Do Chainsaws Cut Better Closer to the Motor?

[Dan_IN_MN]

OP, see what you're responsible for!

Okay...this is the point where I'm supposed to start scolding members for not being more serious and answering a newbie's question.

But I can't...I'm laughing too hard. You guys made my whole morning and I had to give up altogether on trying to drink coffee and read your posts. I'm spending way too much time wiping spray off of the monitor and keyboard and my wife came in, very concerned, thinking I was choking to death.
Now, be nice!

Happytule...the answer to your question is YES. Mostly. And welcome to AS.

OP, see what you're responsible for!



Sharpen your chain. If you have to push/lean on your saw, the chain is dull and/or your depth gauges aren't set correctly. What size of chips are you getting? This is one of the most valuable things I've learned from these guys here.

The other thing I've learned is to not post when I'm half asleep.

 

[Blazin]

can I set you on fire?

Oh that's just beautiful :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

 

[stihl sawing]

It cuts better cause it's closer to the Kidibilin pin.

 

[Blazin]

This is probably so basic you will all ridicule me, so spit on me, throw rotten veggies, pluck my beard.

But I'm pretty sure that my chainsaws both cut better at the base of the bar than at the nose.

Is this because there's more weight, from the motor, and my hands pushing down?

Is this why those bucking dogs were invented?

Are the bottom of your bars all fuzzy and purple???? :msp_rolleyes:

 

[Muffler Bearing]

can I set you on fire?

Priceless !

:msp_biggrin:

 

[Philbert]

(Sorry OP)

The short answer is 'No', sort of.

The chain is the chain, and the cutters are the cutters, no matter where they are on the bar. However, if you are bucking a log at the middle of the bar, on the bottom, you also have to hold the saw back - the reactive force of the chain cutting toward you into the log is the chain pulling the saw forward, away from you. If you are bucking this same log tight against the motor housing (or the dogs), the log keeps the saw from being pulled forward, so it is easier on you - less holding force.

As was (sort of) noted above, if you dig the dogs into the wood, you can also lever the bar into the work. Try this without the dogs and you just lift the bar out of the kerf.

If you are using a longer bar, or cutting on the top of the bar, the part of the chain that is in tension (between the drive sprocket and the wood) is longer, so it is possible that there would be increased friction along the bar, reducing some cutting power, but I don't know if this is something that you would notice.

Also, all the other stuff the distinguished members have said above.

Philbert

 

[Mastermind]

can I set you on fire?

Repped!

 

[Trx250r180]

have you tried the top of the bar ? ,sometimes that side of the chain is sharper

 

[Icehouse]

:agree2:

 

[excess650]

Repped!

Thanks for the reminder! :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[braiding4fun]

have you tried the top of the bar ? ,sometimes that side of the chain is sharper

 

[thomas1]

It's all about torque. The further you get away from the center of rotation the more force you have to overcome. If you have a 1 kilogram weight on a 1 meter long bar it takes 1 kilometer to move it. If you move that same weight 2 meters away it will take 2 kilometers to move it.

If a chainsaw doesn't cut better closer to the power head then why doesn't everyone just cut with tips of their bars?

 

[Trx250r180]

It's all about torque. The further you get away from the center of rotation the more force you have to overcome. If you have a 1 kilogram weight on a 1 meter long bar it takes 1 kilometer to move it. If you move that same weight 2 meters away it will take 2 kilometers to move it.

If a chainsaw doesn't cut better closer to the power head then why doesn't everyone just cut with tips of their bars?

i don't speak canadian ,can you translate this ?

 

[o8f150]

what i have found is put the chain on backwards and hold the saw backwards and it will cut fine,, best cutting closer to the power head

 

[Franny K]

what i have found is put the chain on backwards and hold the saw backwards and it will cut fine,, best cutting closer to the power head

Do you wrap the starter chord differently to start the saw running backwards?

 

[Philbert]

Again, just in case the OP has not wisely turned and run. . .

It's all about torque. The further you get away from the center of rotation the more force you have to overcome.

The torque or moment on a gear sprocket is the distance from the center point to the outside rim; e.g the radius. Not the distance to the tree.

If a chainsaw doesn't cut better closer to the power head then why doesn't everyone just cut with tips of their bars?

Kickback?

Philbert

 

[Frogfarmer]

Vaginia!

Isnt that Stihl headquarters?


Your answer was touched on in a previous post. It is about leverage. The closer YOU are to the item being worked upon the easier it will seem. With the wood againt the power head many forces are easily controlled. You are not fighting the reactionary force of the chain being pulled through the wood. Also the twist of the bar in the cut is reduced and the chain is easier for the power head to pull.

 

[nmurph]

The torque supplied by the motor is exactly the same measured at any point along the chain. The leverage an operator can exert on a chain changes with the distance from the fulcrum (handles).


Yes, I've done that to cows...and made steers from yearlings more times than I care to mention.

 

[HuskStihl]

It's all about torque. The further you get away from the center of rotation the more force you have to overcome. If you have a 1 kilogram weight on a 1 meter long bar it takes 1 kilometer to move it. If you move that same weight 2 meters away it will take 2 kilometers to move it.

I'll try to put it in terms you can understand and use round numbers to make the math easier.

Say you have a 20 meter hydro pole. At the end of the pole is a 10 liter bucket of poutine. That means that there is 200 litermeters of force on the end of the pole. Now if you replace that 10 liter bucket with something larger, say a cow, the force at the end on the pole would increase. Conversely, the length of the pole would decrease by approximately 30cm.

The pole would be horizontal. If it was vertical, there would be no torque as all the force would be inline with the pole and torque measures rotational forces.

There would be no need for you to climb, you could just back up and jump on the pole like you're used to doing.

My reply may have been slightly farcical.

That was probably the overall funniest thread I've read. Thanks to the OP for the great setup, to Randy Mac for the best first response ever, and to Thomas for the funniest #### I've seen in a while! See what happens when you use your wit for good instead of evil?:msp_biggrin:

 

[happytule]

That was probably the overall funniest thread I've read. Thanks to the OP for the great setup, to Randy Mac for the best first response ever, and to Thomas for the funniest #### I've seen in a while! See what happens when you use your wit for good instead of evil?:msp_biggrin:

I'm happy to take one for the team (unlike the cow).

I think you might be right about the responses being funny, although I think this thread (which was how I found this site) might be better: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/131997.htm

Yesterday I was telling my wife something chainsaw related and I referred to "the blade". As soon as I said it I stopped and laughed thinking about how glad I was that no one here heard me say that.

Oh, wait, did I just type that out loud?