661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

[KG441c]

It wasn't a little, it was all up under the top cover, running down the front of the muffler and on to the case on my 550, 562, and on 201T it just all over inside and outside the clutch cover.

I'm not saying 800 is bad oil at all or not to use it, i've used it for years in my dirt bikes and its great. Perhaps there is a reason VP uses 710 instead of 800 in SEF.

Chris I cant anwser that but I havent seen that

800 is full of zinc. Zinc will foul plugs and cause piston crown and exhaust port deposits. The crown deposits will also contribute to pre ignition.

I disagree. Ive ran 800t and h1r with zero fouled plugs or depoists and ive ran it in all my ported saws including a stock 241c with 0 issues

 

[KG441c]

I have run 800 and have had spotless combustion chambers .............. including plugs. The 800 actually reduced the deposits on the piston that were there from Echo 2 cycle synthetic

I agree. Thats totally not true that 800 or h1r will depoist a piston or foul plugs

 

[bwalker]

It's verifiable that 800 is full of zinc. It's also verifiable what zinc does inside a motor.

 

[bwalker]

Chainsaws run under quite different conditions to what a lot of these bike 2T oils were designed for. Don't forget when pre mixing oil it remains at the same ratio irrespective of what rpm/load situation is taking place. What l would like to see is OEM's work far more closely with oil company's to produce a quality synthetic/semi synthetic tailored to suit the specific requirements of modern saws. This would mean chemical engineers would test and really determine the best formula for the application. lf l as a consumer am expected to pay in many instances more than double or tripple the cost of conventional mineral base oils l want better than what is on the shelf today. l don't want to feel sick after breathing in sulphur contained in the additives after running a saw all day, going home with my eyes feeling like shrivelled sultanas...NO THANKS. And the price they command is hidious!! A industry saw user can easily pocket the savings using conventional oils to replace his saw yearly at minimum. Let alone having to worry about saws not in use attracting moisture corroding internals main bearings ect. Go to a Stihl dealer and get a quote on replacing crank bearings....not worth the risk. Actually quite stupid lMO. What about, loss of ring seal due to glazing that these synthetics cause....these are tested known fact! If using synthetics in saws that put food on your family's table why would you want an oil that results in power loss after prolonged use?? Once again get a quote at your local dealer for replacement of rings/piston. Most guys pay others to do this work as their trade is holding a saw. The negatives of these pricey, blow by promoting man made princess perfect molecules are just false economy and did l mention they stink. Look, synthetics have 'some' wonderful characteristics at high temperatures and in certain racing applications you would be stupid to use anything else, but we are talking chainsaws!lol Not the quarter mile or Baja! I challenge anyone to show the forum a failure directly related to any oil mineral/synthetic?? I mean a failure that can directly be blamed on the QUALITY of the oil, not no oil or not enough oil or a result of lean tune. Andy has been searching for a few days now and he has come up with zilch, maybe others can chime in and help him. But the rules are, you have to prove beyond reasonable doubt that XXXX oil caused the failure.

So all synthetics cause glazing? Laughing!
Most oils today are at least partially synthetic. In fact they have to be to meet the latest standards.

 

[bwalker]

What many are failing to grasp is the fact that oils are application specific. Some motorcycle oils work well in saws, some do not. What makes one oil excel in one area is a detriment in another. Everything is a trade off.
When guys write about using oils like Motul 800, Maxima 927, Klotz Techniplate etc in a a low stressed application like a saw I shake my head.. On top of that the same guys think there doing their motor a favor, when the opposite is true.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

So whats the conclusion fellas , i gotta fill my gas cans up tomorrow.

 

[KG441c]

So whats the conclusion fellas , i gotta fill my gas cans up tomorrow.

I say buy the cheapest no name oil at the store u can find and run it at 100to1. Dont use semi or full synthetic bike oil it isnt made for your saw and will burn it up especially at 32t01!!

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

I say buy the cheapest no name oil at the store u can find and run it at 100to1. Dont use semi or full synthetic bike oil it isnt made for your saw and will burn it up especially at 32t01!!

This forum is expensive , i keep forgetting the hours i put on saws before i ran a motorcycle oil and they all ran fine and i never had a problem..i need you guys to figure it out and ill go try it.

 

[bwalker]

This forum is expensive , i keep forgetting the hours i put on saws before i ran a motorcycle oil and they all ran fine and i never had a problem..i need you guys to figure it out and ill go try it.

It really is splitting hairs..if it works for you and your happy keep doing it!

 

[KenJax Tree]

So whats the conclusion fellas , i gotta fill my gas cans up tomorrow.

Do what works for you, only a few opinions matter here and its not mine[emoji3]

 

[CR888]

So all synthetics cause glazing? Laughing!
Most oils today are at least partially synthetic. In fact they have to be to meet the latest standards.[/QUOTTE=

Ever stopped to think why they burn your eyes and have such a foul odor.......sulphur added to slow glazing. So what exactly is HR1's rating?? Why does full synthetic ulta have a lower rating than hp??? l own saws that have seen over a decade of use on stihl cheapest mineral oil. Prolonged use of full synthetics will reduce throttle response and reduce ring seal. lf l were to use full synthetics l would make sure l ran mineral oil every so often. Full synthetics certainly have there place, just not in my saws.

 

[mdavlee]

What many are failing to grasp is the fact that oils are application specific. Some motorcycle oils work well in saws, some do not. What makes one oil excel in one area is a detriment in another. Everything is a trade off.
When guys write about using oils like Motul 800, Maxima 927, Klotz Techniplate etc in a a low stressed application like a saw I shake my head.. On top of that the same guys think there doing their motor a favor, when the opposite is true.

If a saw was used milling where each cut is 1-2 tanks of mix are these still overkill?

 

[bwalker]

Your completley false on the sulfur....and everything else as well..

 

[bwalker]

If a saw was used milking where each cut is 1-2 tanks of mix are these still overkill?

Yes. I would look at going to a 32:1 and maybe even 20:1 ratio depending on the wood. I would also be very mindful that my carb tuning stayed on the rich side

 

[mdavlee]

Yes.

I'm just curious what oil do you run?

 

[bwalker]

In OPE I have been using Yamalube 2R for some time. Also used up a couple quarts worth of Husky silver that I got for free.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

I say buy the cheapest no name oil at the store u can find and run it at 100to1. Dont use semi or full synthetic bike oil it isnt made for your saw and will burn it up especially at 32t01!!

I chunked 3 maple trees down friday and put 6 tanks of fuel through my 241..it was runnin 90 e free gas and belray at 32:1 and it ran great..am i doin it wrong ? , i just wanna know how long my saw is gonna last ?

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

Do what works for you, only a few opinions matter here and its not mine[emoji3]

Expierence doesnt count

 

[porsche965]

This is better than a reality show without tits!

 

[bwalker]

Expierence doesnt count

Which is dependant on knowledge and expectations for a valid interpretation.