Back In The Shop......Now What's On Your Bench????

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Today's load...View attachment 391773

This is what's still left to get...View attachment 391774
261 checking squish to get the jug cut. Who can tell me how to get the black wire cam attached to the choke/ign part off without breaking it?
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Why do you fellas hold your tiny pieces of solder on to the piston with grease? I just use a longer piece and stick it in the plug or decompression hole. I squish it,measure it and snip the end off then do it again if necessary. The last 066 I did took a lot of pressure to squish one piece of solder to .022
 
Why do you fellas hold your tiny pieces of solder on to the piston with grease? I just use a longer piece and stick it in the plug or decompression hole. I squish it,measure it and snip the end off then do it again if necessary. The last 066 I did took a lot of pressure to squish one piece of solder to .022
I guarantee your measurement was no good. On the opposite side from the solder it was probably half or maybe less than what you measured AND even if you had solder on both sides, with that much force smashing the lead, you have a MIS measurement.
 
I have always checked through the plug hole. Once I went through the trouble of pulling jug and the whole grease thing, ended up with same exact measurement. So now I'm back to plug hole
 
Where can you buy plastigauge?
Your method of media through an access hole works better with solder. You just have to pay attention to how much force it takes to smash it.
Plastigauge is common in auto parts stores but the thickness required for this use is NOT common.
 
I can do two pieces through the plug hole. I'll try it and see what difference it makes.
The more places to put your solder, the more force it's going to take to smash it. Solder that's 5 percent thicker than the gap you're trying to measure will give a more accurate measurement than if it's 50 percent thicker.
 
Why do you fellas hold your tiny pieces of solder on to the piston with grease? I just use a longer piece and stick it in the plug or decompression hole. I squish it,measure it and snip the end off then do it again if necessary. The last 066 I did took a lot of pressure to squish one piece of solder to .022
Yep!
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If you put the master control switch up in the "off" position, you will notice on the side there is a place to put a screw driver so you can pry the master control lever out of the housing. Then you can pop the black wire/connector off the post. Here's my attempt at a picture....lemme know if this helps...I can try and take more.
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Thank you, I saw those two matching bosses and I tried to pry there with no luck. Just need to use more force I suppose.
 
Thank you, I saw those two matching bosses and I tried to pry there with no luck. Just need to use more force I suppose.
Yea it almost seems like an unnecessary amount if force you need to use. It'll pop out though. That's how the service manual shows to do it.
 
What happens if the squish isn't enough? I put together a Husky 61, didn't have a base gasket so I put anerobic sealant. It runs good, but I never did measure the squish (could't find solder in the shop and I was in a time crunch)

It doesn't top out, that I did check.
 
If the squish isn't enough it will tap the combustion chamber as everything heats up and expands.Most Huskys i've checked were ok.stihl is a different story.
 
I literally just had the same problem. I did what you did....just left it, a real PIA.

You got any tricks for dealing with the fuel line once you pull the carb other than stuffing a screw driver in it. This saw dumped out more fuel than most do.

I usually empty the tank. It always works.;););)
 
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