A Felling Question

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IDK, it's not gum, pine, hackberry or oak. Those are the only ones I can ID.
Thanks, I was thinking about how to most accurately set my hinge thickness (I did the back first), and first put in a vertical bore about where I thought it should be, then the top and undercut.
The gas can is just in case I needed the ported 394. J/K, those trees are right by my house, so no "Tru-fuel-canteen" mix carriers needed.
I didn't take pics of the hackberry that didn't turn and hung up. Had to bore in and out the bottom three times until it finally fell thru. Amateur.

I went through Hockley yesterday morning going to and from Camp Allen. Thought about you and rolled down the window, but didn't hear a saw going. ;)
 
I went through Hockley yesterday morning going to and from Camp Allen. Thought about you and rolled down the window, but didn't hear a saw going. ;)
Only because I didn't need the Monkey-Logic 394. That saw can easily be heard in the Heights with a north wind
(20 miles away, for you poor, unfortunate Non-Texans)
 
Had to fall one this afternoon 180 degrees from the lean. Could have swung it 90 degrees, but it would have hung up. Since I don't have Bitz skills I did it the lame way.View attachment 432872
Threw in a block face for no good reason, but it kept it on the stump pretty good
View attachment 432890
Now that's magic! How did you do all that cutting with out getting one speck of sawdust on even one blade of grass?
Thansk
 
The problem is gravity. On a conventional, gravity helps the angled cut not go long. On the Humboldt, gravity tries to pull the undercut long, which is death, unless you can comfortably vertically bore it into a block face. As a part timer, I intentionally try to miss the far corner a little short. If I do, it's a 30 second fix. Resist the temptation to chase u'r cuts if you miss long.
From today, missed short. If it matters I'll nibble another slice from the far side undercut. This tree was only going one direction, so I didn't bother
 
From today, missed short. ...

Have you ever considered making the undercut first, then finishing with the straight top cut? Not only is it a bit easier to gauge than the undercut, when you have matched up the cuts the wedge falls out announcing that you are done (or missed on the low side). This is an added advantage, particularly on big face-cut wedges that have a tendency to fall on the saw or the cutter when they are turned loose.
 
I had one back leaner that was very tall, but prolly 8-10 inches. Started by boring in from the back, almost all the way to the front, put in a back cut, incorporating the bore, got a wedge in the bore (doesn't bottom out this way), open face, and wedge it over.
image.jpg
It works well. I learned it from a Mike. I can't remember if it was handsome mike, or NQSHM
 
That one on the right with the white blotches on the bark could be in the too hard basket, it got fence flattener written all over it. LOL
Thansk
I'm thinning so I can mow more easily. The top of that hackberry is so far over that fence I'd have to hire a climber to not destroy stuff.
 
I'm thinning so I can mow more easily. The top of that hackberry is so far over that fence I'd have to hire a climber to not destroy stuff.
Or a gun soft Dutchman cutter! LOL if it doesn't go too well at least you won't have to go way down the end of the paddock to get into that block!
Thansk
 
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