Dolmar 421, Stihl 250/251, 241 or 261

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Stihl 250 or 251,241 or 261 or Dolmar 421

  • Dolmar 421

  • Stihl 251

  • Stihl 250

  • Stihl 241

  • Stihl 261


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Michaelmj11

ArboristSite Operative
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First off, I want to ask 2 questions: which saw/brand. AND can I use the same 20 inch chains I use on my MS 661??

I just got finished doing 3 weeks of mission clean up work after the tornadoes that hit Mississippi on Dec 23.

I have a MS 661, which I Love. It cuts through anything, as long as I can hold it up. I was grateful to be able to work with a mission geoup that had a BUNCH of Stihl 250/251, and after about the first week I was daily requesting to check a 250 out for myself.

I really enjoyed the work, and would like to do this sort of disaster relief agian, so I was looking into getting my own mid/small saw for cutting limbs/canopy and some of the mid sized branches, you know things less than a foot in size. One of the guys in charge of the organization introduced me to Dolmar's and I have spent some time reading up on them.

Here are the dealer realities. When there Was a Husky dealer in town they were ignoranus's and arseholes to boot, amd thus went out of business. I have a Great Stihl dealer. The nearest Dolmar dealer is an hour away.


I read some post about different sprockets on different Dolmar's being difficult to find bars/chains for, and...... it would be nice to be able to limit myself to one size of file/chain. (I realize that if I put a 20 inch bar on the smaller saws that I would in no way cut things over 12-14 inches without putting excessive strain on the powerhead, but if I was responsible, would putting a 20 inch bar be too much?


Sooo, any suggestions?


Oh yah, a local shop has a used Stihl 250 on sale for $250
 
I would stick with Stihl, especially if you have a good dealer and already have another Stihl saw. Dolmar dealers are all but non-existent here.

As for using the same chain on a 250 as a 661, the simple answer is no. The 250 runs .325 or 3/8 Picco-low profile. The 661 runs 3/8 standard (or .404).

As for the 250, I had a fleet of them once. They are rather high vibration saws. I would steer you toward a 251 for that reason. You might also consider the 026/260 or 261 which will run 3/8 standard chain like your 661 likely does. I sold off all my 025/250 saws and replaced them with 026/260 saws and never looked back. I still run and love my little 211 saw though. They are great saws and way better than the old MS210 that they replaced.
 
I would stick with Stihl, especially if you have a good dealer and already have another Stihl saw. Dolmar dealers are all but non-existent here.

As for using the same chain on a 250 as a 661, the simple answer is no. The 250 runs .325 or 3/8 Picco-low profile. The 661 runs 3/8 standard (or .404).

As for the 250, I had a fleet of them once. They are rather high vibration saws. I would steer you toward a 251 for that reason. You might also consider the 026/260 or 261 which will run 3/8 standard chain like your 661 likely does. I sold off all my 025/250 saws and replaced them with 026/260 saws and never looked back. I still run and love my little 211 saw though. They are great saws and way better than the old MS210 that they replaced.

Thanks, on Stihl's comparison PDF, I had completely overlooked the 261. Regarding the chain size, you are correct about the 3/8. It would be just one less thing to have to keep separate etc if I could use the same chain's on each saw (and slightly less expensive)

AND (even better IMOP) I could leave the 661 rigged up with the long bar, and just use the 261 for everything else.

The MS 211 lists as being 9.4 lbs, with the 261 being 10.8. Since my goal is power to weight as well as being able to hold the saw up all day long, I think the 261 a no-brainer.

Great advice, thanks.
 
Well, you will have a smaller bar on the 261, likely an 16" or 18" that can also be run on the 661 (I do not recommend it, but others here will). The best thing about one chain type is they use the same files for sharpening, and they have the same profile. Also the 261 is a huge step above the smaller non-pro saws.
 
Well, you will have a smaller bar on the 261, likely an 16" or 18" that can also be run on the 661 (I do not recommend it, but others here will). The best thing about one chain type is they use the same files for sharpening, and they have the same profile. Also the 261 is a huge step above the smaller non-pro saws.

I have to confess to being one of those operators who is clueless about the mechanics. But why would cutting a 10 inch pine tree with a 20 inch bar be terribly more difficult for the chainsaw than cutting the same tree with a 16 inch bar?
 
I have to confess to being one of those operators who is clueless about the mechanics. But why would cutting a 10 inch pine tree with a 20 inch bar be terribly more difficult for the chainsaw than cutting the same tree with a 16 inch bar?

I agree with that philosophy myself, being an engineer and from my experience. That longer bar friction alone does not make that great a difference. The real difference is when you bury the bars in wood. Most on this site are short bar fanatics though, and as such, are dedicated to running smaller B&C. We here on the west coast like our long bars. You can run a 20 inch on a 261, and they were engineered to run and oil them. Just be aware that if you bury it full length, it will likely bog, especially in hardwoods. You can also run skip chain on longer bars to compensate to reduce resistance though (which is also a west coast thing).

I run Picco/low profile on my 026 saw now with the new PS non-safety full chisel chain, and it flies through wood. Narrower kerf, less wood to cut, faster cutting. Hard to get those bars in the states though. It is 3/8, but different B&C and rims to standard 3/8 chain.
 
I agree it's nice to run the same B&C between saws. I believe the weight on the 261 is more than 10.8 as stated above. Another option if you"re looking at picco is the MS241- a pro saw running the same setup (B&C) as the 250/251 and less weight 9.9 lbs.
 
