If you decide to sell some I'd be real interested in some 20" loops.
Back filing has to be the # 1 single quickest way to destroy a good file. If that's in fact what you mean?Biggest problem with new filers is not filing down while filing back. Need to keep that overhang!
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To me it looks like you are not properly holding the file at its correct height, therefor the top plate, cutting corner and the side plate are not filed correctly. The file should ride the top plate of the cutter with 1/3 of the file's height being above the top plate as you file.View attachment 529047 here one is let me know what I need to do.
If you have to but upward pressure then you set the path (channel) to low which was obvious in the first pic. In other words you 'past the point of no return' your depth is to low. Think of it as two activities; filing then sharpening. Be familiar with a depth in fractions in relation to the amount of file that is above the top plate and reconize how that feels even more so than it looks. Your starting depth may not be achievable as the chain cutters reduce without dropping a file size. Chains like some Oregon pre-ground chain have a pretty deep hook right out of the box, probably 3/4 under the top plate.View attachment 529052 here's a different technique a few strokes right on and a couple putting slight pressure upward as it filed.
7/32 is what I was using. thats what I read was correct for 3/8 chain
To me it looks like you are not properly holding the file at its correct height, therefor the top plate, cutting corner and the side plate are not filed correctly. The file should ride the top plate of the cutter with 1/3 of the file's height being above the top plate as you file.
They must run a tad smaller tooth than Oregon and others do.
That Stihl/Pferd guide is as useless as they get, unless you know nothing about proper filing of a saw chain.
Junk, scrap chains are good to practice a lot of things on. Try different things on different teeth. Then compare them to a link of new chain for reference. Once you understand what each part of the cutter does, and what you want it to look like, you can use a lot of different methods to get there. If you do not know what you are trying to achieve, you might as well hand the file to a monkey, or sharpen blindfolded.So I tried out hand filing on a 325 chain...
And proceeded to biff it real good. I'm gonna leave that alone and try it on a junk chain
I mostly grind.
1. I sharpen all the Left cutters.
2. Then I sharpen all the Right cutters.
3. Then I clean the gullets (if needed) - since, by sharpening, I have increased the length of the gullet slightly.
4. Lastly, I adjust the depth gauges (if needed), and round them back to their original profile - since, by sharpening, I have lowered the height of the cutting edges slightly, and want to gauge the depth gauge height off of the new cutter height.
You're doing it all wrong - everyone knows you must sharpen the right cutters first!
On my grinder, the Left side cutters tend to come out a bit shorter than the Right side cutters, unless very carefully centered (changes with wheel wear). So it is easier to do the Left side cutters first, then take off a little more on the Right side, then it is to do the Right side cutters first, and try to add a bit more back on to the Left side. Just me maybe.Yea I always sharpen the passenger side first. BUT I also suck at it lol
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