Dolmar 421, Stihl 250/251, 241 or 261

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Stihl 250 or 251,241 or 261 or Dolmar 421

  • Dolmar 421

  • Stihl 251

  • Stihl 250

  • Stihl 241

  • Stihl 261


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Computer? All Ive seen is an ignition coil with a sensor that senses rpm and controls a solenoid on the carb. The rest of the saw is the exact same as a standard quad saw.
 
The carb is the same as a standard carb with the exception of the fuel solenoid in place of the manual high/low side adjustments
 
Sorry I thought they had auto tune.
Ive never seen or used autotune but the mtronics system is a really simple system. Just the programmed ignition coil and a solenoid. Im not really up on the diagnostic app. They have at the dealer but do know that 9 times out of 10 if there is an mtronics error its the fuel solenoid which is about 12$ and takes maybe 2 minutes to change
 
And the MS241 and MS261 are not simple enough for everyone to work on?
Sorry I thought they had auto tune.
And were/are strato. Isn't there really 6 transfer and strato ports.

I am sure changing the pull chord, spark plug, servicing the cutting attachment, servicing the air filter, and normal stuff I might do over the years is basically the same. I also do not think problems on here sound like my friends that use the most modern site work machines. They say once a problem is detected, a fault I suppose about all you can do is limp to a flat area and call service.
 
Windthrown I would venture to say you are against ported saws and also 32:1 oil ratio? Are u a 50:1 style guy?

You continue to make grand sweeping statements and presume to know things. Why would I be against 32:1 oil, and what does that have to do with porting? Oil ratio has nothing to do with porting. Nor is more oil going to save a turd or a ported saw that is too far beyond its design limits (for example, bearing stress) . Also you say I am against porting saws, which is also completely inaccurate. Yet... you make these statements and presumptions about me.

If you must know (though you claim to know everything already, hence this is likely a waste of my time), I am not set on any particular oil ratio, though I prefer and recommend 40:1, and more precisely 42:1 because that is what you get when you add 3 oz. of oil per gallon of gas. A tad more oil makes for a better ring seal and helps lubricate the low end better -on any 2-stroke saw, not just ported ones-. I also use premium non-ethanol E-0 gas, if you must know. I am also not against porting saws, and I have ported quite a few of my own to various levels. What I am against is the constant reply to everyone here that asks 'what saw to buy' is: get it ported, man! Regardless of make, model, experience of the user, need, finances, intended use, etc. etc. The answer is always: get the saw ported. The saw modders have so saturated this marketplace that ported saws are the end all to everything, which they are simply not. Nor are the saw modders infallible, but you profess that they can only make perfect saws 100% of the time and they never make turds. Which simply is not the case, nor is it even statistically possible.

There are other issues about porting saws though. One is that once a saw is ported, you cannot get them worked on at a shop. By law, shops have to restore any saw that they work on to original condition and that all EPA devices work as they did when the saw was new. For that reason a lot of people around here will not buy a ported saw. Another common theme with ported saws that I have seen on sites like this are that people get saws ported, and either they do not meet their expectations and think they are turds, or they exceed their expecations and the saws are too much for them. Either way, they wind up selling those saws. I have also seen a lot of ported saws up for trade for the same model stock saws. Again, the ported saws are not what the owner wants or wanted, for whatever reason and they offload them. Now that said, if you are in need of a saw that is lighter and has more power, great! Get it ported! But do some research first, as I believe that some porting methods are far better than others (I go with a squish cut mod myself). Or if you race saws, well then, port it or come in last. That is a different world though, and it is well known in these parts that a race ported saw will not last long. Nor will they run for long without overheating. I also know a lot of fallers that have had saws woods ported, and in many cases, they filed far earlier than their stock counterparts. Just my experience and what I have seen here.
 
And were/are strato. Isn't there really 6 transfer and strato ports.

I am sure changing the pull chord, spark plug, servicing the cutting attachment, and normal stuff I might do over the years is basically the same. I also do not think problems on here sound like my friends that use the most modern site work machines. They say once a problem is detected, a fault I suppose about all you can do is limp to a flat area and call service.
There is a recalibration process that usually clears most glitches that takes about 3 minutes to follow
 
The carb is the same as a standard carb with the exception of the fuel solenoid in place of the manual high/low side adjustments

But I don't have to "tune" anything right, it is the magic system that mechanical handicapped people can use?

Someone mentioned it being useful to learn how to tune a carb, in regards to the 421, would learning how to tune a carb be useful regarding my MS661?
 
You continue to make grand sweeping statements and presume to know things. Why would I be against 32:1 oil, and what does that have to do with porting? Oil ratio has nothing to do with porting. Nor is more oil going to save a turd or a ported saw that is too far beyond its design limits (for example, bearing stress) . Also you say I am against porting saws, which is also completely inaccurate. Yet... you make these statements and presumptions about me.

If you must know (though you claim to know everything already, hence this is likely a waste of my time), I am not set on any particular oil ratio, though I prefer and recommend 40:1, and more precisely 42:1 because that is what you get when you add 3 oz. of oil per gallon of gas. A tad more oil makes for a better ring seal and helps lubricate the low end better -on any 2-stroke saw, not just ported ones-. I also use premium non-ethanol E-0 gas, if you must know. I am also not against porting saws, and I have ported quite a few of my own to various levels. What I am against is the constant reply to everyone here that asks 'what saw to buy' is: get it ported, man! Regardless of make, model, experience of the user, need, finances, intended use, etc. etc. The answer is always: get the saw ported. The saw modders have so saturated this marketplace that ported saws are the end all to everything, which they are simply not. Nor are the saw modders infallible, but you profess that they can only make perfect saws 100% of the time and they never make turds. Which simply is not the case, nor is it even statistically possible.