I also do disaster relief work and having a small powerful saw is indispensable. I, however always use the smallest saw possible. I'm over 50 and I'll run my 660 with a 32" bar, but prefer the Dolmar 421.
 
I don't care for the 250 or the 251..... The 250 is not really up to a lot of abuse, and the 251 is better but I still don't like it much...

I would go with a nice used 026 pro if I were you.

Or a nice 260 with Mag case.

Those are some tough saws.


The Dolmars have all been great saws that I have seen and or owned and the 421 has an awesome reputation here.
 
I don't have a lot of throttle time on a 421 but man that is a nice little saw.
It will probably be my next saw.
 
I don't care for the 250 or the 251..... The 250 is not really up to a lot of abuse, and the 251 is better but I still don't like it much...

I would go with a nice used 026 pro if I were you.

Or a nice 260 with Mag case.

Those are some tough saws.


The Dolmars have all been great saws that I have seen and or owned and the 421 has an awesome reputation here.


I do not know anything about the Stihl 026 pro. Is there a 026 that is NOT a "pro", is do you have any tips/hints/pointers on how to find a "nice one" on ebay?

How much does this 026 pro weight?

How much should I be looking at spending?
 
You will probably spend close to the cost of a new Dolmar 421 on a good used 260
 
I do not know anything about the Stihl 026 pro. Is there a 026 that is NOT a "pro", is do you have any tips/hints/pointers on how to find a "nice one" on ebay?

How much does this 026 pro weight?

How much should I be looking at spending?


The 026 pro has a few extra features different than the 026, but they are virtually identical.

Expect to pay $250-$300 for a good used one.

Don't buy on Ebay, buy on here for best results usually, and lower prices.

Most members here are good folks and wouldn't sell a piece of junk or misrepresent what they have.
 
I do not know anything about the Stihl 026 pro. Is there a 026 that is NOT a "pro", is do you have any tips/hints/pointers on how to find a "nice one" on ebay?

How much does this 026 pro weight?

How much should I be looking at spending?

There are virtually no differences between the 026 and the 260 saws. Same frame, slightly different engine (but fully interchangeable). My 026 has a newer 260 engine in it, actually. There are only 2 differences between the 026/260 and the 026/260 PRO saws: the so-called "Pro" saws have an adjustable oil pump and a decompression valve for easier starting, and the non-pro versions do not. I have never owned a PRO 026 or 260. The oil pump works fine up to 2o inches and the decomp is not needed for starting that small a saw. The oiler in the non-pro saw runs off the crank rather than the clutch, which the pro model does, so it will puddle oil some when they are left sitting at idle. Either pro or not, 026 or 260 are all fine. There are some issues with the late 026 saws and early 260 saws that have a fixed H jet carb. You want a fully adjustable carb in these saws. The early model 026 saws also have an aluminum top handle and more open muffler. The later ones have a poly carb top handle and a more choked up muffler. There are three types of tank vents and two types of air filters as well, depending on the model year. Earlier saws have a metal starter cover and later ones had a plastic starter cover. Those differences are all minor though. Some of them have a clear gas tank, and others are solid. I have seen both on all four types, and it was not consistent on any model. I prefer a clear tank, but opaque is fine.

Used 026/260 saws do not get that much respect around here. I see them anywhere from $200-300 on CL regularly. I never paid more than $225 for a used one myself. I also bought a few straight gassed and tired ones for about $100 each. From Stihl specs, the 026 weighs in at 10.4 lb. for the power head only, no gas, oil or B&C.
 
Thanks, on Stihl's comparison PDF, I had completely overlooked the 261. Regarding the chain size, you are correct about the 3/8. It would be just one less thing to have to keep separate etc if I could use the same chain's on each saw (and slightly less expensive)

AND (even better IMOP) I could leave the 661 rigged up with the long bar, and just use the 261 for everything else.

The MS 211 lists as being 9.4 lbs, with the 261 being 10.8. Since my goal is power to weight as well as being able to hold the saw up all day long, I think the 261 a no-brainer.

Great advice, thanks.

The MS261 is much heavier than that, but still the "right" saw if it has to be a Stihl.
 
The MS261 is much heavier than that, but still the "right" saw if it has to be a Stihl.

I have said before, that I know nothing about mechanics; but why does "it have to be a Stihl"? Weight and durability were really the two things I was looking for with power being the third (I have the 661 when I need power). Would it really be that difficult for a Stihl shop to work on a Dolmar?

After reading all the replies thus far, it sounds like the Dolmar weights less than 11 pounds with a B&C and gas and oil fill (Dolmar lists "net weight" while Stihl lists "powerhead weight"), and the Dolmar still has almost the power of the MS251 (which I agree does not sound like a good choice at this point), and not much less than the 261.
 
One of the benefits of dolmar is there straight forward design and ease to work on. I know if I was given any mentioned saw I would have no problem keeping and using them. If I am spending my hard earned cash the 421 is where I would put my money. I am not sure of the weights and specs exactly but the 421is not heavy but feels really solid. But for light weight I have a rear handle stihl 192. If it died tomorrow I would probably replace it with the 421.
 
The MS261 is much heavier than that, but still the "right" saw if it has to be a Stihl.
Hmm, true for the old 261. Stihl website has the "new and improved" 261 listed as..10.8 lbs and 4.1hp. I just noticed that.
 
I recently bought a Dolmar 421 and it is a very well built, impressive little saw for the price. In this case though I would have to go with a 026, 260, or 261 for the convenience of swapping bars if needed.
 

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