Jonsered Chainsaws

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Jeff Lary said:
My saw is a fine thread, I was hoping there was someone here that sold Jonsered parts that would make things a little easier. Yea I don't know where to turn now ha ha. As far as the drum thickness I have no idea how thick it should be. I just thought I would buy the whole shebang and be done with it, but that may not be too easy.
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I measured a new Oregon replacement drum for that application and the wall thickness on the drum is 0.075"
 
I used to have some literature (probably Oregon) that had the thickness useful limits of clutch drums. A weak shoe spring will allow the clutch shoes to engage too early....why some saw chains still rotate at idle. Also, if the clutch shoes have blueish colors, they've gotten too hot and need replaced.

Even professionally, it takes a long time to wear a clutch drum thickness down. You're much more likely to have a bad shoes/spring or a worn out needle bearing. In all the hrs I used to put on pro saws, I've only worn down maybe two clutch drums. Of course if dirt/grit is allowed to sit in there, it can act like a lathe.

Kevin
 
Real1shepherd said:
I used to have some literature (probably Oregon) that had the thickness useful limits of clutch drums. A weak shoe spring will allow the clutch shoes to engage too early....why some saw chains still rotate at idle. Also, if the clutch shoes have blueish colors, they've gotten too hot and need replaced.

Even professionally, it takes a long time to wear a clutch drum thickness down. You're much more likely to have a bad shoes/spring or a worn out needle bearing. In all the hrs I used to put on pro saws, I've only worn down maybe two clutch drums. Of course if dirt/grit is allowed to sit in there, it can act like a lathe.

Kevin
Click to expand...
I totally agree, I just figured that clutch and drum would be easy to get but that does not seem to be the case. I will settle for clutch and bearing but finding a bearing does not seem to easy either ha ha. I can grease that one but new would be better H.L.Supply seems to have the right clutch though. They show a bearing but there is no way to order it, the quantity button is not available so I take it they are out? Maybe I can get one at a local shop I am sure it does not need to be Jonsered just be the right size.
 
Jeff Lary said:
sorry somehow I missed your post, it says it fits the 670 will it also fit the 625?
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Yes as long as it is fine thread, I looked up a few of the aftermarket clutches and they don`t look like something I would run on a work saw. Seems new OEM parts are getting harder to find already. However wait for Robin to be totally certain on the fit question.
 
m
Jeff Lary said:
Thanks, I will check the one I have now
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Mine measures 0.069 so it is worn but not too badly I don't think??? But I am waiting for Cantdog to reply he has found me a used one at chainsawer and if it will fit mine ( I am sure if he recommended it,it will fit) I will buy it from them.
 
I just e-mailed chainsawer I hope it will fit the 625 I have not heard from Robin so I will see if they get back to me. I hate to bother people but do appreciate the help. I have a wheel horse with blower and my farm tractor but 3-4" is barley a challenge . I have a mystery Jonsered all apart in a box my son gave to me. A guy he works with knew I like saws so he gave it to the son. Once I get the clutch thing under control I will post some pictures to see what it is . It does not have any tags on it anywhere.
 
Jeff Lary said:
I just e-mailed chainsawer I hope it will fit the 625 I have not heard from Robin so I will see if they get back to me. I hate to bother people but do appreciate the help. I have a wheel horse with blower and my farm tractor but 3-4" is barley a challenge . I have a mystery Jonsered all apart in a box my son gave to me. A guy he works with knew I like saws so he gave it to the son. Once I get the clutch thing under control I will post some pictures to see what it is . It does not have any tags on it anywhere.
Click to expand...

Robin will get back to you but he now has a day job so not on much during the work day. Can`t say for certain he is working today but could also be busy plowing/snow relocating. Chainsawr are a good place for parts, they will know for certain the clutch will fit. The Jonsered line is not one I ever worked on very often. I did give away a large bunch of parts a few tears back that were from the 625, 670 saws when I cleaned up the shop. Some of that stuff is now becoming a bit scarce, especially the two part ignition sets of which there were many.
 
Oh I understand man has to make a living Robin has already helped me a bunch in the recent past. When he has time I will hear from him I am sure. I am off till Wednesday just kinda hanging loose. I think I will go out back and saw up some of my Tree Length. I have been putting away on it the last few days another 20 trees or so and I will have it all done. I have the new Dolmar and the 630 Jonsered with me and god help me I think I like the 630 better. Course it has heated handle bar so where have they been all my life is what I want to know? I have to use the Dolmar more though I need to get used to the "easy start" feature I am used to ripping the recoil over but on this they say that is not needed, so huge learning curve. Well time to rig the dog with his bell and head out see ya later on.
 
Don't get hung up on the needle bearing. Find a bearing place that just sells bearings and seals....like Bearings Inc, etc. Most cities have them....here it's a 65 mile drive one way. But while there you could get double lip seals, crank bearings etc and you can ask where they are made. These cheap Chinese bearings/seals that are all over eBay are undesirable for a hard working saw. There is a difference.....

Kevin
 
Jeff Lary said:
m

Mine measures 0.069 so it is worn but not too badly I don't think??? But I am waiting for Cantdog to reply he has found me a used one at chainsawer and if it will fit mine ( I am sure if he recommended it,it will fit) I will buy it from them.
Click to expand...

Pull your finger nail across the inside surface of the drum....if it's smooth, you're probably OK. Measue the drum thickness 360 degrees around for consistency. If you have a groove, the metal is blueish, or the drum has uneven thicknesses, start with another drum. Lots of Oregon kits with the needle bearing, drum & sprocket still floating around (pun intended) on eBay.

Ask chainsawr or sawagain what the Oregon drum # is for your saw...then see if you can score score a NOS kit on eBay while they last. Looks like in another thread you found out the Oregon drum # is 26831 and that the clutch in a 272 (and others) will work too. The fine thread clutch assemblies seem to be much more prevalent.

Kevin
 
Jeff Lary said:
Oh I understand man has to make a living Robin has already helped me a bunch in the recent past. When he has time I will hear from him I am sure. I am off till Wednesday just kinda hanging loose. I think I will go out back and saw up some of my Tree Length. I have been putting away on it the last few days another 20 trees or so and I will have it all done. I have the new Dolmar and the 630 Jonsered with me and god help me I think I like the 630 better. Course it has heated handle bar so where have they been all my life is what I want to know? I have to use the Dolmar more though I need to get used to the "easy start" feature I am used to ripping the recoil over but on this they say that is not needed, so huge learning curve. Well time to rig the dog with his bell and head out see ya later on.
Click to expand...
I like my heated handle saw this time of year as well, have 3 of them in the herd, 026,044 and a hybrid have heated handles, 044 has a heated carb as well.
 
Real1shepherd said:
Don't get hung up on the needle bearing. Find a bearing place that just sells bearings and seals....like Bearings Inc, etc. Most cities have them....here it's a 65 mile drive one way. But while there you could get double lip seals, crank bearings etc and you can ask where they are made. These cheap Chinese bearings/seals that are all over eBay are undesirable for a hard working saw. There is a difference.....

Kevin
Click to expand...
amen
 

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