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Nice work Parris. That case looks to be in good condition, very little clutch side damage. Watch alot of saw auctions from up north and they usually have heavy chain scaring.

Good thread

Yup I've seen a few that were really bad. This one, I'd classify as normal.
 
You machine the top of the piston down around the outside creating a pop-up piston, you must do this on the 2101 because the crown height is too high and would hit the top of the cylinder.

Not hard to seperate the case, I made my own tool to do this see it here.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=131911

That's a 371 build I just finished.

You put the bearings in the case on assembly, usually when you take it apart they are stuck to the crank, and you need a puller to get them off. I heat the case and the new bearings just fall right in.

cool...looks like a job for the drillpress and a file :redneck:

I MAY be having to do this on my (was) NICE 371

ah, NM...I just saw you posted on my thread...sure! i'll send it your way for the help, being that your experienced. case of beer your way for fixin it? :cheers: :rock: lol
 
cool...looks like a job for the drillpress and a file :redneck:

I MAY be having to do this on my (was) NICE 371

ah, NM...I just saw you posted on my thread...sure! i'll send it your way for the help, being that your experienced. case of beer your way for fixin it? :cheers: :rock: lol

ha ha. Case a beer x 20 for a full rebuild! LOL, no cheap beer either.
 
ha ha. Case a beer x 20 for a full rebuild! LOL, no cheap beer either.

Up to the auction block with her then....lol


Can I buy bearings and seals at the bearing and seal place, or do I have to go to the *gulp* dealer?

also, what to pull seals with? reg seal puller?

/ thread hijack.
 
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Up to the auction block with her then....lol


Can I buy bearings and seals at the bearing and seal place, or do I have to go to the *gulp* dealer?

also, what to pull seals with? reg seal puller?

/ thread hijack.

Bearings yes, you can get anywhere. Seals, I think you need to go dealer.
 
How much compression can you gain with a 2101 piston vs the stocker. The 394 I got has 160lbs or so the way it is.
 
I bet it's an arm ripper to start that way. I would think that increase would be real noticeable. I might have to try that on this one. I want to get a big log to do some cuts to video before I port it. Then I might get a piston done up to see what difference that makes.
 
I bet it's an arm ripper to start that way. I would think that increase would be real noticeable. I might have to try that on this one. I want to get a big log to do some cuts to video before I port it. Then I might get a piston done up to see what difference that makes.

Its not too bad to start.

Cool, let us know how your's goes.
 
Little update here. Waiting on piston rings still. So I made up a mandrel to machine the cylinder down, then machined off .025 off the base hopefully leaving .022 squish.
 
394 carb setup
attachment.php

any internal pictures of the cylinders showing the ports, etc??

The exhaust on the 394 looks MUCH bigger than the 95, but the 95 intake looks less restrictive...



OHH OHH!! i'm in need of the black throttle lock piece in this picture, if anyone could help... :) i've also posted in the swap meet thread... (parrisW, if you would be so kind to allow me to 'borrow' your picture :D:D)

but does anyone out there have the black plastic piece that locks the throttle when the choke lever is pulled on the 394??

thanks!
 
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any internals of the cyl??

OHH OHH!! i'm in need of the black throttle lock piece in this picture, if anyone could help... :) i've also posted in the swap meet thread... (parrisW, if you would be so kind to allow me to 'borrow' your picture :D:D)

but does anyone out there have the black plastic piece that locks the throttle when the choke lever is pulled on the 394??

thanks!

Not sure if you can buy that piece or not? Looks like a hard piece to come by. What kind of pics do you want of the cylinder? I have a scrap one here I could snap a few pics of.
 
Not sure if you can buy that piece or not? Looks like a hard piece to come by. What kind of pics do you want of the cylinder? I have a scrap one here I could snap a few pics of.

Yeah, NO IDEA how that broke, just noticed it wasn't locking the throttle, so off come the covers.

transfers mainly, but intake as well.

did you remove the vane in the intake, or leave it? what purpose would that serve other than increasing velocity, but into the crankcase?? :confused:

maybe it'll have to be a complete carb set... then I can make a metal piece.


Thanks.
 
Yeah, NO IDEA how that broke, just noticed it wasn't locking the throttle, so off come the covers.

transfers mainly, but intake as well.

did you remove the vane in the intake, or leave it? what purpose would that serve other than increasing velocity, but into the crankcase?? :confused:

maybe it'll have to be a complete carb set... then I can make a metal piece.


Thanks.

Not sure what you mean by vane in the intake?
 
Parris thanks for a tread that has something to do with saws. saw building treads are the best. and the few highjack/ ligit questions on here just make it better I think. I have a 394 that is bone stock, not even a muff modd. I am following your tread close as I will modd it someday. I have to say I think it cuts faster than the 395 I used to have, and I like the solid mount carb better than the carb boot style. I hear alot of stories about air leaks with them. I have a 359 now needing a top end because of the boot clamp. My main question is on the 394 and 395 cyl because of the intake port being different and the exaust on the 394 looking larger which cyl do u think is the best overall? thanks foe your time.
jnl

I'm sure a few more questions will come if that is ok. U don't have to give any trade secrets but knowladge is power and we all want more power.
jnl
 
Parris thanks for a tread that has something to do with saws. saw building treads are the best. and the few highjack/ ligit questions on here just make it better I think. I have a 394 that is bone stock, not even a muff modd. I am following your tread close as I will modd it someday. I have to say I think it cuts faster than the 395 I used to have, and I like the solid mount carb better than the carb boot style. I hear alot of stories about air leaks with them. I have a 359 now needing a top end because of the boot clamp. My main question is on the 394 and 395 cyl because of the intake port being different and the exaust on the 394 looking larger which cyl do u think is the best overall? thanks foe your time.
jnl

I'm sure a few more questions will come if that is ok. U don't have to give any trade secrets but knowladge is power and we all want more power.
jnl

Your welcome for the thread, I enjoy doing them. More to come too.

Hey, any trade secrets I have, I learned from here or there, so it's not like I invented it, so I don't mind answering anything I can.

Yes I think that the 394 is slightly more powerful then the 395, yes the intake is different and well as the transfer port arrangement, looks to me that the 394 will flow more in the transfer department, and intake too, not sure about the exhaust, I haven't studied them that closely together.

Will
 
Ok, here are some pics.

394 cylinder on left.

attachment.php

The vane/center post on the 394.... oh, duh. this is NOT the saw we're building (note to self: building a 395, NOT a 394)...sorry :monkey:

i was thinking it wouldn't seem to serve much purpose on a 2 stroke... helps sometimes increase velocity to different sides of the cyl to create swirl in a combustion chamber. but we're charging the crankcase here....hmm.

can anyone elaborate?

J
 
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