Anybody use semi chisel anymore

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I have never experienced this, but physics would say it will come towards the operator if it breaks on the top side as it is being pulled in that direction. Hence modern saws have both a chain stop and a hand guard. Ron

Yeah it would like a big swing even if the sprocket has stopped pulling it.
 
Safety tip, do you ever check the wear and play in the rivets in the saw chain.?
I have never seen a rivet fail; that does not mean that it does not happen. I have seen some cutters and tie straps break at the rivet hole; they are usually heavily worn at the bottom, and likely subjected to some shock loading or run when dull.

One of the reasons I clean chains before sharpening is to be able to inspect them better for wear, cracks, etc.

Some guys will grind down their rivet heads to make 'race' chains, which weakens the connection. And I have seen several poorly set rivets, when someone tries to reuse them, or apparently peens them with a rock, instead of a spinner.

The other trick with joining odd chain you need to match the wear of the straps or it'll go tight loose tight loose.
I prefer to spin loops down (make them shorter, using just the original chain material) than spin them up (making them longer by adding new material). If I add new material, it is in at least as good of shape as the existing loop, then I grind the cutters back to fit. If the tie straps are really worn on either, I prefer not to mess with it.

Just for discussion, say a chain lets go when it’s not in wood....Does it sling off the nose?
If the chain breaks on the bottom of the bar, just before it reaches the drive sprocket, most of the remaining chain will get 'pushed' off the top and fall to the ground (only a few, remaining drive links will ever touch the rotating drive sprocket). The remaining chain may have some momentum as it leaves the bar.

If the chain breaks on the top of the bar, just after it leaves the drive sprocket, most of the remaining chain can get whipped around the bar until the drive links lose contact with the sprocket. Remember that the links are traveling around the bar about 20 times/second.

So, a chain catcher is a good idea. So is wearing gloves, chaps, and safety glasses. It is also the reason for the wide, flat, hand guard under the rear handle of modern saws (not just to place your food for starting).

Philbert
 
Haha I remember cos I thought I was going bananas trying get it to cut well enough and you had the same issue's.

Its good to hear the Oregon is better I might give it ago next time. I always thought as of the modern times they were basically same chain but obviously not.
Ya, that Carlton stuff was terrible!!!! I thought it was my filing, so I ran it on the grinder and I dropped the rakers to .030 and it still wouldnt cut for a hill of beans.
 
The majority of chains that I work with are Oregon or STIHL, and in certain pitches / gauges. When I got my spinner / breaker set from Bailey's, I also started ordering presets and tie straps from them. I tried to maintain an 'inventory' of the sizes I thought I might need, adding them onto existing orders to save shipping costs. STIHL presets I buy from my local dealer in bags of 8 or 10 (quantity has changed over the years).

Since then, I have ordered from other dealers, found some on eBay or in the AS trading post, etc. For years, Oregon made many of the OEM chains for McCulloch, Husqvarana, Makita, etc., so their presets are often compatible with a number of other chains.

I keep them sorted in a small 'Plano' box; or small, labeled, zip-lock bags: they can be a bear to sort out correctly if they get mixed up.

Philbert

View attachment 771120 View attachment 771121

We just have them in little coffee creamer tins. Nithing fancy likevwgat you have. Just a marker label... 375", .325", 404, etc.

They aren't too hard to sort out.
 
I’d like to get one of those Oregon’s measuring tools for chain. I got a big bucket of 1/2 used crap has to be sorted through
Most dealers sell them. I have bought them for less than $1 in quantity, and seen them for over $7 other places.

Granberg makes one too, as does STIHL. Check eBay.

Helpful when you have some odd size, a non-standard brand, or just can't get the brain to fire.

I keep one on a nail near where I sort chain.

Philbert
 
Ya, that Carlton stuff was terrible!!!! I thought it was my filing, so I ran it on the grinder and I dropped the rakers to .030 and it still wouldnt cut for a hill of beans.

I wonder what's different about it. I can't compare anything at the moment I'm running on dregs chain wise there all at the end.

I have carlton chisel on my 4000 and it seems to cut fine I'll buy that again

Glad to hear I’m not alone on thinking this way.

Well that's three of us.
 
Referring to Philbert's post #22, I sorted through all of my chain parts some while back and put them all in this small parts organizer. The bins off to the side contain some additional odd ball old McCulloch parts.

20191107_164527.jpg

I am currently preparing a breaker & spinner set to mount on this bench (in the new shop) but rather than mounting it permanently and losing the bench space/access I will mount it to a board that can easily be fastened down when needed or stored conveniently out of the way.

In keeping with the theme of this thread, the bin that contain cutters frequently have chisel and semi-chisel intermixed.

Kevin - I you have the cutters properly sharpened and the depth gauges set, semi-chisel will self feed just fine. For many years the only chains I used were (old) Carlton semi-chisel, I did buy a roll of Carlton .325 / .058 recently but had not had the opportunity to try it yet.

Mark
 
Well I was looking on stihls website they had some semi chisel “rapid micro” or something like that. Anyhow I phone the stihl dealer back and I get the guy who is the owner I believe, guy knows his **** anyway. Says yeah we have some. I say well I asked for semi chisel the other day and your guy said you had none. He says they call it round tooth oh brother :nofunny: so he’s making me a loop lol
 

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