There are other issues about porting saws though. One is that once a saw is ported, you cannot get them worked on at a shop. By law, shops have to restore any saw that they work on to original condition and that all EPA devices work as they did when the saw was new. For that reason a lot of people around here will not buy a ported saw. Another common theme with ported saws that I have seen on sites like this are that people get saws ported, and either they do not meet their expectations and think they are turds, or they exceed their expecations and the saws are too much for them. Either way, they wind up selling those saws. I have also seen a lot of ported saws up for trade for the same model stock saws. Again, the ported saws are not what the owner wants or wanted, for whatever reason and they offload them. Now that said, if you are in need of a saw that is lighter and has more power, great! Get it ported! But do some research first, as I believe that some porting methods are far better than others (I go with a squish cut mod myself). Or if you race saws, well then, port it or come in last. That is a different world though, and it is well known in these parts that a race ported saw will not last long. Nor will they run for long without overheating. I also know a lot of fallers that have had saws woods ported, and in many cases, they filed far earlier than their stock counterparts. Just my experience and what I have seen here.

I do not think many suggestedgetting the 421 ported, people seem more "port happy".... if you will, regarding Stihl and Husky.
 
Hey, this guy had a intriguing question.


But I don't have to "tune" anything right, it is the magic system that mechanical handicapped people can use?

Someone mentioned it being useful to learn how to tune a carb, in regards to the 421, would learning how to tune a carb be useful regarding my MS661?

And useful regarding any other M-tronic's saw
 
But I don't have to "tune" anything right, it is the magic system that mechanical handicapped people can use?

Someone mentioned it being useful to learn how to tune a carb, in regards to the 421, would learning how to tune a carb be useful regarding my MS661?
Michael your 661 is mtronics the same as the 241c and 261c and wont require tuning. The 241c and 261c will both operate the same as the 661 you have
 
But I don't have to "tune" anything right, it is the magic system that mechanical handicapped people can use?

Someone mentioned it being useful to learn how to tune a carb, in regards to the 421, would learning how to tune a carb be useful regarding my MS661?
Are these things tools or a hobby for you.

There are porting threads on here about the Dolmar 420. It is a less complex cylinder If you do not tamper with the muffler the saw should be delivered correctly. I find if you buy in person from the owner of a dealership they generally say run it for a while and bring it back for a check up. Only once did I bother to do that no charge.
 
Michael your 661 is mtronics the same as the 241c and 261c and wont require tuning. The 241c and 261c will both operate the same as the 661 you have

Yah, ok but earlier talking about shade-tree mechanics, people were saying that

I do try and buy a saw that fits my needs. I don't want to have to buy a saw then spend more money and have a saw built to fit my needs. Although having a hot rod is fun but we all know they are not best for trips back and forth across the country.
For storm clean up , if your saw breaks you are not going to find a shop with any free time to fix your saw or get you parts if needed. That is why the 421 is a great choice very reliable and easy enough to work on any small engine guy / back yard mechanic can work on it.

And then KG441c said that M-tronic saws DO have carb adjustments simply that the magic M-tronic's God's do all the adjusting for those of us who pay heed to their rumbling vibrations.

So if there are carb adjustments to be had on my saw, why are they there if I can only screw things up "adjusting" things?
 
Are these things tools or a hobby for you.

There are porting threads on here about the Dolmar 420. It is a less complex cylinder If you do not tamper with the muffler the saw should be delivered correctly. I find if you buy in person from the owner of a dealership they generally say run it for a while and bring it back for a check up. Only once did I bother to do that no charge.

A little of both, but the hobby part is more about the knowledge relating to how the tools work.... does that make sense?
 
Yah, ok but earlier talking about shade-tree mechanics, people were saying that



And then KG441c said that M-tronic saws DO have carb adjustments simply that the magic M-tronic's God's do all the adjusting for those of us who pay heed to their rumbling vibrations.

So if there are carb adjustments to be had on my saw, why are they there if I can only screw things up "adjusting" things?
I prefer manual carbs myself and control of my tune but for anyone that doesnt know how to tune or doesnt care to have to the mtronics is simply a Godsend as it will take care of all adjustments for you. Tuning is fun to me Michael and not hard to learn but if u miscalculate and go too lean its easy to burn the equipment up
 
For the love of all that's holy I have no idea why I'm weighing into this.

I earn money with saws, about 1/4-1/3 of my working days. I have a mix of stock, lightly modded and ported saws.

Opinion 1 - there is more in correct chain choice and sharpening than in having a saw ported when it comes to wood on the ground at the end of the day.

Opinion 2 - ported saws are offensive in urban environments - until you start a chipper, then go your hardest.

Opinion 3 - if you end up a long way from fuel, stock or lightly modded saws put more wood on the ground.

Opinion 4 - in steep/difficult work a ported saw means you can carry a smaller saw to run the required bar length.

Opinion 5 - some saws virtually need modifications to get back what the EPA has forced upon them. Anything with a cat in the muffler should be modified irrespective of warranty concerns. Maybe run a tank or two to make sure it's ok, but mod that damn thing straight away.

Opinion 6 - some saws are pretty sweet out of the box, but none that I know of can't be improved. On some saws these improvements force a different set of compromises that don't suit every user.
The 241 is one of these saws, it is incredibly economical and I could take advantage of how long it runs on a tank of fuel. Some modifications have little bearing on a saws fuel economy, some modifications have a big bearing.

Opinion 7 - the worst of the saws being discussed in this thread - the 250/251 will do the job of limbing out blow downs for years and years absolutely stock. I have a husky 445 that is probably a similar quality saw that has done countless hours, worn out several bars and is still earning money.

Opinion 8 - if only my penis was a little longer, my opinions would be facts.
 
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