Input
Hi,
There is plenty of time for input. I've already passed on comments from this thread.
-MW
Hi,
There is plenty of time for input. I've already passed on comments from this thread.
-MW
Help build Tanaka's new top handle saw!
- Thread starter NTU
- Start date
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going from the drawings, i would add some plastics, looks way to ridgid ....
joking apart i hope all the plast is at least strong enough.
1st thing, the thumb area next to the on/off switch: forget it.
It wil serve 1 individual right but be a pain for another.
Imagine your natural comfort hand and thumb position is exactly on the edge of this 'area' and hold it a couple of hours.
Or you are rubbing against this edge all the time with your thumb...
I would ditch the thing immediately.
2nd thing: the honeycomb spaceage design: dust gets trapped between the grid and what lays behind. Not always plus this airy design
3rd thing: it looks as if the side safety brake bar (what do you call it?) will obstruct when taking the saw from sideways. You not always grab it from the top.
4th thing: the lock for the air filter: make it flat it will catch somewhere and eventually break or open
I'm only storming, no offence intended. Evaluating prototypes is part of my job (other industry) and i quite enjoy it.
As already said above, the drawings look quite 'ready'.
If you wonder, yes i have experience with top handle saws.
joking apart i hope all the plast is at least strong enough.
1st thing, the thumb area next to the on/off switch: forget it.
It wil serve 1 individual right but be a pain for another.
Imagine your natural comfort hand and thumb position is exactly on the edge of this 'area' and hold it a couple of hours.
Or you are rubbing against this edge all the time with your thumb...
I would ditch the thing immediately.
2nd thing: the honeycomb spaceage design: dust gets trapped between the grid and what lays behind. Not always plus this airy design
3rd thing: it looks as if the side safety brake bar (what do you call it?) will obstruct when taking the saw from sideways. You not always grab it from the top.
4th thing: the lock for the air filter: make it flat it will catch somewhere and eventually break or open
I'm only storming, no offence intended. Evaluating prototypes is part of my job (other industry) and i quite enjoy it.
As already said above, the drawings look quite 'ready'.
If you wonder, yes i have experience with top handle saws.
scotclayshooter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Its always a nice feature that you can take it apart with just a t27 torx like the Dolmars and Stihls different sized fateners can be a pain!
The choke switch is something your hopefully only going to use once a day so could be recessed in a little more
Looks nice!
The choke switch is something your hopefully only going to use once a day so could be recessed in a little more
Looks nice!
ericjeeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
ok, cant resist
1 more thing
the fill openings should not be level with the surrounding plastic. If you spill all the dust just flows into the tanks. Make it stick out a couple of mm and make sure the area around drains spillage off immediately.
Had it more than once when turning a saw after filling the spillage is catapulted on my legs. (should not spill in the first place i know)
also this recessed filler cap design wories me a bit, how easy is it to open the filler caps. are you not pinching your fingers between housing and cap? can it be opened wearing gloves? etc Would it not just be easier to use the volume as tank and put the filler caps on the outside?
Tanks in transparent plastic covered by some more fancy honeycomb so you actually see what is in the tank.
I do agree with the 1 size bolts/screws etc. Obvious.
Design makes me think of the series of Hitachi drills and hammers they launched a couple of years ago. Ergo design didnt bring anything in real life but it didnt harm either.
1 more thing
the fill openings should not be level with the surrounding plastic. If you spill all the dust just flows into the tanks. Make it stick out a couple of mm and make sure the area around drains spillage off immediately.
Had it more than once when turning a saw after filling the spillage is catapulted on my legs. (should not spill in the first place i know)
also this recessed filler cap design wories me a bit, how easy is it to open the filler caps. are you not pinching your fingers between housing and cap? can it be opened wearing gloves? etc Would it not just be easier to use the volume as tank and put the filler caps on the outside?
Tanks in transparent plastic covered by some more fancy honeycomb so you actually see what is in the tank.
I do agree with the 1 size bolts/screws etc. Obvious.
Design makes me think of the series of Hitachi drills and hammers they launched a couple of years ago. Ergo design didnt bring anything in real life but it didnt harm either.
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
I vote NO on the thumb rest. Your thumb should be part of your grip.
Also make it so that an occasional left hand grip will not be a problem.
Also make it so that an occasional left hand grip will not be a problem.
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
They used to back in 83 weighed like a feather awesome little
8 month saw and very cheap, just use and scrap buy another
oh the good ole days!
top handle
It looks as if you can use it either way with your thumb on the rest or off. I would say get rid of the small pull cord handle, to small like the echo 330t.
Also go with bigger bar bolts 1/2 inch or 13mm, that way you can use the same scrench as the bigger saws.
If it is possible, have a unrestricted muffler. Im sure thEPA could look past this little design idea.
Are tanaka and echo sister companies?
It looks as if you can use it either way with your thumb on the rest or off. I would say get rid of the small pull cord handle, to small like the echo 330t.
Also go with bigger bar bolts 1/2 inch or 13mm, that way you can use the same scrench as the bigger saws.
