And this test is beyond meaningless.
661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?
- Thread starter redbull660
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KG441c
Keith
I have a feeling that if alota these guys opt for the 50to1 you will be rebuilding alot more bottomends!! Lol!!
KG441c
Keith
Doesnt all oil inhibit combustion? The tech at Maxima did tell me the lower flashpoints will ignite more readily and produce a tad more energy but im sure he is pushing their product
STIHLTHEDEERE
This is Koty
just asking a question here. do you think you put enough time on any one of your saws to get them to that point? also, all of your toys are heavily ported, they run faster and hotter, therefore you would not see the buildup a firewood cutter does with a stock saw.
KG441c
Keith
Redbull it would be interesting to see the 660 tested. Is it ported?
Maybe you're jumping to conclusions, like many others are.
KG441c
Keith
I agree. Ive had 0 issues with motul 800 and h1r . Oily residue on all internals is very good especially when it burns cleanly and alil oil on the outside is a small price to pay.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Simply not true! I have never seen anyone start up a saw at the pump station, then you might be correct but also highly probably arrested also. All others refuel their gas jug, dump in the oil and throw the mix container into the car and drive to whereever they are cutting their wood. During that drive there are enough movements inside the jug to ensure proper mixing! And what should hinder a mineral oil product from mixing with another mineral/full synthetic oil product?!
As usual these oil threads are quite annoying with all the "beliefs" proclaimed!
7
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
It wasn't a little, it was all up under the top cover, running down the front of the muffler and on to the case on my 550, 562, and on 201T it just all over inside and outside the clutch cover.
I'm not saying 800 is bad oil at all or not to use it, i've used it for years in my dirt bikes and its great. Perhaps there is a reason VP uses 710 instead of 800 in SEF.
No.
In the case of H1R and based on several things I think it has alot of diluent in the blend which is causing the above mentioned combustion issues.
I run my 562 at 32:1 and have since new. The muffler is bone dry.
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Motul 800 Road Racing?
Perhaps, but I have seen the same thing you have observed over several different applications. And given the fact it isn't that clean why bother with it.
With these issues definitive evidence is hard to find, but you can't ignore the anecdotal.
No, I wouldn't run that oil in a saw.
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Thats what i was saying. Lucas @ 32:1 was very clean and slighly wet inside the muffler, the 800 @ 40:1 made a mess.
I'm not trying to argue or debate that Lucas is better than Motul or any other oil but for this application and my use i'll stick with Lucas.
800 is full of zinc. Zinc will foul plugs and cause piston crown and exhaust port deposits. The crown deposits will also contribute to pre ignition.
Moparmyway
Its just a saw
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I have run 800 and have had spotless combustion chambers .............. including plugs. The 800 actually reduced the deposits on the piston that were there from Echo 2 cycle synthetic
Typical if the piston is spotless IE bare metal, than your running very rich. I have never seen a bare metal piston from a motor ran any length of time that was tuned properly.
Chainsaws run under quite different conditions to what a lot of these bike 2T oils were designed for. Don't forget when pre mixing oil it remains at the same ratio irrespective of what rpm/load situation is taking place. What l would like to see is OEM's work far more closely with oil company's to produce a quality synthetic/semi synthetic tailored to suit the specific requirements of modern saws. This would mean chemical engineers would test and really determine the best formula for the application. lf l as a consumer am expected to pay in many instances more than double or tripple the cost of conventional mineral base oils l want better than what is on the shelf today. l don't want to feel sick after breathing in sulphur contained in the additives after running a saw all day, going home with my eyes feeling like shrivelled sultanas...NO THANKS. And the price they command is hidious!! A industry saw user can easily pocket the savings using conventional oils to replace his saw yearly at minimum. Let alone having to worry about saws not in use attracting moisture corroding internals main bearings ect. Go to a Stihl dealer and get a quote on replacing crank bearings....not worth the risk. Actually quite stupid lMO. What about, loss of ring seal due to glazing that these synthetics cause....these are tested known fact! If using synthetics in saws that put food on your family's table why would you want an oil that results in power loss after prolonged use?? Once again get a quote at your local dealer for replacement of rings/piston. Most guys pay others to do this work as their trade is holding a saw. The negatives of these pricey, blow by promoting man made princess perfect molecules are just false economy and did l mention they stink. Look, synthetics have 'some' wonderful characteristics at high temperatures and in certain racing applications you would be stupid to use anything else, but we are talking chainsaws!lol Not the quarter mile or Baja! I challenge anyone to show the forum a failure directly related to any oil mineral/synthetic?? I mean a failure that can directly be blamed on the QUALITY of the oil, not no oil or not enough oil or a result of lean tune. Andy has been searching for a few days now and he has come up with zilch, maybe others can chime in and help him. But the rules are, you have to prove beyond reasonable doubt that XXXX oil caused the failure.
