2 saw plan for hardwood property

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I appreciate all of the replies. I started off here reading about which saw to get to replace my ms 250. I don't mind paying extra for the quality of the 261. I really was just going to get one do it all saw and didn't know what bar size to get. Now, thanks to y'all I am planning to get 2 saws, multiple bars and chains, I'm researching which oils and fuel mixtures, whether or not to modify, get more land, build more shops, etc. Thanks a lot.:D
Before you go buying a bunch of bars/chains, I would just get 1 bar for each, and then give it some time. You may find you really don't want/need anything else. If you do decide you need something else, you will know exactly what you want. Buying a bunch of stuff up front usually gets me a bunch of stuff I don't end up using much.

Just my experience.
 
I appreciate all of the replies. I started off here reading about which saw to get to replace my ms 250. I don't mind paying extra for the quality of the 261. I really was just going to get one do it all saw and didn't know what bar size to get. Now, thanks to y'all I am planning to get 2 saws, multiple bars and chains, I'm researching which oils and fuel mixtures, whether or not to modify, get more land, build more shops, etc. Thanks a lot.:D

The extra B&C really is an advantage in some situations. I use my 32" less then I should, cause often I don't bring it along on my firewood cutting sessions. You can likely get away without it, so it is something you can wait on, but to me it does sound like something you will eventually get. It does complete the advantages of the larger saws.
 
Before you go buying a bunch of bars/chains, I would just get 1 bar for each, and then give it some time. You may find you really don't want/need anything else. If you do decide you need something else, you will know exactly what you want. Buying a bunch of stuff up front usually gets me a bunch of stuff I don't end up using much.

Just my experience.
Yes I agree. My real plan would be to get a 16 or 18 bar for the 261 and a 25" bar for the 462. Just not sure on the green or yellow chains. Probably get green and yellow for the 261 but not sure about the 462.
 
I think you also need a top handle thrown into the mix. And a reliable, but unattractive clunker (natural theft deterrence) to keep in the truck. And an electric/battery saw to use indoors. And a dedicated milling saw. And a tribute/nostalgia saw. Start building the storage shed now.
 
I think you also need a top handle thrown into the mix. And a reliable, but unattractive clunker (natural theft deterrence) to keep in the truck. And an electric/battery saw to use indoors. And a dedicated milling saw. And a tribute/nostalgia saw. Start building the storage shed now.
Ha! Unfortunately I already have a 30X40 shop, tractor, mule, splitter. The clunker is a good idea. I hate leaving my saw in the back of the truck when I go into a store.
 
I struggle with 16 or 18 bar on the 261. Just curious if anybody has tried both and what they found. I guess there is not much power loss with the 18" and maybe more reach when limbing?

It's only a 2" difference. No big deal, either way.

Here is what I think. You are used to a MS250...it has mostly met your needs...buy the MS261 with an 18" .325" bar right now. Either .050 or .063...don't matter.

Buy both a full- and semi-chisel chain for it. Safety chain or not...doesn't matter. Try them both in wood. Keep them sharp.

Cut a bunch of wood with the 261. Then, think about a 2nd saw. I propose your view of saws and your view of your cutting operation may be different after you have time with the 261 in wood.

When you have some time on your hands, fix the MS250.

Roy
 
I struggle with 16 or 18 bar on the 261. Just curious if anybody has tried both and what they found. I guess there is not much power loss with the 18" and maybe more reach when limbing?
There is VERY LITTLE "power loss" due to the length of the bar.....! If you're cutting an 8" log, I doubt that you would even notice a difference in the cut time! I normally run 20" 3/8 - .050 bars on my 026, 260, and 036's!
A MS 400 with a 25" light bar might be the only saw you need... good power,, light, and comfortable to use!
 
It's only a 2" difference. No big deal, either way.

Here is what I think. You are used to a MS250...it has mostly met your needs...buy the MS261 with an 18" .325" bar right now. Either .050 or .063...don't matter.

Buy both a full- and semi-chisel chain for it. Safety chain or not...doesn't matter. Try them both in wood. Keep them sharp.

Cut a bunch of wood with the 261. Then, think about a 2nd saw. I propose your view of saws and your view of your cutting operation may be different after you have time with the 261 in wood.

When you have some time on your hands, fix the MS250.

Roy
Solid advice, I appreciate it.
 
