4 feet between the furnace and the chimney. Any mechanical engineer with an hours or so time should have no trouble determining the heat content of the air mass flowing from the fce (from fan limit control data), to the chimney. I suspect that the temperature drop from 3-4 feet of 6" exhaust ducting, even with a very efficient heat sink will transfer only a small amount of heat from the ducting, to the heat sink, to the surrounding air while maintaining sufficient flow/draft). I suspect that the payoff of trying to do so is very, very small, however, as with anything, given the correct responses to the real life variables, it will pay off in the end.
Will it contribute to creosote deposits in your flue? I have no idea. The term "generally speaking" means little with the myriad of variables with this sort of problem.
IMHO, try it if you want, it probably won't contribute to creosote buildup (due to the insignificant temp drop of the total average air flow through the duct) on the interior of the flue, and will probably cost more to implement than benefit. On a long enough timeline, however, it will pay for itself, but it must be done right.
It's kind of like why heat exchangers on dryer exhausts never caught on. They brief well, but don't translate into real world savings.
Will it contribute to creosote deposits in your flue? I have no idea. The term "generally speaking" means little with the myriad of variables with this sort of problem.
IMHO, try it if you want, it probably won't contribute to creosote buildup (due to the insignificant temp drop of the total average air flow through the duct) on the interior of the flue, and will probably cost more to implement than benefit. On a long enough timeline, however, it will pay for itself, but it must be done right.
It's kind of like why heat exchangers on dryer exhausts never caught on. They brief well, but don't translate into real world savings.
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the MH extracts lotta heat when the stove is overfiring which will control the overfiring somewhat like a barodamper both which are automatic unlike a key damper. Laynes69 caddy furnace currently has both key & baro dampers installed? Yukon has tubular heat exchanger in secondary chamber which CANT BE UNSAFE AS A MAGIC HEAT [supposedly] & a barodamper after. Both the MH & the baro are taboo to the EPA stove burner,lol, but lately ive been reading many posts about overfiring stoves due to mostly operator error.
if i was Laynes, I'd intall a MH + a baro upstream= MH would slow the fire so the baro wouldnt flap as much & suck out the room air/heat.
MH controls the fire in my sawdust burner furnace currently & keeps it from overfiring which is critical to my setup.
Highbeam
ArboristSite Guru
Anytime a poster includes the term "duh" in a post, you have to assume he is a putz until proven otherwise.
My hearthstone stove with the shortest allowable flue frequently (more than half the time) spews 800+ degree flue temps measured 15" above the collar. I believe that some of this is waste heat. Some of it is used to drive the efficient combustion of a modern EPA stove.
I really do hate to agree with pook but I see a wood furnace's heat exchanger as a glorified MH style exchanger. The similarity in function is not slight and I do not believe is a coincidence.
In my years of reading pook's drivel, I would have been better off using the ignore function.
My hearthstone stove with the shortest allowable flue frequently (more than half the time) spews 800+ degree flue temps measured 15" above the collar. I believe that some of this is waste heat. Some of it is used to drive the efficient combustion of a modern EPA stove.
I really do hate to agree with pook but I see a wood furnace's heat exchanger as a glorified MH style exchanger. The similarity in function is not slight and I do not believe is a coincidence.
In my years of reading pook's drivel, I would have been better off using the ignore function.
vogelzang dont recommend MH for EPA stoves. Why? "because they wont work" in an ideally perfect stove/chimni setup, BUT wind does blow & affects the draft so NOTHING is ideal. Barodamper regulates the draft but how is it affected by a supertight house? MH wont work when EPA stove is working normally but WILL WORK WHEN THE STOVE IS HOTTER THAN NECESSARY, get it? Lastly, if the EPA stove burns so clean, why is the MH addition such a taboo? duh
Been reading lotta posts about overfiring lately, kids need an alarm to tell them when to turn the key damper maybe connected to the iphone, LOL
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logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
Practical science based on reality and engineering is fine. Do the "heat loss" thing until you don't come down for breakfast.:deadhorse:
BUTT:
PUTZ = DUH is undisputable.:agree2::agree2:
BUTT:
PUTZ = DUH is undisputable.:agree2::agree2:
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I am requoting only to preserve the relevance of my statement before it gets mired. By attacking me & posting your vague statement I can only hope a reader can read between the lines= If u have a comment about practical science & engineering why dont u use facts instead of baselessly assuming that u actually might have an idea?
years ago u tested your old frostfree fridge with a KIL A WATT & Proclaimed its efficiency. I mentioned u were testing at the time of year when the air was least humid so the defroster wouldnt work as much. Did u ever retest during humid weather or get a new fridge? Lately , I read u somewhat understanding the MH & maybe defending it? Even Craig has done similar but it dont matter who says what cause the proof's in the pudding & most arguments i get are from insultors who make no points & never used them! VCburner has MH installed on his EPA & hasnt removed it. Bottom line is = the MH wont blow unless the stove is overfiring.
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