Homelite410
Hack with a CNC Mill
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2010
- Messages
- 5,210
- Reaction score
- 9,099
Put some time on the lickity tonight and I see how the big long wedge is a huge advantage! Split 20" red elm dry without putting up a fuss at all.
What do you know about the 26EK30?That splitter is a EK308. It doesn't have the automatic back-and-forth cycling but it does have the automatic idle and return.
That is the splitter I have Lowell Webb said it was a very good machine but not the top of the line. He said it was popular in rental yards.
What happen you sell it ?Stuck my 26MK34F on ebay, lets see what happens, Joe.
Do you still have your Lickity Log Splitter? I recently came across a 25SBS25TW that I just put a new Predator motor on. It works well but I need to get new o-rings for the cylinder. Just wanted to let you know that there is at least one other machine like yours out there.thats what i thought to. I swear I am still the only one with a compact 25abs25 lickity log splitter. I will post some picks later this week i just stripped the whole thing down and in the process of rebuilding it.
I'll do that. Thanks for the info.Do a search for Webbs Farm Supply, they bought out Lickity and have parts, Joe.
I know this post is old but I need help I was wondering if that PDF manual was still available as I need one badly I just acquired this thing and I have to make it work because it looks so damn cool splits good but won't shift not enough throw on the shift cylinderLICKITY lOG SPLITTER
Not sure how old this post is but i have a Lickity Split Log Splitter I have used for years and love it. If I can help you out at all just contact me. I also have a PDF of the manual for a model MK348 I can send you if needed. Here is the link to my you tube channel with the video of my Splitter. Enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/user/MrDanoconnor?feature=mhum
Dan O'Connor has ther manuals - he has been very helpful for me and others. For the ram to return automatically, I had to adjust the threaded rod end of the actuation rod at the valve to get mine to shift at the end of the stroke. It took a little fooling around but it's easy to make the adjustment.I know this post is old but I need help I was wondering if that PDF manual was still available as I need one badly I just acquired this thing and I have to make it work because it looks so damn cool splits good but won't shift not enough throw on the shift cylinder
Can I ask what oil your running in your machineDan O'Connor has ther manuals - he has been very helpful for me and others. For the ram to return automatically, I had to adjust the threaded rod end of the actuation rod at the valve to get mine to shift at the end of the stroke. It took a little fooling around but it's easy to make the adjustment.
I had to replace the motor. The original Briggs was blown and Harbor Freight has a nice little replacement that bolts right on - all the holes line up - for $99 if you have the coupon. So I am running whatever oil was recommended with the motor. For the hydraulics, I used some NAPA hydraulic fluid. Not that I'm particularly well versed with things like this but I didn't understand why they used 30W motor oil and I decided that hydraulic fluid was better formulated for this kind of use. I drained all the old stuff out (and it was very ugly - a combination of 30W, hydraulic fluid that someone had added, and water from sitting in a backyard for a few years) and changed the filter which I also got at NAPA. It leaks a little from both the valve and the ram (and I changed the O-rich on the ram) but not so much as to pose a problem. I figured that the ram leak provides a little lubrication for the brass shoes on the beam as the ram extends and retracts.Can I ask what oil your running in your machine
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