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Chevy, You sure your numbers are right?

My numbers with the bas gasket before tear down was

Intake 71.5 deg. atdc...total of 143
Exhaust 110 atdc...total of 140
Transfer closest to exhaust 130...total of 100
Transfer closest to Intake 133...total of 96

The exhaust numbers seems really low. Wonder if raising the exhaust to 105 would make it to pipey? Any recomendations on the numbers would be appreciated.
 
450, with the limited experience I have, but solely with Dolmar, I would say leave the numbers by themselves. Stock, it's one powerful saw. I would concentrate on going WIDE and making sure the ports are symmetrical in all aspects. I like using the "winding sticks" technique for woodworking. It catches little gremlins!

The numbers I gave you is what I measured. I come to believe that all saws are not equal. Due to manufacturing processes I would guess.

I would say to clean up the upper transfers too and port them towards the intake some more. Make sure to keep the duration the same. The transfers on my 5100 looked like crap stock. Really bad casting. Other than that, Mahle kicked some serous hind in it's porting.

Keep it simple for a stout work saw. There is a 5100 stocker pulling a 20 3/8 chain like it was its business to do so. Don't worry about the numbers, go wide with good flow, smooth the porting out, make sure the ports are symmetrical, and above all else, make it look bad azz.

Good luck. I'm very looking forward to this.
 
I still dont get it????

Push piston into bore lookie see whats even or not, Grind some more job done???
 
It helps catch imperfection inside the port walls and such. But you probably won't understand that either:yoyo:

Tommy! A showdown. 262 vs 6401
 
Photos of another 6400 transfers.
The casting quality is excellent, much better than the 7900 one that replaced it.

BTW, I've had a hard time keeping the die grinder away from the 7900 cylinder, but I couldn't help and clean up the parting lines and flashing on the 7900 piston. :monkey:
It shouldn't alter the test I'm doing, only something between 0.5 and 1g of material was removed.
 
Yeh, the transfers on my 5100 where really nice to, not much casting flash at all. Overall, I was pretty impressed with the casting in general. The worst part of my saw was the squish, was at .046" from the factory with a .026" base gasket. I cut .028 from the cylinder to set the final squish at .018" with the oem gasket.

The exhaust port on mine was almost as wide as you would want to take it because of the narrow skirt. The one side had almost exactly a 2mm margin before cutting. The other side had a 3.3mm margin. It was like the port was not centered exactly. I widened the side that I could to leave a 2mm margin on that side and straightend the sides up for a max. area as quickly as possible, with a generous arc on the roof as to ease the rings back into place.

The intake had alittle room to be widened, the margin was about 3.5mm on both sides. I made the original hole more of a rectangle shape than an oval, just because I wanted more area and the single ring doesn't come down in the bore far enough to risk snagging....You cannot get close to the general rule of 60% of the bore on the intake or exhaust becaust of the narrow skirts on the piston.

On the bottum of the cylinder, where it would set upon the crankcase, there was a pretty big mismatch in the transfer area. I used the oem gasket to scribe each surface and match them up.


These are my oem timing #'s
Intake 71.5
Exhaust 110
Transfer closest to Exh. 133
Transfer closest to intake 130
Squish .046"

These are the #'s I ended up with
Intake 77.5
Exhaust 98
Transfer closest to exh. 123
Transfer closest to intake 120
squish .018"


This saw cam with a 18" 3/8 pitch bar new. I pulled the muffler and modded it before it ever seen any wood. The saw handled the 18" square ground fairly good for a small saw...Basically, it was pretty stout.

For someone just wanting to widen the ports and clean them up, I don't know if there is all that much room for improvement because of the narrow skirts and the clean castings on the cylinder. I think this is why some saws tend to yeild better results after modding then others?....If I knew what I know now, I would off taken the base gasket out and tossed it in the trash and put the saw back together. Of course, I figured that while I was in there I would try for alittle more, just to make it worth while...I wasn't thinking that I would have that much time into it, I was wrong..

Did I make it any better? Did I totally goof the #'s? Don't know yet, I read as much as I could on here about porting and gave it a shot. It's all back together with a new piston and ring, updated gas tank vent, updated metal ring in the intake and filled with fresh premium gas and oil. I will try and put a couple of tanks threw it tomorrow.

I am no expert on this, just my 2 cents worth.
 
It helps catch imperfection inside the port walls and such. But you probably won't understand that either:yoyo:

Tommy! A showdown. 262 vs 6401

Bring it on trial size!:)

I will have a nice fresh bit of Scots pine you can stick to your err Rock pine lol
 
Exhaust 98

For someone just wanting to widen the ports and clean them up, I don't know if there is all that much room for improvement because of the narrow skirts and the clean castings on the cylinder.

I read as much as I could on here about porting and gave it a shot.

That number on your exhaust is fairly close to mine. After reading about a stout sawyer who does his own saws and doesn't even mess with numbers, I'm leading to believe that wide is best to let it flow. Porting those ports to the best of your abilities. I agree, there is not that much that can be done on Dolmars. BUT, porting them in my limited experience has led me to believe that there is hidden potential in Dolmars. You just have to tap into it the best you can. It sounds like you're on track.

Vids por favor:cheers:


Tommy! Whachu say:greenchainsaw:
 
I'm leading to believe that wide is best to let it flow.

I agree, If I could have gotten the ports alittle wider, I would not have messed with the timing at all.

That number on your exhaust is fairly close to mine

Did you raise your exhaust? I raised mine quite a bit trying to center the port to the piston and straighten the sides but yet keep it gentle on the rings. I was shooting for 100 -105, but by the time I got things evened up and the shape that I was looking for, this is what I ended up with....Time will tell....until then?
 
100 on the exhaust I would imagine is fine for a work saw. I raised the roof, but not as much as yours it sounds like. I just compensated for the lowered squish. I was getting 105 for ATDC. I wanted it a little closer to 100. Compression wasn't affected that much.

I do remember the ports were not even down the middle of the bore. I tried my best to even the ports out in perspective to the total bore width we can port these Dolmar jugs. It's tricky business. Not that much room for error!!!
 

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