Chainsaw gas:oil mixture ratio

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Justin, welcome to the site. You managed to get me again, an 11 year old thread. I'm retired from a 4th generation tree service. The OP, who only posted once, was concerned about a 70's Mac. All of your equipment is pretty much brand new and designed to run on 50:1. What do you run your old stuff on? I had an old Homelite 7-29 that was designed to run on 10:1, doubled as a mosquito fogger. I was just messin with you a little. We sometimes go off the deep end on oil mix threads. Again, welcome aboard, Joe.
I run everything I have on Amsoil Saber 80:1. Now my dad ran stihl original orange mix 50:1 in his but I also remember him going to saw shops and having carbs rebuilt and motor work done. I'e used my ms660 36" bar in -5 to 102 and it' never failed me it's 7 years old. Less oil with the same protection why not. My step dad was a gas station tech for 22 years and if he says don' use 91 because of moisture content I just don' use it. Amsoil has it on their website it' guarantee to protect all mix ratios. I used to have nasty black residue leak all over the front of my saws and now I don't. Even if u mix it at 50:1 it' just a better product all around. Just my humble opinion.
 
Oils are so much different today than they used to be. Who would imagine a car recommending 0w20. Buddy just bought a Chrysler 200 sent me a pic says 0w20 right there on the cap.
 
Oils are so much different today than they used to be. Who would imagine a car recommending 0w20. Buddy just bought a Chrysler 200 sent me a pic says 0w20 right there on the cap.

Idk if motor oil is any better today and that's y they suggest 0w20. New car engines are much different than engines of the 80s and 90s. New cars are more electronic and use the oil to run components of the engine so a 40 weight oil would be to thick for that. An all mechanical engine with push rods and lifters has a lot more metal parts hitting each other and could use more lube. I consider a chainsaw to be primitive therefore I'm all about a little more oil.
 
Oils are a lot better today than they were even 20 years ago. The metals that are used today dissipate heat better and the electronic carbs are more finick. Its not only using less oil it' using better oil.
 
guarantee to protect all mix ratios

Does that mean that if the MFG calls for 32:1 and you use their oil and it fails they'll warranty it?
So, if the MFG calls for 50:1 but you mix to 80:1 you're out on a limb... that's what I think.
I'll say it again, oil is cheap insurance. Somewhere there's got to be a balance between thin enough to run clean and thick enough to stay lubed.
There's nowhere local for me to get ethanol free gas so making sure that my fuel is fresh and proper mix ratio with quality oil is all I can really do.
Old fuel = bad fuel.
 
Does that mean that if the MFG calls for 32:1 and you use their oil and it fails they'll warranty it?
So, if the MFG calls for 50:1 but you mix to 80:1 you're out on a limb... that's what I think.
I'll say it again, oil is cheap insurance. Somewhere there's got to be a balance between thin enough to run clean and thick enough to stay lubed.
There's nowhere local for me to get ethanol free gas so making sure that my fuel is fresh and proper mix ratio with quality oil is all I can really do.
Old fuel = bad fuel.
Best post. He is not mixing to correct manufacturers recommend ratio.
 
Does that mean that if the MFG calls for 32:1 and you use their oil and it fails they'll warranty it?
So, if the MFG calls for 50:1 but you mix to 80:1 you're out on a limb... that's what I think.
I'll say it again, oil is cheap insurance. Somewhere there's got to be a balance between thin enough to run clean and thick enough to stay lubed.
There's nowhere local for me to get ethanol free gas so making sure that my fuel is fresh and proper mix ratio with quality oil is all I can really do.
Old fuel = bad fuel.
Yes I've emailed amsoil and they will warranty it. If I didn' know it worked I wouldn't use it. I buy a 6 pack of stihl synthetic because it doubles the factory warranty and give it away. Same protection less oil win win
 
Either way I won't be putting 0w20 in any engines older than 2010 or with high miles on them. I'm not going to run 80:1 in any saw especially my old 051.
I told him I wouldn't run 0w20 he takes my word on mechanical stuff. I told him I'd run 5w30 at least. I use royal purple for vehicles.
 
I told him I wouldn't run 0w20 he takes my word on mechanical stuff. I told him I'd run 5w30 at least. I use royal purple for vehicles.

So if you would run heavier oil in a car than the manufacturer suggests then y mix it lighter in a chainsaw?

The oil discussion is one thing on this forum that will never have an answer. It's the same as what's better stihl or husky. Whatever works for ya.
 
Per Amsoil:
WHAT THIS LIMITED WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER:

Failure of equipment due to not following original equipment manufacturer (hereinafter, “OEM”) recommendations for warranty coverage, including lubricants, maintenance and drain intervals, prior to the first installation of AMSOIL lubricants, or any other pre-existing condition or OEM defect unrelated to the use of AMSOIL.

https://www.amsoil.com/warranty/

You're foooooling yourself, or is that fueling yourself.
 
Motor oil and mix are different. Oil pumps and direct injection. Yes they want cover any damage done prior to using amsoil. That' s what that says
 
It's hard to argue that if you don't follow the OEM recommendations that IT'S NOT COVERED.
Now, you can extall the products quality and your excellent experience but when it's all over and done mixing at other than the OEM recommendation is not covered by the Amsoil warranty. Damage would be deemed a result of the consumers negligence for not following OEM warranty requirements.
 
Back
Top