Falling pics 11/25/09

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Nice clip Jameson. I see you wear eye gear. Do you usually?

I didn't myself until about a year ago. That and ear plugs. I got tired of #### in my eyes all the time and constantly saying, "what?" The plugs knock the sound down enough, but I can still hear the tree.
 
I have no pictures.

I guess I did it right because the outcome was what we wanted.

There was a horizontal leaner across the road, with a springpole underneath holding it up. I cut as much as I could reach off the top, then wallowed through the snow, stomped out a platform at the base, and cut the bigger tree off at the stump. The springpole did not spring, the tree went straight down on top of it and stayed.

I was worried that if I cut the springpole first, the bigger tree would roll.
Does this sound logical?

We'll be back out again tomorrow, but with some equipment.
 
Found a snag that needed felling today. First actual snag I've felled. Was just the lower part of the trunk, perhaps 8 metres tall, but fairly thick by my standards.

It kinda uh... bounced when I hammered the wedges in. A bit interesting.

The stump turned out ugly to say the least, but at least it landed where I pointed it safely and without issues.

dsc00503e.jpg
 
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Nice fish Ted.

Jameson looks like you had a pretty good day cutting for money.
 
Found a snag that needed felling today. First actual snag I've felled. Was just the lower part of the trunk, perhaps 8 metres tall, but fairly thick by my standards.

It kinda uh... bounced when I hammered the wedges in. A bit interesting.

The stump turned out ugly to say the least, but at least it landed where I pointed it safely and without issues.

dsc00503e.jpg

Never "hammer" wedges into a snag , the shock going through the tree can send a top/limb down asap! and same go's for the Holding wood , when your driving those wedges home into a rotten core , that tree can and usually will break off the stump and go what ever direction it wants . Assesing snag's is.... well different then working a block and setting your lay , dont fight and struggle with snags against there lean!! Pick the strongest lean you have to work with and go from there(stay clear from wedges if possible) . And work with the tree when your driving wedges , watch the motion of the tree (You smack the wedge the momentum travels to the top and will release preassure from the back cut , so all you gotta do is time the tree and then driving wedges become's alot less work ) Well just my .02
Stay safe!
 
Found a snag that needed felling today. First actual snag I've felled. Was just the lower part of the trunk, perhaps 8 metres tall, but fairly thick by my standards.

It kinda uh... bounced when I hammered the wedges in. A bit interesting.

The stump turned out ugly to say the least, but at least it landed where I pointed it safely and without issues.

Rope and pull, if you have to deal with the dead leaners against their natural direction. Saves with the brain damages.

Clearing out a some sort of line, Chris?
 
Never "hammer" wedges into a snag , the shock going through the tree can send a top/limb down asap! and same go's for the Holding wood , when your driving those wedges home into a rotten core , that tree can and usually will break off the stump and go what ever direction it wants . Assesing snag's is.... well different then working a block and setting your lay , dont fight and struggle with snags against there lean!! Pick the strongest lean you have to work with and go from there(stay clear from wedges if possible) . And work with the tree when your driving wedges , watch the motion of the tree (You smack the wedge the momentum travels to the top and will release preassure from the back cut , so all you gotta do is time the tree and then driving wedges become's alot less work ) Well just my .02
Stay safe!

Well said.
 
Never "hammer" wedges into a snag , the shock going through the tree can send a top/limb down asap! and same go's for the Holding wood , when your driving those wedges home into a rotten core , that tree can and usually will break off the stump and go what ever direction it wants . Assesing snag's is.... well different then working a block and setting your lay , dont fight and struggle with snags against there lean!! Pick the strongest lean you have to work with and go from there(stay clear from wedges if possible) . And work with the tree when your driving wedges , watch the motion of the tree (You smack the wedge the momentum travels to the top and will release preassure from the back cut , so all you gotta do is time the tree and then driving wedges become's alot less work ) Well just my .02
Stay safe!

Thanks for the advice. Still fairly inexperienced at this, so I do what I can with what experience I have. This tree certainly taught me more than I thought it would. I was twitchy as hell and ready to bolt out of there at any sign of trouble, but luckily that didn't happen.

You're right guys, I should've just felled it where it wanted to go. :)

Clearing out a some sort of line, Chris?

Yeah, it's a powerline in a hiking/cross-country-skiing area, it provides electricity for the lighting in the various trails. Doesn't carry a current during the time we work there, as we just shut it off, but getting trees down safely and without hitting it is still paramount. This snag wasn't going to hit the powerline no matter what, it was just an overall hazard.
 
You're right guys, I should've just felled it where it wanted to go. :)

Only IF that was a viable option. You would not want to fall it through a tight spot between two trees because that is where it leans, and then have the top break out and come back at you. I have had snags before that I had to hit multiple times with another tree to reduce them and make them safer as there was no other option, because they were complete duffers, and could not really be trusted, unless I would have had dynamite or det-cord. I have also had them where I had to cut a superhighway escape route, gingerly try to scratch some sort of undercut and back cut, which literally is all it took some times before they would topple, then run like hell! I would not recommend hitting a snag ever, or tickle and run method, but that is what worked for me, and I worked in snag-infested Southeast Alaska, where you have to get damn creative sometimes to get them nasty bastards on the ground. Dayto said it right, free fall if possible, but if you are going to wedge it, take your ear plugs out ( so you can hear any abnormal sounds like breakage), take your safety glasses off, so you have absolutely nothing, like a glare, or dirty lenses obstructing your vision, of maybe some bark breaking loose, or wood splintering, limbs and tops breaking etc), use multiple wedges, and tap them just enough to move them slowly, and time it with the way the snag is moving, and most of all, don't use this post literally, because every snag is different, and a guy NEEDS to know what he is capable of, and wether or not he should walk away from the situation. The only time a guy needs to get creative is when he is a well seasoned, Professional Timber Faller, who HAS to get the job done, and is surrounded by well seasoned co workers who can help him out if he is vexed by something. I am always reluctant to advise anything timber falling on this forum, because I really don't think it to be an effective teaching tool, but there you have my 2 cents. Take care and be safe pard!
 
