Firewood Saw help

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
166 and Cuttinscott are Dolmar dealers in Greenwich, NY. About 2 hrs south of me. Anytime I ever need anything I mail it, they fix it, have it back the next day. That's 2 days, however, I've only ever had 1 problem in 2 yrs with any of my Dolmars. That's cutting about 40+ full cord of wood a year, or 120+ face cord. The 7900 eats up a 460Mag, and you need to get to the 90cc saws before you'll find anything that'll touch it, yet it weighs about what the 60 and 70cc saws weigh... The 6400 will kill a 2165 and a 361 in middle sized wood. NOT IN SMALL LIMBS. But how much of your time is spent limbing a tree? bout 5 min maybe with hardwoods? Not that much, most is dropping and bucking and noodling. Umph is what you need my friend. 6400, don't look back. Try those out this weekend. I'll be over in burlington next week, or maybe this sunday if your around and I'll drive to Monkton to let ya try a few out... How bout them apples? hehehehehehe

:cheers: eh?
I'm in Monkton, VT...log in Lincoln.

Alright alright...Now it's gettin interesting. Cisco- I have no idea when I'm making it over to Plattsburg to try that Dolmar- I believe you that it rips up a pile in a hurry. I've heard that Dolmar rates their saw's HP differently than the other manufacturers, anyone else heard this? I'm worried about going Dolmar...the prices are right but I haven't run into anyone running Dolmar round here...and the dealer seems like he might be going out of biz soon...makes me nervous.

I'm gonna have to go with the 1 saw plan for now. I know that eastern hardwood needs a big saw, but I also don't feel like luggin' too much around the woods for the fellin...so it's a balancing act. Is this thinking right?

Have some time off tomorrow morning. So it's time to hit the saws. I'm gonna check out the Stihl dealer (at least give the tractor seller a chance) and look at the 361, 280, 270. I have a lot of questions about their service (30 minutes away) and the vibe system. Then I'm headed to the local guys (where the loggers go) and I'll try some HUskys & Johnnyreds. I have to say I like the look of that 2156. So Johnnyreds are just a different color, eh? No difference in quality from the Huskys?

Thanks for all the help.
 
I'm in Monkton, VT...log in Lincoln.


I'm gonna have to go with the 1 saw plan for now. I know that eastern hardwood needs a big saw, but I also don't feel like luggin' too much around the woods for the fellin...so it's a balancing act. Is this thinking right?

Have some time off tomorrow morning. So it's time to hit the saws. I'm gonna check out the Stihl dealer (at least give the tractor seller a chance) and look at the 361, 280, 270. I have a lot of questions about their service (30 minutes away) and the vibe system. Then I'm headed to the local guys (where the loggers go) and I'll try some HUskys & Johnnyreds. I have to say I like the look of that 2156. So Johnnyreds are just a different color, eh? No difference in quality from the Huskys?

Thanks for all the help.

I can't advise on your hardwoods, no experience, I think Birch would rate as a middle wood in soft, middle and hard category.

The anti vibration on the MS270/280 is perfect. Absolute no vibration what so ever, simply non existent.

I did have a bit of a problem getting used to the movement initially, I never had used a saw that had any anti vibration. I realized a while back that I don't notice it at all now. The give or movement was not bad, just felt odd to me. Someone who grew up on saws with a anti vibration system would probably not have noticed noticed.

I did query Stihl the 270/280 and pricing. They are new generation saws with an improved anti vibration system (and carburetor system is also upgraded, though I don't think mine was at the time).

When I went to see the Stihl dealer, I described my use, not what I wanted.
Being local, he knew the saws cutting capabilities in our wood.

I put it something like this.

I am going to be cutting firewood off stacked piles.
There will be little limbing involved.
Its going to be a combination birch and spruce (spruce is getting into real low grade wood for firewood, though Cottonwood and aspen are below it). Spruce is sort of ok wood, but you use a lot, two to one to Birch.

I will be cutting at least part of the time in winter, wood can be frozen as low as 0. I want a light as possible because I will be climbing in and around stacks of logs, rooting out Birch if I can get it. Piles are not neat and tidy.

