Bar chain sizes for some saws

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merkel

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I am looking to change up my bar sizes on a few of my saws. The 241 is going 16” for smaller stuff and I am tossing around an 18” or 20” for the 261. The 261 will be for limbing so thinking a 20” would give more reach. Currently I am running a 20” on my 462 but if the 261 goes 20” I will move the 462 to 24”. The 462 would fall and buck most of the time In hardwoods. I want to run all Tsumura Light bars on all my saws and prefer 3/8x063 chain. Thoughts on the set-ups?
 
A light on the 241? Not a must for the 241 but want light on the 18” or 20” for the 261. Thoughts on running a 20” 3/8x063 on the 261?
 
A light on the 241? Not a must for the 241 but want light on the 18” or 20” for the 261. Thoughts on running a 20” 3/8x063 on the 261?
If i went 20 on my 261 it would be in .325. I think the sweet spot for the 261 is an 18"bar. JMO.
Like others have said no need for a lite bar on the 241.
 
A light on the 241? Not a must for the 241 but want light on the 18” or 20” for the 261. Thoughts on running a 20” 3/8x063 on the 261?

No point in running .063 on anything under 28", unless you just want to use the same gauge for everything so you can buy reels of chain.

Personally, I don't like 3/8 for limbing. I would much rather run .325. Also, while a 261 will run a 20" with 3/8, it's kinda underwhelming. I really think of the 261 as a 16" bar saw. .325 for limbing and thinning, switch to 3/8 for bucking. If you're dead set on 20", a lightweight bar, either tsumura or just a laminated bar is a great choice.

If you've got a 20" on the 462 now, I'd go to a 28" lightweight. I don't love 24" bars. They're heavier than a 20", but I still have to bend over to reach the ground. A 28" will just get to the ground with a little bend of the knees.
 
Why bend down more then you have to well limbing? I’m in a different sort of situtation but we Fall, Limb, and Buck all with a 32” or longer bar. With this length it allows us to walk down the log grading well limbing and measuring all at the same time.


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I am looking to change up my bar sizes on a few of my saws. The 241 is going 16” for smaller stuff and I am tossing around an 18” or 20” for the 261. The 261 will be for limbing so thinking a 20” would give more reach. Currently I am running a 20” on my 462 but if the 261 goes 20” I will move the 462 to 24”. The 462 would fall and buck most of the time In hardwoods. I want to run all Tsumura Light bars on all my saws and prefer 3/8x063 chain. Thoughts on the set-ups?

A 16”, 18”/20”, 24” on three different saws sounds good.
 
Why bend down more then you have to well limbing? I’m in a different sort of situtation but we Fall, Limb, and Buck all with a 32” or longer bar. With this length it allows us to walk down the log grading well limbing and measuring all at the same time.


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I want to see you limb this thing with your 32". Oh and all the limbs over 4" dia have to be cut to 16" lengths. Just sayin.. 5e91b0e9f73b58c9fdd86d08df8f19a3.jpg
 
I have a 20” and 28” tsumuras that I swap between my 362 and 460.

Awesome bars.

Out ware my Stihl bars for sure.

IMO. The only time I would not take a light weight bar would be milling.

I would love a 16” tsumura
 
You have to remember we junk most hardwoods out here our main one is Red Alder that is still cut into long lengths to ship.


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No listen, you have to remember the Midwest is different then the PNW, different trees being cut for different reasons. The OP is from the Midwest. Your post about using a 32" bar for everything to someone cutting trees in the Midwest for about whatever reason is goofy. No offense but it just plain is.
 
No listen, you have to remember the Midwest is different then the PNW, different trees being cut for different reasons. The OP is from the Midwest. Your post about using a 32" bar for everything to someone cutting trees in the Midwest for about whatever reason is goofy. No offense but it just plain is.

Here’s right from the UP the guy is on here his handle is Blitzer he runs a 32 all the time and just like we do it’s more common then you think it is. Fun fact how many of the pipe line right always are cut by guys from back there? Not many they normally hire guys from back here to come cut the timber one we’re safer two we’re more efficient.
eac741b6012b213ca24b8716d5ab6c9b.jpg

fe48da89e7be286f5d6bae6bd70753d4.jpg



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I want to see you limb this thing with your 32". Oh and all the limbs over 4" dia have to be cut to 16" lengths. Just sayin.. View attachment 818318
Two summers ago I ran into a situation similar to this photo. Buddy had 3 ash trees that has all died at the same time in an open (mowed) field like this one. I dropped all three with my 066. Then I put that saw back in the truck and grabbed my 018C with 14" bar. I lost count but I think I went through 10-12 tanks of fuel on the small stuff (8" diameter and smaller) Then....I fired up the MS260 and cut everything the 18" bar would reach through. Finally, it was back to the 066 to finish the job. Got approx. 9 cords (20 ricks at 21" wood length) out of those 3 trees. That little light weight 018 is the real deal (for a guy who is a 56 year old wimp like me anyway). I can do top-out work endlessly with it and not get tired! Lets me save the heavier pro saws for the big work.
 
I got ridiculed on another site for using my 462 yesterday. The guy thoughtI could have done the job with the 18" bar on my 261. Yes I could have but I had fun running the 462. And I got finished a little quicker. Logging and firewood cutting are 2 different animals. If I was dropping big a$$ trees all day to get volume for a paycheck my choice would be the long bar. For most of my firewood cutting anything in the 16"-25" range works. Good luck to the OP with his new bars.
 
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