A Felling Question

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I am going to post a few pics, you guys that do this "swinging the tree" thing are welcome to tell me if I have this right. This is going to be a bit long, but what the heck? That seems to be my specialty. I will also probably have to edit this a few times to get it all right.

Let us assume that there is a tall tree with a slight lean to the east. We all agree (I think) that a deep face cut could be made that would be less than perpendicular to the lean that would cause the tree to lean in a different direction. For simplicity purposes, I am assuming that there is no back cut, that the wood is flexible enough to allow the face cut to close without breaking. This cut requires that the face closes holding the tree in just the right position, yet has enough holding wood to prevent total collapse of the tree. Picture as shown:
swing-tree-1-png.432747


Let us remember that the lean of the tree is now a bit greater than it was before, but we have used gravity to change it's direction to the south east.

Now, either above or below the original cut, we will cut an additional deep face cut. Although it will be installed using the full diameter of the tree, it will only be held securely by the remaining holding wood, and it will be only partially held by the wood fibers that have been undercut in the first face cut. Again, we will be increasing the angle of the lean, using the force of gravity and the strength of our holding wood to change the lean somewhat to the southwest. At this point, the tree has not ever "risen" against gravity, but the lean has increased while it rotated around the vertical axis. The amount of true holding wood has decreased with each cut.
swing-tree-2-png.432754


Repeat the process on the third cut, making a face cut that uses gravity to increase the lean while it changes the direction of lean. After the 3rd cut, the tree could be theoretically facing almost opposite the original lean; all by making face cuts a bit less than perpendicular to the existing lean that collectively rotate the tree aound to the SW, having once been leaning East.
swing-tree-3-png.432756


At this point, a quick nip into the remaining holding wood and the tree will fall opposite the original lean.

Obviously, this theoretical tree now leaning to the SW is being held by a tiny amount of uncut holding wood, the face cuts would need to be made by an exceptionally skilled faller that could choose the necessary angles very precisely, and each cut would be chopping useable lumber off the end of the log. I'm not so sure how effectively this could be done in the real world, but it is theoretically possible.

Since I have NEVER tried to do this, how 'bout you lumber harvesters tell me if this is about what you have been describing with respect to "swinging a tree" with multiple cuts. Obviously, I have not made any mention of dutchmen, and my drawings almost certainly are not scaled properly to allow a face cut (of unspecified width) to close. Back cuts (that would allow the face cut to close) have not been drawn, mostly because I am not that good at making these drawings.
 

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Thats more or less it. With the multiple cuts in the soft dutchman you are sawing in a really deep face that falls into the next kerf and so on. Obviously the multiple face thing would not work because the tree would either break off or become incredibly unstable. Thats the general idea though.

For all reading this- For the record just because it can be done does not mean its the safest or most efficient way of doing things. You learn a lot of tricks spending 5-6 hours stumpin trees every day. The bottom line is always safety and efficiency. I can't make money if I'm dead.
 
The tree would have sat back hinge or no, but you just explained sawing leaning into the tree made it tip forward. You've finally got it. That was exasperating. I think I'm done here. Good luck with your broom handle. And tree fibers do stretch, the tensioned ones are longer than the compressed ones. If they didn't stretch they would break instead of bend.
Yes that's the same explanation I gave about 20 pages back so its not new, Ive got an old engineering textbook from my long forgotten studies with timber fibre elongation tables, short & long term elongation before failure, I will dig it out & tke a pic of it if you like, I liked the diagrammatic explanation given above, how it would be possible to do those cuts without pinching the saw would be a sight to see though.
 
...For the record just because it (dutchman cut) can be done does not mean its the safest or most efficient way of doing things...
Right. I'll leave that one for the pro fallers. I'm still working on a clean Humboldt in the same time as I can make a conventional face. Not pretty at the moment...
 
Seriously?!? I already have way too much stuff, but now I'm supposed to carry some sort of giant nail around the woods with me?!?
I think lumberjack dude has a great idea with his giant nail driver.
One could look like a real timber tramp with that multi purpose tool over the shoulder as a carrying apperatus for saw, jugs, lunch box and a coulpe of squirrels he shot along the way. Lol
 
Right. I'll leave that one for the pro fallers. I'm still working on a clean Humboldt in the same time as I can make a conventional face. Not pretty at the moment...
The problem is gravity. On a conventional, gravity helps the angled cut not go long. On the Humboldt, gravity tries to pull the undercut long, which is death, unless you can comfortably vertically bore it into a block face. As a part timer, I intentionally try to miss the far corner a little short. If I do, it's a 30 second fix. Resist the temptation to chase u'r cuts if you miss long.
 
The problem is gravity. On a conventional, gravity helps the angled cut not go long. On the Humboldt, gravity tries to pull the undercut long, which is death, unless you can comfortably vertically bore it into a block face. As a part timer, I intentionally try to miss the far corner a little short. If I do, it's a 30 second fix. Resist the temptation to chase u'r cuts if you miss long.
LOL. Guilty as charged.
 
Domino falling? I like this:

Cool vid. I once felled a dozen phone poles like that with the wires still in them as a "professional favour" for my lawyer who was getting underground power.
His wife was so impressed that she stuffed a 100$ bill in my shirt pocket. Lol
I'm sure they got a quote for 5000$ before I showed up on the scene.
Nice guys don't always finish last. Lol
 
Cool vid. I once felled a dozen phone poles like that with the wires still in them as a "professional favour" for my lawyer who was getting underground power.
His wife was so impressed that she stuffed a 100$ bill in my shirt pocket. Lol
I'm sure they got a quote for 5000$ before I showed up on the scene.
Nice guys don't always finish last. Lol
now gyp,,you know dang well you didn't do that....the big pro loggers on here,,are the only ones capable.. they be eggspurts,,mostly spurts....
 
Cool vid. I once felled a dozen phone poles like that with the wires still in them as a "professional favour" for my lawyer who was getting underground power.
His wife was so impressed that she stuffed a 100$ bill in my shirt pocket. Lol
I'm sure they got a quote for 5000$ before I showed up on the scene.
Nice guys don't always finish last. Lol
Sure, but did you burn them for firewood?
 
That elm Jon? I think you brought enough fuel! Nice looking face.
IDK, it's not gum, pine, hackberry or oak. Those are the only ones I can ID.
Thanks, I was thinking about how to most accurately set my hinge thickness (I did the back first), and first put in a vertical bore about where I thought it should be, then the top and undercut.
The gas can is just in case I needed the ported 394. J/K, those trees are right by my house, so no "Tru-fuel-canteen" mix carriers needed.
I didn't take pics of the hackberry that didn't turn and hung up. Had to bore in and out the bottom three times until it finally fell thru. Amateur.
 

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