Only IF that was a viable option. You would not want to fall it through a tight spot between two trees because that is where it leans, and then have the top break out and come back at you. I have had snags before that I had to hit multiple times with another tree to reduce them and make them safer as there was no other option, because they were complete duffers, and could not really be trusted, unless I would have had dynamite or det-cord. I have also had them where I had to cut a superhighway escape route, gingerly try to scratch some sort of undercut and back cut, which literally is all it took some times before they would topple, then run like hell! I would not recommend hitting a snag ever, or tickle and run method, but that is what worked for me, and I worked in snag-infested Southeast Alaska, where you have to get damn creative sometimes to get them nasty bastards on the ground. Dayto said it right, free fall if possible, but if you are going to wedge it, take your ear plugs out ( so you can hear any abnormal sounds like breakage), take your safety glasses off, so you have absolutely nothing, like a glare, or dirty lenses obstructing your vision, of maybe some bark breaking loose, or wood splintering, limbs and tops breaking etc), use multiple wedges, and tap them just enough to move them slowly, and time it with the way the snag is moving, and most of all, don't use this post literally, because every snag is different, and a guy NEEDS to know what he is capable of, and wether or not he should walk away from the situation. The only time a guy needs to get creative is when he is a well seasoned, Professional Timber Faller, who HAS to get the job done, and is surrounded by well seasoned co workers who can help him out if he is vexed by something. I am always reluctant to advise anything timber falling on this forum, because I really don't think it to be an effective teaching tool, but there you have my 2 cents. Take care and be safe pard!

good post! theres no subsitute for hands on experiance. you got to know your limatations. you get hurt or worse when you get in over your head.
 
Thanks for the advice. Still fairly inexperienced at this, so I do what I can with what experience I have. This tree certainly taught me more than I thought it would. I was twitchy as hell and ready to bolt out of there at any sign of trouble, but luckily that didn't happen.

You're right guys, I should've just felled it where it wanted to go. :)

Good attitude. Tarzantree's post is great advice. Snags are always a wild-card. I still do quite a bit of snag falling, more than I want sometimes. Every year, at least once, I set the record for the fifty yard dash, senior division...trying to stay out of the way of a rotten piece of crap that I wished I'd never seen. :D

You've got the right idea...stay light on your feet and be ready to haul out of there.
 
Yeah, it's a powerline in a hiking/cross-country-skiing area, it provides electricity for the lighting in the various trails. Doesn't carry a current during the time we work there, as we just shut it off, but getting trees down safely and without hitting it is still paramount. This snag wasn't going to hit the powerline no matter what, it was just an overall hazard.

I used to do that a lot as I was just poking my head to the business - with power on. It is certainly a good way to gain some falling experience, since you got to make a lot of stumps. I remember me and my pard dropping 10 000 trees during one winter season - I know it because we were paid by stumps. And if you dropped the timber on the hot wire - the fireworks reminded you a couple of days the direction you should not fall.
 
Great posts boys!

I've had several that I've tickeled the backcut myself. I remember one boxelder(trash tree) about four foot on the stump years ago that I put a face into and the wood looked fine. I had just about buried the bar in the back when she exploded off of the stump. Scared the #### out of me!

I've had many over the years with tops snapping off back at me or nearby trees grabbing limbs as its going down and tossing them at me. I remember one limb rocketing at me I had to duck hard for. I picked the limb up afterward and where it had snapped it looked like a damn spear. I was very close to catching that one in the head. I've gotten pretty good at sounding wood and assesing the situation and possible outcomes over the years, but it takes only one time.

Clear the escape routes and cut them up high or where ever you can keep an eye on the top but still get the hell out of there quick.


Oh yeah, LOOK UP!!!!
 
Thanks again guys.

I understand the hesitation to provide too much falling advice on an internet forum, and rightfully so, meaning I appreciate it even more that you actually give me a few pointers.

And yeah, I've gotten into the habit of LOOKING UP all the time lately. It's taken me a while to get to the point where I'm comfortable taking my eyes off the saw a bit while cutting and looking up, but heck... making progress every day in the woods, staying humble when I have to and confident when I need to.

(Some trees makes my mouth go all dry though, but I suspect that's a good thing, s'long as it keeps me sharp.)

:cheers:
 
Thanks again guys.

I understand the hesitation to provide too much falling advice on an internet forum, and rightfully so, meaning I appreciate it even more that you actually give me a few pointers.

And yeah, I've gotten into the habit of LOOKING UP all the time lately. It's taken me a while to get to the point where I'm comfortable taking my eyes off the saw a bit while cutting and looking up, but heck... making progress every day in the woods, staying humble when I have to and confident when I need to.

(Some trees makes my mouth go all dry though, but I suspect that's a good thing, s'long as it keeps me sharp.)

:cheers:

the more you work your saw the more it becomes a extention of you.
 
Definitely fall a snag to its lean, unless you need to put it in a specific spot for whatever reason.

If you do need to wedge, hit once and look up. Hit once, look up. Repeat as needed.

Always look up!
 
Definitely fall a snag to its lean, unless you need to put it in a specific spot for whatever reason.

If you do need to wedge, hit once and look up. Hit once, look up. Repeat as needed.

Always look up!

yup, and listen , the tree will usually talk to you. if you get what i mean.
 
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