Thats the sort of mission statement or cutting profile the sales guy needs.
You do need to be sure he is a wood cutter himself (mine was) so we could talk on the same level, and use his superior knowledge of the product line.

I was tickled in that he was willing to sell me an MS250 for $80 less, or the MS270 if I wanted to pay the higher price. He did not push me.

I went with the one size above what would do the job rule and got the MS270. That was a good move, at time I push it real hard.
 
Too often people advise too much saw for the job.

I live in Alaska for what thatd worth, so we can compare woods.

I got an MS270, I cut 8-10 cords of wood a year. The MS270 zips through frozen birch with no issue (and its got incredible anti vibration system).

It sounds like you need to keep weight down with all the rest you do, the MS270 should do that (again I don't know your wood and how hard it is).

MS280 is the next step up if local recommends somewhat higher (same frame saw, same weight, just more hp).

the OP and I live in the land of hardwoods... I run a 20 inch bar on a 371xp and a 16 on a 026 that is currently in pieces..here we run big saws, with little bars...
 
I run 2 jred 2165's 20" & 24"( got a great deal on saw 2 - traded for firewood) and a 2156 18" 3/8. I just recently purchased the 2156 and find it noticably lighter for running all day long,
I will let you know tomorrow what the power is like for the 2156 now that it will be running at its full potential. ....

TS:cheers:


The Dolmar 6400 is even heavier than the Husky 365, and a lot heavier than a 361 or 357xp - that's why I normally doesn't recommend it as a 60cc class saw.

Sure it has some more power as well, but not enough to compensate for all the extra weight (and bulk) - imo.
 
The Dolmar 6400 is even heavier than the Husky 365, and a lot heavier than a 361 or 357xp - that's why I normally doesn't recommend it as a 60cc class saw.

Sure it has some more power as well, but not enough to compensate for all the extra weight (and bulk) - imo.

Im pretty sure your just reading specs on this one, cause i've held them side by side, and its hard to really notice any difference between the 6400 and 365, besides being a little goofier lookin...
 
Alright, alright Cisco... Uncle! I'll go try the f)(*ing Dolmar dealer out. But I might need to saw some log here in Monkton if you feel like a drive.

Turkey Slayer, how did you get the 2156 running 3/8 and change the RPMs? I'm new to this, but that sounds like a killer combo. Let me know how it runs & cuts today!

I'll let you all know about prices & feel today!

Thanks

Difference between Jred & husky? Anyone?
 
Alright, alright Cisco... Uncle! I'll go try the f)(*ing Dolmar dealer out. But I might need to saw some log here in Monkton if you feel like a drive.

Turkey Slayer, how did you get the 2156 running 3/8 and change the RPMs? I'm new to this, but that sounds like a killer combo. Let me know how it runs & cuts today!

I'll let you all know about prices & feel today!

Thanks

Difference between Jred & husky? Anyone?

To switch a 2156 to 3/8, you need to change the sprocket ($5), and you will need a new bar and chain as well. Thats what I run on mine. There is no quality difference between the Husky's and Jreds, just the looks and the handle bar angle. Some prefer the Husky, and some prefer the Jred, but the difference is minor. The price difference is a dealer to dealer thing. One dealer that I use sells both and the Jreds are a little cheaper, but even his Husky's are cheaper than any other shop. It sounds like you have a few dealers, so shop around.
 
....I just recently purchased the 2156 and find it noticably lighter for running all day long, I am also very impressed with the power and it is just getting broke in. I actually went to my dealer today and he tached and re-adjusted the carb for 14500 rpm, so I cant wait till the morning to see what it will really do. ...

14500 on a stock 2156 sounds high - I am a bit surpriced that a dealer set it above recommended max (14000)........
 
Bought a 2159 today. I really like the MS 361, but there was no comparison in dealers. The Jonsered dealer is closer, willing to teach me what he knows and accessible. The Stihl dealer was farther and it was a showroom situation...no shop for customers to learn in. Pictures coming soon...I'll let y'all know how she cuts.

