Building a 390XP Monster
- Thread starter blsnelling
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RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
I don't care what anybody says, the sound of a ported Husky sounds way better than an equivalent Stihl
Six years ago,,,, I dont think I would have been saying this, but over time I have aquired several and am learning to work on them and I must say I am really liking them more and more,,,,,, my simonized 372 XP and Slinger/RR2'ed 390XP are my favorite saws for falling right now,,, Put 127 tons of timber on the ground/limbed/bucked and to the mill in a little over 3 days,,, and ya know what,,,,, didnt have time to cut one cookie!!!!!!!!!!!
so here goes MCW
"That makes at least 6 of us!!!!!"
There I said it!!!! coming from an old Creamsicle guy thats a mouthfull!!!!
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I like thatNow, if I could get someone to build me a nice pipe for it....!
You mean you haven't tried that already? Did you have to do anything to the carb and vent on the 390xp?
mrgoodkat
ArboristSite Operative
I've wanted a 390xp for so long I can't stand it but everytime I have the money something happens. At least I have some new vids to live vicariously through lol! That's definitely an intimidating saw to hear running.
NORMZILLA44
Addicted to ArboristSite
Now you just need to find a big tree job Brad, and let that beast shine!
deezelman
ArboristSite Operative
dull chain or not that thing rips. very sweet saw. im jelous. in the first video could you feel the difference from the 7 pin to the 8?
Oh yeah. It pulled the 8-pin fine, but I like the added torque in a work saw that a 7-pin gives.
deezelman
ArboristSite Operative
sure sounded like she handled it with ease. was just courious if you could feel it. great thread cant wait to see how it runs after the added compression.
NORMZILLA44
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think 7 pin is the ticket. Tried 8 too, but think they do better on shorter bars. So big tree job soon Brad? Be a nice touch, be a best seller!
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
I agree Brad. I don't use an 8 pin on anything over a 24" bar now. In really hard stuff I even run a 7 pin with a 24" bar on occasions.
Good job
I don't care what anybody says, the sound of a ported Husky sounds way better than an equivalent Stihl
Here's my Snellerized 385XP set at about 14,300, with 4 exhaust ports on the muffler, and a cold start. This puppy is leaned out a bit, but you get the idea of how a ported 385xp/390xp can sound. I have yet to hear a Stihl in person that sounded anything like this saw(Crank yer audio up!):
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4dWYBy2fPSs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
And that puppy there is buried in a leaning Beech tree that has been in the shade all it's life. Rock hard gets thrown around a lot, but that is the hardest tree I have ever cut in my life.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
wyk,
I think you have been away from home too long.
I think you have been away from home too long.
I miss it, that's for sure. Oh, forgot to add in my last post that the sound from the Beech snapping is loud enough to actually clip the audio on that video. It's also obviously louder than the saw.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Ya mean that near 'chair ya got from monkey####in' around with the trunk?
The saw does sing well.
The saw does sing well.
I admit I don't have a lot of experience bore cutting as some, especially in hardwoods that are very heavy leaners like that one(it was also a very tall tree, as well). But that there is a textbook example of how the outfit I was with wants you to do them, so that's how I did them(well, I eventually went to less of an angle on the back cut because the angle they wanted I could feel pinching the bar on occasion). I've had a few pull like that, but none have chaired me yet. You know I value your experience and opinions, Randy, and if you got a safer way to do such a tree, I'd certainly like to know it. I've asked them about doing a post cut, but they say that is guaranteed to get a barber chair on a leaning Beech or Ash in these parts if it isn't perfect.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Sure enough, try a "T" or Coos Bay cut and go a bit deeper on the under cut. Gary GASoline posted a good diagram on those, I'll see if I can find it.
