Carbon Analysis On Piston Crown

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A couple more polyolester oils to consider are: Silkolene Pro 2T, Maxima K2, and Motul 800 2T. Call me paranoid if you like:), but I like the idea of running 32:1 if I can. I may just buy a bottle of each of these and see how they do. I may also just throw some R50 in there at 50:1 and see how that does. Yes, I know I'm over analyzing this, but I enjoy it.
 
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blsnelling said:
A quick search shows that Dominator is NOT an ester based oil. It is a PAO. So who makes an ester based oil with a strong detergent additive package?
Click to expand...

Fuchs might have an answer for you...and it's fun to say.
 
blsnelling said:
I don't know. But that's not really a variable I can control. I'm not willing to pay the price to run unleaded race gas in my OPE, and I don't like 100LL.

At this point I think I'm down to two choices. R50 at 50:1 or switching to Dominator. I think I'd start at 32:1 just to see what happens.
Click to expand...

BCMs answer was to not run premium unleaded or mid range unleaded road gas because of the deposits it leaves behind. Regular unleaded did not do this any where near as much. The techs would laugh when tearing down a motor and say "Oh yeah another Hi-test guy"
I was not advocating "special" gas for saws. As I said I've changed my thoughts on this subject completely. I used to run all 2 strokes rich on oil because that's the way my father taught me. Now I see over oiling as more of a danger than a help. It is an attempt to "save something to death" How many pistons have you seen with a big ugly score from a carbon chip that broke free and got wedged between tha piston and cyl wall. Carbon buildup is not good for any motor and it will not reach a point and stop building up. Carbon will adhere to itself better than anything else. In a water cooled 2 strokes it will eventually lead to "coking" which is a term used to describe severe carbon formations which will cause your rings to seize, break and you know the rest of scenario. Carbon is the "killer" of 2 strokes. I just thought it interesting that the guys "in the know" who routinely build and race 160 Horsepower, 180 MPH 2 cylinder motors would recommend a lesser grade of gas to help solve the carbon issue.
 
2000ssm6 said:
Why not quit all the oil guessing:dizzy: and just go with Ultra? After all, it was designed for chainsaws....
Click to expand...

blsnelling said:
If I could find evidence that it's a ester oil, I just might do that. I want the best for my equipment.
Click to expand...

I just don't get it...I'm sure Stihl let "their" oil people design oil that will make your saw self-destruct:dizzy: Did I mention that I don't get it...

:cheers:
Mike
 
Cantdog said:
BCMs answer was to not run premium unleaded or mid range unleaded road gas because of the deposits it leaves behind. Regular unleaded did not do this any where near as much. The techs would laugh when tearing down a motor and say "Oh yeah another Hi-test guy"
I was not advocating "special" gas for saws. As I said I've changed my thoughts on this subject completely. I used to run all 2 strokes rich on oil because that's the way my father taught me. Now I see over oiling as more of a danger than a help. It is an attempt to "save something to death" How many pistons have you seen with a big ugly score from a carbon chip that broke free and got wedged between tha piston and cyl wall. Carbon buildup is not good for any motor and it will not reach a point and stop building up. Carbon will adhere to itself better than anything else. In a water cooled 2 strokes it will eventually lead to "coking" which is a term used to describe severe carbon formations which will cause your rings to seize, break and you know the rest of scenario. Carbon is the "killer" of 2 strokes. I just thought it interesting that the guys "in the know" who routinely build and race 160 Horsepower, 180 MPH 2 cylinder motors would recommend a lesser grade of gas to help solve the carbon issue.
Click to expand...

Does this lesser grade contain ethonal?
 
TRI955 said:
I just don't get it...I'm sure Stihl let "their" oil people design oil that will make your saw self-destruct:dizzy: Did I mention that I don't get it...

:cheers:
Mike
Click to expand...

I'm not remotely suggesting it's not good oil. But I'm not going to use it just because it says Stihl on the bottle, or because everyone else is running it. The fact that it's very good doesn't mean it's the best. It's my perfectionistic, or OCD, tendencies coming out, lol. I'm not knocking you, I just enjoy the search and want to run the best oil I can. I've gotten a lot of great replies here, and I appreciate it. Hopefully it benifits others along the way.
 
Brad, not trying to give you a hard time....I guess I'm getting like my dad in some respects, if it's working, why F with it!! LOL!!! Good luck with your search Brad, I hope you find what your looking for.

:cheers:
Mike
 
Brad's OCD coupled with CAD...what a ride. All I can say is it's a good thing you never got started on crack. :dizzy:
 
It's all good:cheers: I'm enjoying it, you guys are helping me out. I stopped down at the motorcycle shop at lunch time, and I bought a bottle of Maxima K2, one of the oils mentioned above that is also an ester oil. It was the only other one they had. I'm going to give that a whirl at 32:1 and see if it's any different. If not, I'll reduce my mix ratio.
 
blsnelling said:
I'm not remotely suggesting it's not good oil. But I'm not going to use it just because it says Stihl on the bottle, or because everyone else is running it. The fact that it's very good doesn't mean it's the best. It's my perfectionistic, or OCD, tendencies coming out, lol. I'm not knocking you, I just enjoy the search and want to run the best oil I can. I've gotten a lot of great replies here, and I appreciate it. Hopefully it benifits others along the way.
Click to expand...

Hey Brad

Finally after my 36hr shift I can log back on and am really happy reading the last pages of this thread.

I would like to recapitulate a few things:

1. A racing bike company recommends regular gas for engines designed for it.
2. You are experimenting with oil after your experience, as far as I remember, of an AS log cutter running a really lean saw with baileys woodland pro oil, and the inside looked execellent.
3. You are not only running your saw oil rich => 32:1, but also runnig it slower than it's designed for and are irritated about carbon build up.

For me the essence of this discussion sofar is quite easy.

1. Buy regular 89 octane gas. No high octane or race gas or anything else special.
2. Run my full synthetic unknown brand at ~ 40:1.
3. Always mix small batches that I can use up in a short time.
4. Stay close to max rpm the saw is designed for, at least that is sufficient for my needs and I would never notice the difference when cutting my firewood.

smilie_happy_011.gif


Good luck amigo!

And I am really interested in the next posts comming in.

Greetings

7
 
blsnelling said:
A quick search shows that Dominator is NOT an ester based oil. It is a PAO. So who makes an ester based oil with a strong detergent additive package?
Click to expand...

Maxima Formula K2, Silkolene comp 2 premix or pro 2 sx. Brad I have a few bottles of Maxima K2 and Silkolene pro 2 sx, just let me know which one you want to try. K2 has a lower flash point at 240F VS 400F for R50. It's also a much thinner oil than R50 or Silkolene, so that's the one I'd try, it also has a better additive package than R50. I've been running this oil for about a week now, and so far I like better than Klotz.:popcorn: http://www.maximausa.com/products/2stroke/formulak2.asp

Edit. Brad I see you already have some K2. I couldn't find it locally, so I ended up ordering some K2 off the net. If you can find it locally I'll likely start running it when I burn up all the R50 I have.:cheers:
 
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