Thanks for all the help!
 
14500 on a stock 2156 sounds high - I am a bit surpriced that a dealer set it above recommended max (14000)........

Thanks for the heads up on the max rpm. I am going back to the dealer this afternoon, to get retuned for 14000.

vermontsaw - Turkey Slayer, how did you get the 2156 running 3/8 and change the RPMs? I'm new to this, but that sounds like a killer combo. Let me know how it runs & cuts today!

vermontsaw, at my dealer the 3/8 pro bar, sprocket, and chain was a $15 option. My dealer also set the carb so max rpm's was about 13000 for break-in. Than after about 10-15 tanks of fuel I took the saw back to the dealer to have the carb (high speed jet) re-ajusted for max no load rpm, which as pointed out by SawTroll he set to high (14500), but as stated above I am returning today for re-adjustment (14000) this service is provided at no charge.
Good luck with whatever you purchase. Dealer support is definately the key!

I will say that now it (2156) has been tuned up, that it really rips in the hard wood. I felled, limbed and bucked a 16" cherry and a 14" beech this morning. I am very impressed with the power of the saw as well as the weight and handling, I didnt even use the 2165, because there was no need. I really think that other than some of the large hardwoods 24" + the 2165 will most likely get very little use from now on.

Thanks again SawTroll.


TS:cheers:
 
hmph

Alright, alright Cisco... Uncle! I'll go try the f)(*ing Dolmar dealer out. But I might need to saw some log here in Monkton if you feel like a drive.

Turkey Slayer, how did you get the 2156 running 3/8 and change the RPMs? I'm new to this, but that sounds like a killer combo. Let me know how it runs & cuts today!

I'll let you all know about prices & feel today!

Thanks

Difference between Jred & husky? Anyone?

I did recommend a 440/044, but you can't really find those too often. That would be my first choice, or a 372XP. I'm just saying, stay away from 50-60cc saws. People don't cut what we do. All hardwood ALLL the time... You'll regret it if you do. They lack the nether region you need I think...

:popcorn:
 
Im pretty sure your just reading specs on this one, cause i've held them side by side, and its hard to really notice any difference between the 6400 and 365, besides being a little goofier lookin...

Independent test weights from DLG/KWF, dry powerheads;

MS361, 5.6kg
357xp, 5.9kg
365, 6.1kg
6400, 6.4kg
MS440, 6.2kg (for comparison).

5.6 vs. 6.4kg makes a lot of difference in handling of the saw.
 
Last edited:
Independent test weights from DLG/KWF, dry powerheads;

MS361, 5.6kg
357xp, 5.9kg
365, 6.1kg
6400, 6.4kg
MS440, 6.2kg (for comparison).

5.6 vs. 6.4kg makes a lot of difference in handling of the saw.

I was comparing it to the 365...thats 6.1 vs 6.4. That might as well be spanish to me anyway, im not a kilograms kinda guy....lol.
 
036 ms 360

Buy yourself a good used 036 PRO or MS360 or if you want to spend a bit more a new MS361 The best mid sise firewood saws available! 026 and 346xp great saws but to small as an all around firewood saw!
 
I don't subscribe to the one saw plan unless you are a homeowner doing periodic maintenance work around your place. How many times have you pinched a bar and needed another saw to cut it free? I know it has happened to me and people I cut with more often than I care to admit. I never head out to cut firewood without at least 2 saws. My preferred firewood getting tools of late are the Jonsered 2153 (red Husky 346XP) and a Jonsered 2171 (red Husky 372XP). The 2153 gets used for limbing and bucking up stuff under 18" or so. When the wood gets bigger I fire up the 2171 or for bigger wood the 2186. I only cut hardwood, primarily oak, cherry, maple and ash. If you plan on cutting serious piles of firewood I think you do yourself a disfavor by getting one midsize compromise saw. The old saw about jack of all trades comes to mind. Chainsaws are like golf clubs, sure you can play 19 holes with only 2 clubs in the bag but it goes much smoother if you use the right tool for the task at hand.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top