If it is possible, have a unrestricted muffler. Im sure thEPA could look past this little design idea.
Are tanaka and echo sister companies?
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
+1 on the caps look a little hard to access.
+1 on the scrench compatibility.
The dogs look a little shrouded but that could just be the image.
I prefer an inboard clutch but not a deal breaker if it is outboard (like my 200T).
I think most everyone will agree that a rim sprocket is preferred over a spur sprocket.
The wrap part of the handle on left side seems far back. Although too hard to say just by looking, you'll have to do hands on testing to get the bar locations in tune with the balance of the saw.
The rear part of the top handle angles up, make sure it does not interfere with free wrist and arm movement in odd reach situations.
Minimize the nooks and crannies where oil and dust can collect.
Drop a few of them from 15-20' and see how they do. Price out the replacement costs for those parts. Redesign them if possible to make them cheaper to replace, i.e. sacrificial parts.
Style wise it looks like y'all want it to look mean, but it sounds like it will be a low power saw. I'd prefer something less flashy and more business. I always feel like the highly stylized products spend more money making it look good while sacrificing in functional ways.
+1 on the scrench compatibility.
The dogs look a little shrouded but that could just be the image.
I prefer an inboard clutch but not a deal breaker if it is outboard (like my 200T).
I think most everyone will agree that a rim sprocket is preferred over a spur sprocket.
The wrap part of the handle on left side seems far back. Although too hard to say just by looking, you'll have to do hands on testing to get the bar locations in tune with the balance of the saw.
The rear part of the top handle angles up, make sure it does not interfere with free wrist and arm movement in odd reach situations.
Minimize the nooks and crannies where oil and dust can collect.
Drop a few of them from 15-20' and see how they do. Price out the replacement costs for those parts. Redesign them if possible to make them cheaper to replace, i.e. sacrificial parts.
Style wise it looks like y'all want it to look mean, but it sounds like it will be a low power saw. I'd prefer something less flashy and more business. I always feel like the highly stylized products spend more money making it look good while sacrificing in functional ways.
romeo
Addicted to ArboristSite
You are always starting top handle saws in funky places. When you design the ignition module, make in run in a closed and open loop type system. When the saw is off and in "open loop", have it retard the ignition to around 5 degrees BTDC. Once the saw starts, it switches to the "closed loop cycle" and advances the timing to 27 deg. BTDC (or whatever degree of timing you see fit to run your saw). You would end up with a saw you could start with your teeth if you had to.
A loop built into the back handle wouldnt be a bad idea either. Maybe an air filter that is accessable without tools.
A loop built into the back handle wouldnt be a bad idea either. Maybe an air filter that is accessable without tools.
Here it is - Finally a REAL photo!
Hi,
Here is the first look at a couple of photos of the soon-to-be-announced Tanaka TCS-3301PFS chain saw. Specs:
TCS-3301PFS
“Inspire” Design Top Handle Chain Saw
(Replaces ECS-3301)
• 32 cc, 1.6 h.p. PureFire® Engine
• Non-slip Elastomer Grip
• S-Start
• Auto Choke Return
• Side Access Chain Tensioner
• Retractable Lanyard Ring
• Two Year Commercial Warranty /
Three Year Consumer Warranty
• $299.99 (Available for Shipments 12/08)
This model is defined by its revolutionary honeycomb-shaped, plastic outer housings which are manufactured with PA6 GF30 (Polyamide 6, Glass Fiber 30%). This material features outstanding strength and rigidity and is more than twice as strong as similar products using ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) plastic housings.
I will be looking for field testers when they arrive in late November.
-MW
Hi,
Here is the first look at a couple of photos of the soon-to-be-announced Tanaka TCS-3301PFS chain saw. Specs:
TCS-3301PFS
“Inspire” Design Top Handle Chain Saw
(Replaces ECS-3301)
• 32 cc, 1.6 h.p. PureFire® Engine
• Non-slip Elastomer Grip
• S-Start
• Auto Choke Return
• Side Access Chain Tensioner
• Retractable Lanyard Ring
• Two Year Commercial Warranty /
Three Year Consumer Warranty
• $299.99 (Available for Shipments 12/08)
This model is defined by its revolutionary honeycomb-shaped, plastic outer housings which are manufactured with PA6 GF30 (Polyamide 6, Glass Fiber 30%). This material features outstanding strength and rigidity and is more than twice as strong as similar products using ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) plastic housings.
I will be looking for field testers when they arrive in late November.
-MW
Last edited:
sawinredneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Doesn't look to bad. I like the off switch position. The chain brake is out of the way, but functional.
Whats the weight?
Whats the weight?
JohnL
Addicted to ArboristSite
How does one qualify to be a field tester? How does that program work?
gekko
ArboristSite Operative
i see it has two caps on the starter side for fuel and bar oil? but what is the cap on the back of it?
sawinredneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Seems a bit on the heavy side as well.
That should run close powerwise to a 192T at 7.2 pounds.
That should run close powerwise to a 192T at 7.2 pounds.
