Matt if the modded saw didnt bog in andrews video I would believe this statement but it "quite obvious it did". The only way to know what you truly have is to run it against a stock saw that always tells the tail ! Something that most rarely do most just fall into the hype of ported saws.
Like I've said before power is power as long as your testing in the same wood you can't get a better dyno.
If you have to run a special chain to find a woods saws "power" then its not much of a work saw, Thats something you have to do with r@cesaws becuse they have more of a narrow powerband and Higher RPM. More fuel = more tourque !
Eric I'm no expert but the more you push on a saw the more friction is produced from other parts of the cutter including the tie straps on the bar etc. If a saw "bogs" more it doesn't always mean that it's the cutters in the wood that's loading it up. I've even had saws load up more due to bad nose sprockets or chain tension.
I can tell you now that even stock saws with out of the box chain perform far better with the rakers dropped and I can say that with a lot of confidence, from my stock 200T with 3/8"LP right up to my 3120 with .404" - from what I gather you are saying that with the same chain setup you have to simply push harder to get it to cut better? I'd rather not push my work saws through the cut all day, my forearms would rather see the chain do more of the work - the LAST thing I want to do is equate faster cutting to harder pushing. In fact if I grab a stock chain now and go felling with it I actually think it's slow despite the saw revving faster which may give the impression it's cutting faster - the only benefit I see to stock raker height under most conditions is less vibrations but to me that's not a biggy. The last modded 660 I had (which had nowhere near the grunt of this thing by the way - it was ported but with lower compression) was sold to a mate with a similar tree/chainsaw business to mine. He sold his stock 660 (and his 880) and bought that particular saw. He said it crapped all over the stock 660 he owned and he doesn't do anything outside the ordinary when sharpening - just Carlton 3/8" semi chisel and a File-O-Plate.
If more fuel = more torque then unless I have a leak this thing has heaps of torque
It's an absolute pig on fuel!
By the way, I'm no idiot and being heavily involved with car modifications over the years I'm well aware that just grabbing a ported saw and "assuming" it will thump a stock saw is wrong - although I know your comment on comparing stock and modded saws may not have been only directed at me. Quite often just the sound of the exhaust will make people think it has more power when dyno testing will prove it hasn't, in fact sometimes even less. Andrew also told me via email that the modded 660 was pulling nearly 2000 more rpm in the cut compared to his stock 660 (they're both fitted with tachos). Why they then pulled similar cut times is beyond me - maybe they weren't loaded the same?
I ran 3 Dolmar/Makita saws side by side in all sorts of stock and modified configurations when felling 1000's of trees from small to large. I don't assume anything when it comes to grunt and modifications. I've seen hype surrounding car mods that don't deliver and I'm well aware the same thing happens with saws.
When I say that this particular 660 is right up the hammer of my 3120 with bars up to 32" I'm not joking (I didn't run bars over 32" on the 660 and never planned to). Unless of course a stock 660 is close to my Aussie delivered 3120 - if it is then we have a problem
In summary I can assure you that the modded saw in the video has quite a bit more poke that the stocker, despite the video not necessarily proving that.