There is VERY LITTLE "power loss" due to the length of the bar.....! If you're cutting an 8" log, I doubt that you would even notice a difference in the cut time! I normally run 20" 3/8 - .050 bars on my 026, 260, and 036's!
A MS 400 with a 25" light bar might be the only saw you need... good power,, light, and comfortable to use!
Thanks. I am definitely thinking about a 25" light bar if I do get the 462. I am going to start with the 261 and then get the 462 if I am cutting bigger oak routinely and am bogging down bucking that with the 261.
 
But I agree with the consensus, the 50cc and 70-80cc plan sounds like it'd work for you. If you start pruning, cutting brush or dealing with really thin/live stuff a lot, you might find 3/8 to be a bit grabby. An 18 inch bar in 3/8 isn't my first choice for maneuverability or surgical work, but that likely isn't an issue in your area.
 
It's only a 2" difference. No big deal, either way.

Here is what I think. You are used to a MS250...it has mostly met your needs...buy the MS261 with an 18" .325" bar right now. Either .050 or .063...don't matter.

Buy both a full- and semi-chisel chain for it. Safety chain or not...doesn't matter. Try them both in wood. Keep them sharp.

Cut a bunch of wood with the 261. Then, think about a 2nd saw. I propose your view of saws and your view of your cutting operation may be different after you have time with the 261 in wood.

When you have some time on your hands, fix the MS250.

Roy
Yes. Maybe just get a 261 with a 20" and call it a day.
 
Match your saw to what you cut. Most of the trees I cut have alot of "limb wood" and not alot of trunk. A 16in on the 550xp does most of the cutting and then a 24in on the 390xp comes out for the trunk. One saw may do it all but I like to have a larger saw for those bigger pieces.
 
Match your saw to what you cut. Most of the trees I cut have alot of "limb wood" and not alot of trunk. A 16in on the 550xp does most of the cutting and then a 24in on the 390xp comes out for the trunk. One saw may do it all but I like to have a larger saw for those bigger pieces.
Agree. I think the 261 would do most of the work, but we have a couple of dead live oaks that Harvey blew down that are probably 30" plus that I would like a bigger saw for. Not that it couldn't be done with a smaller saw but it would take more time and effort.

I would be interested in the Husqvarna saws, but it's easier to find Stihl dealers here.
 
Thanks. I am definitely thinking about a 25" light bar if I do get the 462. I am going to start with the 261 and then get the 462 if I am cutting bigger oak routinely and am bogging down bucking that with the 261.
The 462 has been GREAT for me..... I run a 28" light bar on mine, as we deal with a lot of bigger fir and hemlock in our area. I'm on a wait list for a new 261 :)
 
Your two saw plan is a good one.

Almost all my saws are .050. It's most common.

I'd run 89+ E0 if you can get it and it's not too expensive, otherwise E10. You just need to use or rotate it sooner. E0 is hard to find and very expensive here so I use E10 and rotate it when it's over 6 weeks or so old. I buy 5 gallons at a time and mix a gallon at a time.

My preference is to buy gas and mix my own oil. That way I can use a known high quality synthetic oil. I use Redline Allsport but there are many good oils. I have used the Redline for 30 years in motorcycles and OPE without issue. The engines I have torn down have been pretty clean inside and show little wear. A bonus is that it makes the exhaust smell better than many other oils.
 
Your two saw plan is a good one.

Almost all my saws are .050. It's most common.

I'd run 89+ E0 if you can get it and it's not too expensive, otherwise E10. You just need to use or rotate it sooner. E0 is hard to find and very expensive here so I use E10 and rotate it when it's over 6 weeks or so old. I buy 5 gallons at a time and mix a gallon at a time.

My preference is to buy gas and mix my own oil. That way I can use a known high quality synthetic oil. I use Redline Allsport but there are many good oils. I have used the Redline for 30 years in motorcycles and *** without issue. The engines I have torn down have been pretty clean inside and show little wear. A bonus is that it makes the exhaust smell better than many other oils.
Good to know. E0 is less available, but I can find it. Now that I know it will keep for 6 months I will get it 5 gallons at a time and mix when I need it. If not, the E10 is everywhere, and if I have to in a pinch I'll use it, but not keep it longer than 6 weeks. Thanks.
 
Good to know. E0 is less available, but I can find it. Now that I know it will keep for 6 months I will get it 5 gallons at a time and mix when I need it. If not, the E10 is everywhere, and if I have to in a pinch I'll use it, but not keep it longer than 6 weeks. Thanks.
May want to rethink your sequence unless you have other uses for the E0. Many good mixes have fuel stabilizers.

Ron
 

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